New disc brake slider

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Could the old stay be just be bent or is there significant length added with the splice?
 
I'd opt for a 4 pot and keep the stock stay. I've already refinished / powder coated mine and don't want to cut it up. I know I could find a used one somewhere, but the effort to locate, to cut (accuratly) and to weld would be a p.i.t.a. that would be more of an effort than just spending a few mor $ for a purpose built part. edit... instead of welding.. how aout industrial epoxy? i.e. J.B. Weld or stronger.
Last Norton I had I installed a Norman White dual set up and bending the stay was not an attractive bit. It was difficult to ge l/r side symetry and the bend looked awful.

For me a 4 pot with the stock stay.


JD
 
I think most kits and aftermarket bits are best if drop in. Look at Fullauto head
JS rods and pistons. Not all of us have the skill or shop to deal with all that much.
Id think that epoxy would do though.
 
"I think most kits and aftermarket bits are best if drop in. Look at Fullauto head
JS rods and pistons. Not all of us have the skill or shop to deal with all that much.
Id think that epoxy would do though." I appreciate the opinions, its obvious my brake kit will not suit everyone.
there isnt enough length to bend the existing stay,
apart from painting, its a 10min job to cut, fit new piece and weld. consider the time you will spend fitting the new fork slider which is a "drop in affair"
 
I think this should be a do-able solution to the issue of retaining a rear mudguard-stay when fitting a modern caliper (most photos I have seen of these mods simply omit the rear stay) The stay along with the mudguard also acts as a fork brace so I think it is useful to have both. If someone can't operate a hacksaw they should get someone else to work on their bike.
 
" If someone can't operate a hacksaw they should get someone else to work on their bike."
Apparently they do Dave. they obviously come from a different school of British bike ownership than I do.
 
Could that 'school' be one that does not hold a high regard for passe' `90s gimmicks [6 piston cantilever mount calipers]?
 
Don, as I have expressed an interest in your upgrade, the fender stay is not an issue on mine due to it's intended use, there is a 'bobbed' guard I cut from a damaged full fender, so no stays needed.
Just my 2 bobs worth
Regards Mike
 
second opinion required, If I was to produce a purpose built fender stay so there would be no hi tech, major workshops needed to modify my previous suggestion, would fitting a purpose built fender stay be to much of a head ache for Norton owners, it would mean unbolting the existing fender stay and replacing it with the one supplied. I could even supply instructions on how to undo the bolts, and do them back up again,
This opinion request is serious as I have been in discussions with a machine shop to produce the purpose built fender, it will add extra cost to the brake kit which I had been trying to avoid, I guess its a case of , if you cant doit yourself then you pay.
 
Now you are getting it, thats the American way - cut the deal/cash & carry/done & dusted... its all good.
 
I run mine without the stay and would probably leave it that way with your system, but I can imagine more people would go for a ready-made stay. I have not been a fan of the big loop I have seen in the stay on the CNW setup, so likewise I would go without a stay or use a different fender if I went with their kit. Good luck.
 
Thanks fellas for the opinions, I'm getting a quote to manufacture the stay, if that goes ahead then that would be an option for the brake kit, no point including it if its of no use, and save a few bucks as well,
 
would a stay that mounted to the caliper be a more aesthetically pleasing option?
 
possibly, but whatever the decision is there is always going to be objections, so I'll just go with what I think is the best option and prospective buyers can choose whether my product suits them or not.
 
Update, slowly getting there, still working on slider machining, will come with steel brake pipe, fittings and a new bracket which holds the bulkhead fitting, it will be the same but 2" taller to make for a neat bend pipe.
not shown is the new lower fender stay, other than that, whats in the pic is what will be supplied, caliper will
be either gold silver or black, when , a little while yet but getting closer.
New disc brake slider
 
Hi Don looking good, not date on pic , camera may need an edit????
When do you expect first ones to be ready to ship?
Regards Mike
 
that pic was taken today Jan 1, I'll know more this week with machine shop updates, but probably 2 mths .
its the fiddly bits that are gonna take time, fender stay, bulkhead fitting bracket , fittings.
 
jeffdavison said:
For me a 4 pot with the stock stay.
Click to expand...

The 6 piston caliper as posted looks to be a 90 mm bolt centre item at the mounting pads.
There are a few options then.

Suzuki TL1000S 4 piston caliper (27 mm / 30 mm OD pistons)
Early GSXR1100 or Bandit 4 piston caliper (30 mm / 34 mm OD pistons = same as the Brembo P4 caliper)
Best 6 piston caliper Nissin if you can find one.
Next best Suzuki Hayabusa to 2007 with the Suzuki TL1000R 6 piston caliper last.

These days modern radial master cylinders make a big difference also.
 
plenty of 4 and 6 piston calipers to choose from but not much good if you dont have the slider to bolt them to, unless you fit some unsightly adaptor plate.
All these calipers mentioned above are as only as good as the mastercylinder driving them, for example the
standard Norton Caliper works great as long as you sleeve the Mastercylinder to 1/2" and use a stainless/teflon hose.
 
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