My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Got the gearbox out and fork tubes (took me a while to figure out you just pull hard on them straight out, don't twist)

The gutted frame seems rather emasculated...

View attachment 16915

Rear iso spindle remains at large
okay so how much is a new long bolt? just break out the zipdisk and cut the bugger of at both ends between the frame and end of tube, buy a coulpe of new end caps and a long stud, there you are, its apart.
 
okay so how much is a new long bolt? just break out the zipdisk and cut the bugger of at both ends between the frame and end of tube, buy a coulpe of new end caps and a long stud, there you are, its apart.

That's eventually what it came to.

However, since i've been tied up with other projects and quite frankly procrastinating getting my self into something i have no experience with (crankcase and gearbox). Soooo, in the meantime, thought i would tackle the front caliper which was frozen. This i was dreading as well, but it was only one dread vs multiples. The pistons were stuck pretty solid and the MC was frozen as well so i couldn't use the system to push out the pistons.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


I envisioned all methods of removal failing and then having to resort to other destructive methods. Oh well, might as well get after it. Thought i'd first follow the Old Brits instructions.


Thinking the outer piston was really seized in there, i used a little too much force and ended driving it all the way flush with the inner piston. Crap! Is it now too far down to get out? Trying to pry it out just kept getting it misaligned with the outer cylinder. My coworker (son) then had a great idea and used a shop magnet to pull it enough to center it in the cylinder so it could then be easily pushed from the bottom. Ok, this was supposed to be the easy part. Now on to the inner piston. I read that using a grease gun is the way to go, but that's really gunks up the caliper, so i went the compressed air route.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


I had to put the outer piston back in to route the air to the inner piston and without the outer piston seal (took that out to get the piston out), there was a lot of leakage even with the piston back in. Thankfully though, cranking up the pressure to 60 psi did the trick to pop it (used a piece of metal where the pads go to keep it from shooting out). Doing this again, think i would try first popping the inner piston before removing the outer piston. I then used the magnet to pull it out enough that i could easily push it out the rest of the way.

The pistons didn't look all that bad. Some corrosion, but no flaking. Plan to replace with SS pistons and new seals

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Now back to the procrastinating. ;)
 
Reminds me of the time I had a hard time removing the pistons, a friend said bring them over I can get them out! Using compressed air it sent the piston flying across the shop, we just looked at each other and said Damn! Never again.
 
Pieces Parts !

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


I hope i can figure out how to put it back together :p
 
For the most part an uneventful teardown. Except for this

IMG_1792sm.jpg


Broke a cog off the camplate spindle. Think this happens when torqueing CCW on the camplate bolt which puts pressure on this cog from the actuator lever (gearchange quadrant assembly) that pushes on that cog in counter force. My solution was pushing out the spindle and clocking it around 35 deg so the damaged cog is not engaged by the actuator lever
 
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And i gotta say Super Clean is great at cleaning grease. You just need to be careful (it's super alkaline). Dilute it and don't let it sit too long, esp on soft metals

Before (50 years of grime)...

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


After...

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
The mainshaft is a little worn at the bushes, but minimal wobble from the gears. I measured deflection in the middle at 0.001" Assume this is ok

IMG_1841sm.jpg
 
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Wow, that looks nice. I was going to offer you one of my spare camplates then read your fix - great idea!
 
Getting ready to start building back the gearbox. Is the general preference to grease the bearings prior to install or leave them be (maybe a coating of oil)?
 
You can put the end of an Allen key through that hole in the cam plate so there is no stress to the teeth. fwiw.
 
2nd gear set. Should i be concerned, or GTG? 15k miles

IMG_1746sm (2nd Lay).jpg


IMG_1969sm (2nd main).jpg


One opinion was it's casting irregularities and not to worry. The pitting is all on the same side
 
I don't want to say one way or the other if you should change them but that is wear. When I purchased my Norton I was told the motor and transmission had been rebuilt and every thing was gone through. It ran great and I had no reason to doubt it, fast forward 10 years and I just wanted to do some wrenching on it. Well when I opened the gearbox I could not believe my eyes, All but a couple of the gears looked worse than that and it was clear it had suffered a layshaft bearing failure. The bore for the replaced layshaft bearing was wasted and the bearing was loose I mean loose, The main shaft was badly worn and also the lay shaft. The case was also worn from the gears hitting it, to my thinking it was toast. A couple of the gears had what looked like grooves in them also, and the bushings looked like they were the original and loose on the shafts.
And to think I rode this bike like that for so long and never noticed any noise or vibration, and we used this bike a lot and the wife always liked to ride on this bike the most. I ended up buying a new case for it and replaced all but a couple gears and replaced shafts, bearings, bushings, you name it and it was replaced. It probably depends on how hard your going to ride it, Chuck.
 
I ended up buying a new case for it and replaced all but a couple gears and replaced shafts, bearings, bushings, you name it and it was replaced.
When, upon inspection, you realize you are going to have to replace that many components, UNLESS you need to retain matching number case, it's far less expensive to buy a good replacement transmission that the seller has close-ups of the gear teeth and will refund if not satisfied (I have sold at least 4 or 5 transmissions on that basis)
 
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