New project, but missing VIN plate

Andover Norton's listing has

06.0482
REAR BRAKE CABLE for 1968 to 1974 Commando 750 850

So only one cable in the Commando lifetime with a rear drum brake, so your new one is wrong. I get my cables made to either match a sample or to my own dimensions such as when I added rearsets locally but I would guess the UK has a lot more local cable makers than Austria. From past experience cables are a minefield hence why I get them made locally. Your cable was made for Emgo a parts distributor, any stockist of Emgo will send you the same wrong cable.

Rear brake cable solved by buying a better one that was the correct length (about 1cm shorter outer). Next problem was the clutch cable - I bought what I thought was a standard one from AN with 46" outer, but it was too short, even though I don't have high rise bars or anything non-standard. Bought 51" version which works though must have a slightly longer inner, as the adjuster on the handle bar needs screwed out a couple of cm to stake up the slack.

Now to my next problem: I bought a brand new centre stand with fittings. The holes in the cradle are not big enough for the shouldered bush. I started filing one but gave up as there is quite a difference - maybe 1mm to file all round and the risk of ending up with an oval is quite high.

Should I just skip the bush and tighten up the bolts? There will be a bit of play I guess but should be useable. Or is there a better solution?

Were the holes in the cradle at some point enlarged to accept the bush?

The holes were enlarged for the stepped bushes, running with just the bolts will result in oval holes so get drilling or use a dremel after marking out a round circle to aim for.

Note that the stand bolt heads should be on the inside or the shank of the left hand bolt is liable to catch the spring each time the stand is used if the bolt is fitted from the outside.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/204/engine-mountings-head-steady-centre-stand

kommando said:

The holes were enlarged for the stepped bushes, running with just the bolts will result in oval holes so get drilling or use a dremel after marking out a round circle to aim for.

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Would be so easy if the motor wasn't already in the frame. Looks like only a round file will get access, so it'll be lengthy process

The stepped pivot bushes were intended to be used with the later cradles although it can be a good idea to fit them to the earlier cradles.

Note to self: on next project test mount the centre stand before mounting the engine plates!

So I spent 2 days with a round file and a dremel enlarging the holes, not quite in a circular fashion. Especially the left hand side is hard to get to without removing the primary chain case (which I didn't do).

If I put a washer on each end, there is not enough thread to get the nuts on. But it looks like there is plenty space to put one of the washers between the plates and the stand. Would that be the correct way, with the second washer next the nut on the outside?

Any tips for fitting the spring would be appreciated too...

No, that's not right, you only fit one spacer on each side. If you've filed out the holes then you use the stepped spacer with the larger diameter on the outside inside the stand hole; the other spacer isn't used, they are for when you don't open out the holes.
Washers go under the nuts and bolt heads. You need the spring to pass the bolt head without scraping or it will probably break eventually.

GraemeH said:

Any tips for fitting the spring would be appreciated too...

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I just heave it with a spring fitting tool.

L.A.B. said:

No, that's not right, you only fit one spacer on each side. If you've filed out the holes then you use the stepped spacer with the larger diameter on the outside inside the stand hole; the other spacer isn't used, they are for when you don't open out the holes.

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Damned - I misunderstood. I could have saved myself all that effort and simply used the non-shouldered spacers

The stepped bush is supposed to reduce wear of the cradle hole so it is probably the better option over the original bolt hole.

Ran out to buy a spring puller. Job done. Thanks for all the tips.

On to my next lesson to be learned: I read that I should anneal the oil seals for the banjo filter. Oops, a bit too much heat...

GraemeH said:

On to my next lesson to be learned: I read that I should anneal the oil seals for the banjo filter. Oops, a bit too much heat...

View attachment 124113

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I smear all sealing washer with a light coat of Loctite 518.

Life is so much easier.

Dowty washers work well here, no need for annealing when doing an oil change and removing the sludge from the bottom of the tank.

Dowty Washers

M26 for the oil tank banjo, 2 off per tank.

M30 for the sump plug, 1 off per sump plug.

Note there is no iso standard for Dowty washers so sizing varies by maker.