Discussion in 'Norton Motorcycle Rebuilds' started by Torontonian, Nov 23, 2014.
Update: Replaced instruments with electronic type. Lots of tiny wires.
Have you got them wired in yet? 'It's a PITA of a job, but fairly straightforward if you take it step by step and follow the instructions.
What speedo drive set up did you use?
It's the cheapest simplest one. A fake cable into the Speedo drive gearbox that contains a sensor with protruding rubber shrouded tip. Small and not noticeable. There is also an option where the Speedo drive unit is rebuilt with a Hall-vane sensor instead of the internal gears , obviously to do away with the gearbox gear large gear which eventually fails.
That's what I used, and so long as the speedo drive unit is in good condition, I can confirm it works well. I'm changing Mine though, with a modified version of the super neat cNw set up (requires modifying as Matt's kit is for neg earth components).
It's in good shape. As for the DT clamp I just went to unscrew it and it was less than tight. Looks like the powdercoat had compressed with the force of the clamp. Dremel tool time down to the metal.
Dremel rotary burr tip took off the powdercoat fairly quickly. DT clamp now securely against the frame tube metal. Tonight I did a different awkward job , removal of the stock horn and bracket. P.O. had the wires to it snipped off by cutters. Tiny newer horn beside the battery may have to go too. :roll:
Picked up a very good disc , a very good stepped seat , and a very good Dunlop K81 at the Burlington Swap. All cheap. Sold off many parts all used but good from pre-75. I can't kick anymore so am selling off. I'll change the bike's bodywork setup to Roadster as an interchangeable option from Interstate so need a good painter in GTA Toronto this winter.
Cleaned out primary. Lots of black goo from hydraulic tensioners wear. Remember I have 5 worn tensioners from the P.O. who saved them for lucky me. New ones are in place now. With Type 5 ATF up to drain plug. Added a lot of stainless bits too. Removed stock horn and put a Fiamm in it's place. Next a relay for it as a test of it was as weak as the original. Will check the ground tomorrow and test it again.
My Fiamm with a relay is LOUD.
Doing a mock-up now. Am changing to roadster style , Tough to get the side panels to fit perfectly, so will be doing some bending and filing and fitting a longer bolt on the battery side mounting lug. This cover is a fiberglass reproduction. . Sigh. This all to get them to fit right BEFORE the paintwork. The seat I picked up at the Burlington CVMG swap is in great shape , lower with a raised passenger level for the wifey or sleeping bag stuff. It's about my pathetic butt or lack of one. The Interstate setup is lovely with a comfy enough seat , but it puts me too far back and leaning forward for the handlebars , so I will attempt this change. I prefer an upright stance due to a lifetime of occasional scoliosis pain. Devalues the bike big time , but I will just hang onto the original bodywork for now.
Value is only of interest when you come to sell it.
Until then, quality of the ride, to suit you, is really all that matters.
Yes , thanks for reinforcing my decision. It will no way look as good as the original silver 76 Interstate bodywork set-up , which I shall keep with the cross-over bean cans set-up stock from factory... BUT.. my Butt and back at 59 yrs. will appreciate the change until I can't ride anymore. I'm thinking the same silver.
Hi Eddie, I am surprised to learn about the negative earth requirement. CnW doesn't mention this in their description!
How do you accomplish a signal on the negative cable lead (as opposed to the positive lead) ? By fitting an external signal conversion unit? The sender is potted as I recall.
This will not be a problem for me as I am wiring for negative ground from the outset .....
Actually, on that link you posted, it says in bold text “Note: The kit is designed to run with a Negative ground system only”.
I got around it by using a pick up supplied by Smiths, it’s a smaller diameter so the cNw housing required bushing. Matt supplied me a plain large nut, that I drilled and fitted a magnet into.
It should all work perfectly, but at present, it’s sat on the shelf!
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