My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Went ahead and rebuilt the carbs (Mikuni VM32s) while waiting on some electrical parts

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Decided on the following and will go from there

Main Jet - 230
Pilot Jet - 30
Needle Jet - P2
Needle - 6DH3
Needle Clip Position - P3 (middle)
Air Jet - 1.2
Slide - 2.5
Float Bowl Needle - 3.3

Also got some new springs. Seems to have needed them (new on right)

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Getting back to building up the bike. Starting with the battery box. Went with a RGM stainless version. Why????

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And fabbed up a hold down bolted down with a rivet nut

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The back is velcro'd. It is quite secure :)
 
Moved the horn to the side of the battery box.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


This is what you get these days from AN. Think it's either a Bosch horn or a Bosch knock off. It's actually quite loud
 
And moved the ignition switch to the front of the box. It's a CB350 switch. The original Lucas switch was toast. Went with the Honda switch because it fit the space and was covered.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Coming along very nicely.
You may want to do a mock up of your carbs and air filters before you wire up the switch.
Yeah, did a lot of mock ups but probably will have to change things cause you never know how everything is truly going to fit together until you fit it together.

The carbs are Mikunis so i don't have the stock airbox which necessitated moving the ignition switch in the first place.
 
Reaching down there with your left hand fully gloved to turn off the ignition is harder than one might think. That's about were mine is, so I know it to be true for me. If you can put the ignition switch up between the bars somewhere like on modern motorcycle, it is much easier when turning the ignition on and off.

Excuse the thoughts. I do try and stay in my own lane but occasionally drift over the line.
 
Reaching down there with your left hand fully gloved to turn off the ignition is harder than one might think. That's about were mine is, so I know it to be true for me. If you can put the ignition switch up between the bars somewhere like on modern motorcycle, it is much easier when turning the ignition on and off.
Was thinking about that. Is there a bracket
 
Was thinking about that. Is there a bracket
No idea. My guess is there is probably something out there but may not be Norton specific. You could make one. If you could hide some of the switch behind the bezel in a cup it might look a little better.

I have been thinking about moving mine up there recently but have to make a bracket for the speedo and ignition. Laziness and running a bunch of wire up there is preventing me from doing it. In my case it would be kind of raw looking but functional.

When I had Mikuni carburetors on my engine the filters were so close to the key, I had to cut the head of the key in half otherwise I couldn't get the key in the ignition with or without gloves on. Same is true for the Keihin carburetors I'm using now but only with gloves on.

I had to get the shortest K&N conical style knockoff filters I could find for the Mikuni carburetors. Straight up motor though. Not sure about the Commando. Maybe you'll get luckier with the fit.
 
Sure, and you're just the guy to use it and tell us all about it! https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-billet-center-console.html :)

Actually, if interested, call me.
Granted, the build is a little much, but that's a tad over the top :)

Other than that, this is the only thing i found. Not really loving it though. Will give the current location a try. If it sucks, will have to look at moving.

 
Dilemma #252. Do i put connectors for the stator inside the primary case (ala CNW),

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


...or on the outside of the primary (ala stock)?

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


Benefit of connectors inside is easy removal of the stator if needed. Benefit of outside is easy removal of the primary case, it's also a cleaner install.

I'm leaning towards the inside. If i need to remove the primary case, that will be a general pain in the ass and an easy electrical disconnect will only make that job marginally easier.

Or i could do two. But that's another break in the wire.
 
Dilemma #252. Do i put connectors for the stator inside the primary case (ala CNW),

View attachment 96703

...or on the outside of the primary (ala stock)?

View attachment 96701

Benefit of connectors inside is easy removal of the stator if needed. Benefit of outside is easy removal of the primary case, it's also a cleaner install.

I'm leaning towards the inside. If i need to remove the primary case, that will be a general pain in the ass and an easy electrical disconnect will only make that job marginally easier.

Or i could do two. But that's another break in the wire.
I want you to do it normally - outside so I'll say inside :) Are you doing belt-drive? That's the only way I would consider inside.
 
Yep, belt drive. Should have stated that to begin with.
 
Or i could do two. But that's another break in the wire.

I have dual breaks in the wires. Inside and outside connectors. Doesn't really make a farts worth of a difference as far as I can tell, but I'm not that anal about whatever minimal difference it could make. I do it that way because my stator is in the outer primary cover. I guess some will think that is irrelevant to a Commando owner, but it is a 750 Norton and the dual breaks in the wires are not an issue. Duplex style connector inside and separate bullet connectors outside. Everything outside is in relatively easy to separate wire wrap. Bullet connectors outside are staggered so I can use a smaller diameter wire wrap. TMI?
 
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