New Norsa

Seriously, would you guys risk your life in a partially collapsed building to retrieve an old rusty chassis?

I did. Indiana Jones I am not.

New Norsa


New Norsa


New Norsa


Understandably the City of Lockport condemned the building and closed it down. The building is still there and to the best of my knowlege the contents are intact.

I regret that I was able to save but one chassis. :(
 
Lots of interesting junk in that building! Lucky for me I don't know where it is!
 
Looks jolly spiffin`- how does it bloody go? - & as hammerhand as an Atlas?
Weigh,& please inc' front/rear % [X2 bathroom scales - or one scale set & a plank of the same depth - will do].
 
+ 1
rvich said:
Lots of interesting junk in that building! Lucky for me I don't know where it is!
My wife would give up on me if I brought more home at this time. Cj
 
Indeed the crankshaft was build by Offset cranks and it was balanced to a balance factor of 50%. I am unclear what the 50% represents but the balance company, Garland, in Toronto knew all about it.

Notice that the crank has a smaller flywheel than stock. It is some four pounds lighter than stock. This does make a difference as the bike does not tractor away from a stoplight as does a stock engine. It does take a little buzz of the engine to get it underway. Once underway this motor spins up much faster than stock.

New Norsa
 
Nice build, more photos please :D


I was going to do a Norsa with an A10 frame I had until I saw how bad the frame was ,(accident-ed and bent in a couple of different places). Was going to use the cradle mounted Norton swingarm, would have made a nice cruiser, found a P11 frame...
 
I was looking at the picture in the first post again...what do you have for a rear brake? Couldn't see very clearly, is it cast into or part of the rear drive sprocket? Cj
 
cjandme said:
I was looking at the picture in the first post again...what do you have for a rear brake? Couldn't see very clearly, is it cast into or part of the rear drive sprocket? Cj

Looks like a typical BSA rear hub/sprocket setup, very similar to Triumphs. The actual hub is a spool.
 
Rear Wheel

Here is the rear wheel underconstruction. The rim is from a 69 sportster, an Australian item, I like to use it as it is a WM4 and allows me to use a bigger tire. The hub is a stock BSA "crinkle hub" . Always have like the clever symetrical design which allows the use of 40 identical straight pull spokes. It was a little tricky matching up the hub to the spoke pattern of the Sportster. Central Wheel made the stainless spokes. If you lace up a conical rear hub you have four different spoke lengths. The brake drum is a new Goldstar reproduction.

A laser was used to get the centre line of the bike and the rear rim was laced to the centre line. The bike goes down the road in a straight line with the wheels in alignement.

New Norsa
 
Here is a pic of the adapter plates that mate the Commando power train to the BSA A10 frame. Looks a little weird but it does hold the motor and transmission securely in place. Never was a fan of the Norton cradle which grabbed the motor in three places at the back of the engine. Have you ever seen an oval hole engine mount?

I almost graduated from the school of "Looks About Right Engineering" and this was my solution to the design problem. Yes it does make the servicing of the motor difficult, for example, I would have to pull the motor to do a head gasket change. The A10 frame is unaltered and the engine and the transmission are held firmly in alignment. The transmission mounting bosses were shortened by 12mm to bring the transmission sprocket into alignment with the rear sprocket.

New Norsa


New Norsa
 
Beautiful bike.....

There are no issues with the transmission sitting in that angle and the gear oil properly bathing the gearsets?

Again, Beautiful

Happy motoring


Slydog
 
slydog28001 said:
Beautiful bike.....

There are no issues with the transmission sitting in that angle and the gear oil properly bathing the gearsets?

Again, Beautiful

Happy motoring


Slydog

The "hybrids" (also called mongrels by some owners) that Norton/Matchless produced had the gearbox at an angle too, so I guess it would be OK.

Jean
 
So that rear wheel is a'Q.D.', which leaves the brake/chain undisturbed by hub/wheel removal?
A more practical, if not as aesthetically attractive alternative to the Manx inspired 'conical hub' alloy unit from `71-74.
 
This special had more than its share of troubles, it was a very difficult birth. Once the correctly programed Power Arc showed up the bike ran. The modified Boyer ignition is just not up to running a 270. The bike FINALLY ran, the pistons were pistoning, the valves were valving, and all those funny bits in there were rotating. Unfortunately the head gasket was not gasketing. Clearly there is more to this annealing process. Got a replacement from Gaskets Unlimited and installed it after doing the annealing treatment - carefully.

On this bike it is not possible to just pull the head, it is major surgery, removal of the primary, transmission and engine to get the head off.

The replacement gasket was installed and everything reassembled. Finally it runs. (notice I get the bike running in time for winter storage) :D

New Norsa


Vibration Levels

I was not expected turbine smooth, and in fairness I have ridden a rubber mounted 270 and did not feel any vibration. This solidly mounted engine does buzz. I can ride the bike for a maximum of two hours in a stretch. It seems the vibration is different than a solidly mounted 360 and occurs at different revs. There is less in the pegs and the seat but more in the handlebars, and it does get smoother the faster it goes. It has not been wide open yet so I do not know about vibration levels over 5K.

Performance

These 270's are very quick to rev up so it is quicker off the line and through the gears. This engine configuration is happiest at freeway speeds. However, my riding style is that I like to plonk along back country roads pulling 2k at forty to 50 mph which this engine does not like to do. I am sure it would be happier on the racetrack than on the street.

New Norsa


Anyway it is off to the Dyno to determine the best engine settings.
 
Yes I did the whole retorque procedure several times. This engine has aluminium barrels which I thought was the source of the problem. Turns out when annealing the gasket it is possible to leave a hard spot in the copper and this will throw off the torque as there is a soft spot immediately adjacent. The gasket was actually floppy when it was installed. I used that dental floss procedure (thank you Jim ) and there are no oil leaks
 
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