My baby burped.

As you recall from a previous post (you recall ALL of them, right?) my front brake wouldn't bleed right, despite bleeding it multiple times. It stopped the bike just fine so I just kept riding.

Something happened the other day. I went to grab the brake and it wasn't as soft. Perhaps the air bubble finally burped it way out.

Good things come to those who wait, I guess. :mrgreen:

Well there you go. Time heals all!

Another old trick is to hold the brake on with a zip tie or something like that and leave it overnight. Sometimes that helps get the air bubbles out.

I still have a little air in the line on my 850's brake. I haven't been able to get it all out. I'm thinking of getting one of those banjo bolts that have a bleed valve, and fitting that at the master cylinder.

Debby

One of the bike mags had an article about bleeding brakes. they mentioned a bike with multiple pistons that was notorious for problems getting them bubble proof. The solution was to unbolt the caliper and tapping while rotating it this way and that. I tried it on my Honda and it worked.

Yep, unbolt caliper and rotate it so that any trapped air can naturally rise inside the fluid system up the ipe and back into the reservoir.

Tapping it with a screwdriver handle from bottom to top as you go along helps.

Having someone work the lever EVER SO SLIGHTLY, just on the very first bit of piston travel, works amazingly well. remove the cover and protect the area with a towel so you can visually see the progress, you'll be suprised.

Same for Mark III rear brake, only better. Air doesn't like going downhill AT ALL.

debby said:

Well there you go. Time heals all!

Another old trick is to hold the brake on with a zip tie or something like that and leave it overnight. Sometimes that helps get the air bubbles out.

I still have a little air in the line on my 850's brake. I haven't been able to get it all out. I'm thinking of getting one of those banjo bolts that have a bleed valve, and fitting that at the master cylinder.

Debby

Click to expand...

I clamped the lever back so many times I couldn't count. Didn't help me.

The only trick I didn't try was to unbolt the caliper. I'll have to shorten the brake line when I put the clip-ons on so I'll get another try at this. :cry:

Go to a medical supply warehouse and pick up one of these for cheap used. Plug it in, loosen the bleeder, keep your eye on the reservoir and off you go. Handy for any brake system. No fuss no muss. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. And quick. Re coupe all unused clean fluid.

I've been using a "MityVac" for my brake bleeds over the last 25 years or so. Has served very well indeed. For those who don't know what they are.. it's a small hand held vacuum pump with an attached resevoir.
I use the cheapest, smallest model, the MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit.
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp#MV8020

I've allso been using "Speed-Bleeders" after the initial purge for subsequent fluid changes.. For those that dont know what they are,, they're bleed nipples with a built in check valve.
https://www.speedbleeder.com/

JD

jeffdavison said:

I've been using a "MityVac" for my brake bleeds over the last 25 years or so. Has served very well indeed. For those who don't know what they are.. it's a small hand held vacuum pump with an attached resevoir.
I use the cheapest, smallest model, the MV8020 Brake Bleeding Kit.
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpk.asp#MV8020

I've allso been using "Speed-Bleeders" after the initial purge for subsequent fluid changes.. For those that dont know what they are,, they're bleed nipples with a built in check valve.
https://www.speedbleeder.com/

JD

Click to expand...

I used the MityVac, still didn't help. Like I said I tried everything except take it off the bike and invert the caliper.