New product?
- Thread starter prmurat
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the trouble is NOT the prime on assembly of the oil lines. A Norton oil pump has more than one place that they leak through when the engine is not running and that is where the trouble is along with NOT being SUBMERGED, WHEN it get's an air pocket in it IT WILL NOT reprime its self . a friend lost one engine when this happened to him
" I rode the bike about 30 miles and stopped at the store. I came out and started on my way and did not get far from the store and it went BANG" we tore the remains down and it had ran with NO oil pressure. we inspected EVERYTHING in the lube system with nothing being found wrong .
yes he had a anti sump valve. in conversation with another gentleman with one of these bodges he had the exact same thing happen BUT fortunately he had an oil pressure gauge and caught it before it went BANG. he took the lines apart and reprimed it and was on his way so yes I don't have any use for this piece of poor engineering.
Like I stated UNLESS THE PUMP IS SUBMERGED IT CAN LOSE PRIME end of story!!!!
PS
I have never worked on a velo and don't care how they did there BODGE
" I rode the bike about 30 miles and stopped at the store. I came out and started on my way and did not get far from the store and it went BANG" we tore the remains down and it had ran with NO oil pressure. we inspected EVERYTHING in the lube system with nothing being found wrong .
yes he had a anti sump valve. in conversation with another gentleman with one of these bodges he had the exact same thing happen BUT fortunately he had an oil pressure gauge and caught it before it went BANG. he took the lines apart and reprimed it and was on his way so yes I don't have any use for this piece of poor engineering.
Like I stated UNLESS THE PUMP IS SUBMERGED IT CAN LOSE PRIME end of story!!!!
PS
I have never worked on a velo and don't care how they did there BODGE
Bernhard said:This is the reason why on the Velo 350/500 with the spring loaded ball valve you have to prime the oil feed pipe with oil before attaching it ton the oil tank-to eliminate the air locks.....simple :!:
rvich
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Great thread here guys. This is what I have learned:
The new sump plug has a magnet in it which is to pick up metal, not stop oil from draining into the sump.
There is absolutely no way that Valvers and Sumpers are going to agree on the topic of restriction valves in oil lines.
Russ
The new sump plug has a magnet in it which is to pick up metal, not stop oil from draining into the sump.
There is absolutely no way that Valvers and Sumpers are going to agree on the topic of restriction valves in oil lines.
Russ
Do the MkIII or Nortec valves work? They are downstream of the pump and if they did fail wouldn't they just stay open? I got a CNW valve last fall and it's been sitting on my desk in the bag. I've just had a vague uneasiness about putting it on. The Nortec mod costs the same as the valve, but you have to ship the cover and and the pump.
I like the idea of the New Product because the drain plug is steel on steel so it's less likely that you'll strip the threads on the case. Been there, a sickening feeling when you feel the threads let go. A Timesert might be worth considering if you have the cases apart and your OCD meds aren't working anymore.
http://amr-of-tucson.com/nortech.html
I like the idea of the New Product because the drain plug is steel on steel so it's less likely that you'll strip the threads on the case. Been there, a sickening feeling when you feel the threads let go. A Timesert might be worth considering if you have the cases apart and your OCD meds aren't working anymore.
http://amr-of-tucson.com/nortech.html
Bob
the nortec mod does work to an extent and IMHO IS the better way to approach the issue as you are using oil pressure to open it instead of suction. The MK3 does not work all that well as they have issues with the piston sticking in the cover BUT all it will do when this happens is to wet sump. to change to the MK3 cover is more than JUST a cover change as the oil pump and pump to cover seal are also different. The nortec does not have an issue with sticking but is not 100% going to stop the wet sumping , more like 95%.
the nortec mod does work to an extent and IMHO IS the better way to approach the issue as you are using oil pressure to open it instead of suction. The MK3 does not work all that well as they have issues with the piston sticking in the cover BUT all it will do when this happens is to wet sump. to change to the MK3 cover is more than JUST a cover change as the oil pump and pump to cover seal are also different. The nortec does not have an issue with sticking but is not 100% going to stop the wet sumping , more like 95%.
rpatton said:
Regarding this new part??? My 73 850 has 2 plugs in the crank case, the large one with the screen then in front of that a small one. When I have to drain, I just pull the small one. Did the older commandos not have the small drain plug fitted???
And honestly, I don't have to drain it that often. I use the TDC method mentioned here and it works at least 80% of the time. When I have to put it away for up to 3 months at a time, I just use the kicker to position the pistons as close to TDC as I can determine by using he kicker. That seems to do the trick as most of the time, before I take it our for a ride, I check the oil tank and the oil is still all there
And honestly, I don't have to drain it that often. I use the TDC method mentioned here and it works at least 80% of the time. When I have to put it away for up to 3 months at a time, I just use the kicker to position the pistons as close to TDC as I can determine by using he kicker. That seems to do the trick as most of the time, before I take it our for a ride, I check the oil tank and the oil is still all there
elefantrider
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L.A.B. said:
Looks like there are a few different versions of this part. Which to choose?
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/magnetic ... e_1198.htm
elefantrider
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Comparison still a valid one. I'm sure the mods can rename this thread Magnetic drain plug if they wish.
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