New Member with 1970 Commando

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I've owned my norton since I was 19 years old, when widespread knowlege of adding a reed valve breather to the crankcase was not well known. Maybe some really smart people did this on their bikes, but as I recall bike rebuilders considered it a badge of honor to rebuild a parallel twin of any brand without having leaks... My bike always had some amount of leakage prior to adding a reed valve breather. It's fair to say that the design of the commando is greatly improved by the addition of a reed valve to deal with crankcase pressure causing oil leaks.

IF you drilled any holes into the crankcase from the timing side, I would suggest cleaning the screen in the sump, run the bike for 5 minutes, then change the oil (clean the sump screen again) then take it for a 20 minute ride and change the oil YET again. Even with a vacuum pulling chips away from your drill, you will get some aluminum flakes and dust entering your crankcase. After your second oil change, run the bike and inspect the oil for metalic appearance... If you have any doubts, change it again!@
 
o0norton0o said:
I've owned my norton since I was 19 years old, when widespread knowlege of adding a reed valve breather to the crankcase was not well known. Maybe some really smart people did this on their bikes, but as I recall bike rebuilders considered it a badge of honor to rebuild a parallel twin of any brand without having leaks... My bike always had some amount of leakage prior to adding a reed valve breather. It's fair to say that the design of the commando is greatly improved by the addition of a reed valve to deal with crankcase pressure causing oil leaks.

IF you drilled any holes into the crankcase from the timing side, I would suggest cleaning the screen in the sump, run the bike for 5 minutes, then change the oil (clean the sump screen again) then take it for a 20 minute ride and change the oil YET again. Even with a vacuum pulling chips away from your drill, you will get some aluminum flakes and dust entering your crankcase. After your second oil change, run the bike and inspect the oil for metalic appearance... If you have any doubts, change it again!@

Perhaps this type of oil tank would be useful in these circumstances? :wink: Never mind the rest of the bike, just check 35-40 seconds in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... 6WPZbUr7fg
Tommy
 
Mystery part

I came across the brochure for the 70 "S"
By closely looking at the centerfold picture I spotted this part:
New Member with 1970 Commando


Is it a bracket to keep the stop light cables out of the rear chain?
Looks like a metal strip with a rubber grommet at the end.
Can´t find the part in any parts list.
Anybody has this part on their early Commandos?
 
Thanks!
Mystery solved!
Will be included in my next order for Joe Seifert..
 
while you're there near the foot lever add a brake lever safety spring. I don't know if it's a stock item on later bikes, but yours doesn't have one (probably) If your rear brake cable becomes dislodged, then there's nothing to stop the brake's foot lever from dropping straight down and hitting the pavement...

Part # 06-4172

and it looks like this:
New Member with 1970 Commando
 
IWhen turning on the headlight I noticed the high beam warning light already glowing a bit when
the dip beam is on. It gets brighter when I switch to high beam.
I guess it should only glow when using the high beam?

Dip beam/low beam:
New Member with 1970 Commando


High beam:

New Member with 1970 Commando


Head lamp wiring:

New Member with 1970 Commando




I wired the Triconsul switch and the headlight according to the 1970 wiring diagram.
White/blue comes from the switch and goes to the bulb holder and also to the warning light ( top right on the pic).
Red is positive earth.
The left warning light is for the indicators which are mandatory in good old Germany..
I have a H4 insert in my headlight. Is this the course of the phenomenon?
 
rivera said:
New Member with 1970 Commando


I have a H4 insert in my headlight. Is this the course of the phenomenon?


Yes, I think so, the photo shows the blue/white and red connections at the headlamp plug need to be swapped over.


New Member with 1970 Commando


"Common" = Red for positive earth.
 
When your drawing is a "view from behind" you are right.
See my turned picture:
New Member with 1970 Commando


Blue/red is on top and red and white/blue are switched. But it works so far. :!:
 
rivera said:
Blue/red is on top and red and white/blue are switched. But it works so far. :!:

Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.
 
L.A.B. said:
Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.

Because half of the energy goes to the warning light.. :lol:

Thanks for the tip ! Will change it tomorrow!
 
rivera said:
L.A.B. said:
Yes, the headlight will work with the wires connected as shown but one beam will not be as bright as it should be.

Because half of the engery goes to the warning light.. :lol:

Not exactly, with the wires connected as they are, the current from one beam filament must pass through the other filament in order to get to 'earth'.
 
This morning I switched the cables- works perfectly! Got blinded by the light!
Thanks for the hint!
 
And we got colour!
First layer of Glasurit Metalflake Royalblue from a 27 year old can!

New Member with 1970 Commando


New Member with 1970 Commando


Now several layers of clear cote with sanding in between.
 
A friend in Seattle had an MGB which had oil leaks frequently. When he asked an MGB specialist shop what he needed to do to fix it, they replied "Of course it leaks oil - it's British".
 
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