My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

Thought i'd give lacing the shoes a try

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Derek Wilson said:
Very Nice - looks good!! What did you use as your offset?
Click to expand...
i was shooting for 3/16" from the centerline (it's a WM4 rim), but ended up around .23". Plan is to mount both rims and check alignment prior to final tightening of the spokes.
 
Nice.

Put a carpenters laser right where the camera is (maybe a bit higher) and running dead center up the spine. Align the rear rim to the laser, and then you have a reference for where the adjusters should be set from to remain even.

And if you put a level across the frame on the shock gussets beforehand, you get to see if your rim is plumb.
 
gortnipper said:
Nice.

Put a carpenters laser right where the camera is (maybe a bit higher) and running dead center up the spine. Align the rear rim to the laser, and then you have a reference for where the adjusters should be set from to remain even.

And if you put a level across the frame on the shock gussets beforehand, you get to see if your rim is plumb.
Click to expand...

That's the plan ;)
 
Dommie Nator said:
Is that hub one of Don's?
I asked him about offset and he told me there wasn't any.
Click to expand...
I was initially told that too, but then the tire runs slightly off centre to the rear fender/ rest of the bike. They should be offset 3/16" to the right. Laying a straight edge across a WM3 steel rim, there should be about a 1/16" gap between the straight edge and the hub on the sprocket side flange.
 
Dommie Nator said:
Initially told? Did Don tell you different after he told you there was no offset?
Don's supplied right hand spacer is different (shorter) than stock.
Click to expand...
No, about 20 years ago by the old scottish guy who taught me how to build wheels. Referring to standard Norton Commando rear wheels.

If this is the case and the hub does not sit in the original location, the best thing to do is the mock up the entire assembly as it sits in the swing arm, measure the overall width and figure out where the center point is - I typically ask guys to put a piece of masking tape on the hub and draw a mark where center is - (this is a must on T100 Triumph front wheels)

Maybe Don has compensated for this difference in his set up? @madass140
 
Yes, hub and brake are Don’s. I did not ask about offset and used stock 3/16” from center. Ended up at .23” which looks about 1/16” in from the drive side on a WM4 rim. Mounted it looks centered on the main frame rail but I have not yet shot it with a laser. Also need to position so the chain is straight
 
Aligning the rear wheel with the frame is good in so much as it will show you how aligned the frame is. But it’s not really what matters. What matters is that the wheels are aligned and that they’re as central as can be.

The best way is to first centre your front wheel dead centre in the forks. You then align your rear rim to the front rim. And you align your rear hub to get chain alignment. You offset the rim from the hub as required to achieve this.
 
Fast Eddie said:
IMHO there is no point in building the rear wheel until forks and front wheel are fitted. Front wheel is the datum.
Click to expand...
But there is a point to building the rear wheel first if that’s the first wheel you build
 
Dommie Nator said:
Answer from Don,
Yes, (No Offset) but like any wheel set up I advise wheel alignment check, especially with Commando with isolastics.
Click to expand...
Interesting. What's his frame of reference when he said no offset? The rim or the centerline? And assume that's off a stock WM2 rim
 
Dommie Nator said:
But as Don mentions, "Like any wheel set up I advise wheel alignment check, especially with Commando with isolastics".
Click to expand...
I would assume you would want the wheel centered in the swing arm? If so, then the method I detailed above (measuring the stack width of everything that fits between the ears of the swing arm then divide by two to find the centre) takes all the debate and guess work out of it.

If you do want it slightly off set, then, offset it by adding the value to the center point measurement described above.

This is easiest to do with a bare hub.

FWIW
 
Derek Wilson said:
I would assume you would want the wheel centered in the swing arm? If so, then the method I detailed above (measuring the stack width of everything that fits between the ears of the swing arm then divide by two to find the centre) takes all the debate and guess work out of it.

If you do want it slightly off set, then, offset it by adding the value to the center point measurement described above.

This is easiest to do with a bare hub.

FWIW
Click to expand...
IMHO, centered in the swingarm is unimportant (the swingarm is not symmetrical). Two things are important to me:

1) Inline with the front wheel, hopefully centered on the front wheel.
2) Chain running straight.

The factory lacing with WM2 rims and all stock rear wheel spacers is very close to this on those I've checked.

So, get the front wheel right and then the rear. Alternatively, set the rear wheel to be centered on the top tube with the sprockets inline and then match the front wheel.

Since Tom is using a WM4 rim and wider tire, he must be sure he has clearance on both sides and may have to offset both the front a rear wheel depending on how wide he goes with the tire. So, starting with the rear and sorting that out first is a good idea. As long as the wheels are inline, being a little off center won't be noticeable on a road bike.
 
Frames can be off a little here n there and so can things mounted in isolastics. But none of it matters too much if the important points are all in line.

Getting the front wheel centered in the forks is always gonna be the best starting point. Until you do that, you have no datum to work from. I can’t see how it couldn’t be the correct centre line (unless the frame is scrap).

Ignoring this datum and simply building the rear wheel offset around what looks right compared to some random frame tubes, and then working from there, is wrong IMO.
 
I mounted the rear wheel because that's the rim I happened to start with. I won't be doing any alignment until I get the front wheel mounted, which is way more complicated by the way
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top