need info on TTI gearbox

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seattle##gs

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I ran into some questions while installing a TTI gb.

Does it use a stock Norton clutch cable? It looks like I might have to make my own. It requires an adjuster to screw into the gearbox, where do I find this?

The stock Norton kickstart lever is very difficult to fit. It looks like I have to spread the thing apart more than normal to fit it on. Is this normal?

FITTING THE CLUTCH........to make the clutch line up with the engine sprocket requires a spacer the thickness of the stock stepped spacer. Because the TTI shaft does not use the usual circlip which way does this stock spacer fit on? Or does it matter?
 
I have had a TTI for quite some time and I cannot say where my entry bit for the clutch cable came from but I think it is a stock Norton piece.
My kicker is a late model AN piece no problem fitting. A tight fit is a good thing. I did use a hardened bolt and nut to secure it and torqued it right home.
Clutch is a BNR belt so cannot help you there.
You know you could ring Bruce up and ask...
 
Hi Seattle
The clutch cable fitting is Dommi/Manx.
Mine is a race box but I can't believe the kick start shaft would be anything but spot on.
I also use a Maney belt drive which all lined up?
Fast Eddie's played with this on his road bike. I'm sure he will chime in.
 
Yes Chris, I have used a Maney belt, and a cNw belt kit, and both lined up perfectly without need of a spacer.

I’m glad you remembered the clutch cable details, I had completely forgotten what I used!

But I also struggled with the kick start shaft issue, but then again I’ve not used a brand new Norton one so I’m not comparing apples with apples when comparing a new TTI shaft to an old used Norton shaft.
 
I use a standard length Commando clutch cable for my TTI box, this is on my race bike and it has clip on bars and the cable fits fine.
Instead of using an adjuster on the gearbox , I just used the lock nut from a clutch lever adjuster as it has a split in it and slides in after the cable is installed and then any cable adjustment can be done either through the diaphragm adjuster on the clutch rod end and/or at the lever.
No need for the mainsheet spacer as FS indicated
Mine is a Maney belt drive.
regards mike
 
I emailed TTI about the spacing problem, it's possible that they made this shaft to only run the belt drive therefor chain alignment would not be a problem. Awaiting their answer.
I will make my own cable as soon as I can find the right adjuster piece.
The kickstart lever it seems will fit. It is brand new and I did not want to spread it that far but that's the way it goes.
When TTI answers I will add their response.
 
I fitted a clutch cable to a TTI box 3 years ago. 5 speed HD without kick start. Age related memory problems. But I'm quite certain that I used an ordinary Venhill featherlight cable for an Atlas. With the usual 1/4x26 cycle thread adjuster at the gearbox. But I have a vague memory of having to change the nipple at the lever. As it didn't fit the Manx clutch lever. Anyhow it was not any big problem worth remembering. Like the milling of the gearbox case so not to hit the frame tube. And making a rear pointing gear lever.
The standard Manx clutch fitted straight on. Though I had to shim out the engine sprocket circa .020 to line up. Had to tighten the clutch centre nut more than the TTI recommended torque as the clutch came loose on a test run. No problem after that.
 
Mike40M said:
Had to tighten the clutch centre nut more than the TTI recommended torque as the clutch came loose on a test run. No problem after that.
Click to expand...
What is the recommended TTi torque for that center nut, and what torque did you end up using?
 
I can’t recall the torque I used but it was A LOT more than TTI specified.

There’s no circlip etc to worry about, it’s a solid joint, 40 ft lbs makes no sense to me.
 
Didn't have a torque wrench at the racetrack. As Eddie said, A LOT more.
The 80 ft lbs on the sprocket nut haven't came loose.
 
OK I had an agenda. I don't think my P11 AMC box has a circlip either. I torqued that center clutch nut down to 70 ft lbs within the last year. Different old wet clutch though. I was told my mainshaft would snap off if it did that. I left it that way, and it hasn't snapped off yet. I think I was told that 54ft lbs is a better number. However, I think I was told that 40 years ago as well and when I took my clutch off not too long ago, that nut came off without much effort using 54ft lbs back then.

I am thinking about a 4 speed TTi box for the road and am curious about any quirks related to their product.

Thanks for the info gents
 
Yes. The biggest ‘quirk’ is that they don’t fit! Once you realise this and are ready for it, it’s not the end of the world, yiu just have to relieve metal from various points of the gearbox plates (or cradle on a Commando.

The outer cover comes rough cast, you‘d have to remove that to polish it up if that was desired.

The internal design and build quality is right up there, really fabulous inside. The gear change is so sweet, so precise, with a much shorter lever throw, really nice!

You can bet selector drums for either shift pattern.

My only comment would be, I wouldn’t buy a 4 speed. The 5 speed ratios are so nicely spaced, there’s just zero advantage to a 4 speed.
 
Fast Eddie said:
My only comment would be, I wouldn’t buy a 4 speed. The 5 speed ratios are so nicely spaced, there’s just zero advantage to a 4 speed.
Click to expand...
Agree, though I prefer the low first option. Easier low speed riding. And rev drop going up to second still keeps the 350 Manx pulling at 6500. They are renowned for being empty at revs under 5000.
 
Mike40M said:
I fitted a clutch cable to a TTI box 3 years ago. 5 speed HD without kick start. Age related memory problems. But I'm quite certain that I used an ordinary Venhill featherlight cable for an Atlas. With the usual 1/4x26 cycle thread adjuster at the gearbox. But I have a vague memory of having to change the nipple at the lever. As it didn't fit the Manx clutch lever. Anyhow it was not any big problem worth remembering. Like the milling of the gearbox case so not to hit the frame tube. And making a rear pointing gear lever.
The standard Manx clutch fitted straight on. Though I had to shim out the engine sprocket circa .020 to line up. Had to tighten the clutch centre nut more than the TTI recommended torque as the clutch came loose on a test run. No problem after that.
Click to expand...
I also used a Venhill featherlight cable, I thought it was baselined on a Commando, but I specified my required free length and don't use an adjuster at the box end! The outer cover on mine isn't threaded anyway!

I got it how I wanted it, and I had them make me a spare! My clutch info won't be of use to you because it was made by Norman White. Norman's clutches have a modified centre that won't go on the shaft past the first step at the nut thread....it doesn't use the Commando circlip or the TTi shaft diameter change for location.

I second what FE says, you are going to remove metal from the box and the plates to get it all in. Don't worry too much, excess metal in both.

There should be thread on here from when Hobot installed his TTi box, there were pictures too. Search for it.
 
Less shifting with a 4 speed. Fewer gear numbers to keep track of in an emergency stop. ;)

My thinking was if 4th in a 4 speed is the same ratio as 5th in a 5 speed, I'd just stick with the 4 speed. A 5 speed would be a better ride for sure though. I haven't made up my mind between the 4 speed and 5 speed. A better transmission is the end goal and the TTi sounds like it is that. Thanks again.

Excuse me going off topic Seattle. Bad habits die hard.
 
Schwany said:
Less shifting with a 4 speed. Fewer gear numbers to keep track of in an emergency stop. ;)

My thinking was if 4th in a 4 speed is the same ratio as 5th in a 5 speed, I'd just stick with the 4 speed. A 5 speed would be a better ride for sure though. I haven't made up my mind between the 4 speed and 5 speed. A better transmission is the end goal and the TTi sounds like it is that. Thanks again.

Excuse me going off topic Seattle. Bad habits die hard.
Click to expand...
TTi make a great box. It is really strong, probably overengineered, but that is good in the application.

The change is slick enough you won't even notice the extra change, and I have to ask you, what are you doing counting gears in an emergency stop situation?

And the alternative Quaife drum change box is going to be hard to come by now that Mick Hemmings is no longer with us.

I have been wondering if someone will take that work on. They should.
 
I'm kidding about counting gears in a panic stop. With 1" wide 7" SLS brakes, just being able to get it stopped is using up all my muscle memory and mental bandwidth.

I believe youz guys. Vaughan says exactly the same thing about a 5 speed for road use.
 
With a five speed you can get a real wide spread of gearing so that you are good for the
motorway as well as the B roads and less. The TTI box shifts easily and is made to last.
Take it apart and marvel at the build compared to, say, a Norton box!
 
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