Mk111 Project

Pulled head and barrels. Looks like both black rubber intake valve seals were hard as a rock. One was off of the valve end and riding up and down with it . Lots of carbon to scrape off because of this but cleaned up well. Piston rings gap good rear position on top rings but both lower rings gaps were gapped on the sides instead of opposite of the top one. Walls look glazed. I'll get a honing done ,refit the rings re:manual and fit new intake valve seals. The flame ring headgasket was not leaking. :?
 
Rightside barrel had a gouge so rebored to .40 oversize. Now need to investigate high isolastics vibes.
 
Isolastic washers were dry as a bone under their rubber covers , so sprayed them ( all 4 ) with Silicone lubricant. Moved the adjusters a little bit to set front and rear at .008 clearance. The front was at .006 and the rear .009 . The head steady will be replaced by a Dave Taylor unit when I put the barrels and head back on. Also I noticed that both the front and rear isolastic adjustable ends are located on the timing (R) side of the bike. My manual shows the adjustable ends as such : Front is timing side , rear to be on primary side. Should I be alarmed :eek: by this or not. ? Remember this bike vibrates more than other Nortons so I'm hoping to just lube and adjust.
 
Torontonian said:
I noticed that both the front and rear isolastic adjustable ends are located on the timing (R) side of the bike. My manual shows the adjustable ends as such : Front is timing side , rear to be on primary side. Should I be alarmed :eek: by this or not. ?
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The Mk3 front adjuster must go on the timing side, however, rear adjuster would normally be on the primary side but as the rear fixed abutment and adjuster are the same lengths they can be fitted either way but it will be slightly more difficult to adjust with the adjuster on the timing side as the battery tray bracket is wider that side.
 
Good. Who wants to reverse the rear iso if it's not necessary. Frame was powder coated so this must be when it went in reversed.
 
Winched the MK 111 upstairs with the help of Manse James (Our O.N.O. President ) and Robert Pytlik (Big Money Wasted ). Pulled all bodywork and exhaust system and battery beforehand. Going downstairs will be a different scene come spring what with barrels and head and carbs back in place refurbished ( Weight factor ). So I'm adding a breather valve. Tonight put in the new polished SS timing bolt after a struggle removing the original . Heat and cold (ice cube ) worked. Rear brake push-rod rubber cup must be replaced. Tips ? Also how to bleed rear brake properly after with new fluid ? Air filter foam was crumbling to bits. The handlebar assembly right twistgrip side remains sloppy on the bars. Thoughts ? Other than that all is proceeding well and my leg is healing. We leave soon. Indonesia. :)
 
That rubber cup is included in a rear master overhaul kit. Brake bleeding is straightforward. If the switch pod clamp doesn't hold the pod solid on the bar, add a couple winds of electrical tape. You can do the same with a twistgrip.
 
Danno said:
That rubber cup is included in a rear master overhaul kit. Brake bleeding is straightforward. If the switch pod clamp doesn't hold the pod solid on the bar, add a couple winds of electrical tape. You can do the same with a twistgrip.
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Be careful when ordering brake master cylinder overhaul kit, inquire as to the exact contents. The last kit I bought did NOT include the plunger gaiter!
 
I found that by using a syringe and force bleeding from the caliper works best. Then I bleed again, but this time in the normal way. I also think by leaving the pistons all the way in the caliper reduces the amount of air in the system prior to bleeding. Also pay close attention to the cylinder depth in the master cylinder. Too far either way will cause the brakes not to work properly. It can be as little as one turn either way that will cause a problem. I also use red rubber grease that is recommended for brake systems to lube the seals and pistons. Good luck.

Pete
 
Thanks. When we get back in the spring I will be selling off a lot of pre-75 parts , also my 72. I can't kick anymore , I now have osteoporosis which doctors are reversing with V. D3 and calcium diet and sun and mild weight exercise. The MK111 is looking good , loaded in new stuff. :)
 
Back from Indonesia ,backpacked Sumatra and Bali. Found out only one Norton in the entire country and it's a silver 66 Dominator ? Never saw it but there is a vintage club that has Sunday drives around Denpassar and into Java. Also a company called DEUS make fat tire bobbers out of smaller bikes. I've started work again on the MK 111. I can't get my Dave Taylor headsteady small tube mounting bracket to fit over this powdercoated frame so it looks like I will have to dremel tool grind away some aluminum bracket material larger to fit over the frame small tube to get it to fit. Also fitted a Venhill clutch cable to it tonight although a bit too long for the Majorca low bars. Only one Walridge sells. Tomorrow Venhill carb cables. That's it for now.
 
Torontonian said:
I can't get my Dave Taylor headsteady small tube mounting bracket to fit over this powdercoated frame so it looks like I will have to dremel tool grind away some aluminum bracket material larger to fit over the frame small tube to get it to fit.
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NO!!!

Dremel the powdercoating off the frame tube, then touch it up with Rust-O-Leum gloss black and let it cure. Those Taylor clamps are marvelously cut, it would be pitiful to take a Dremel to it.
 
Well that just about answers that question and that's exactly what the forum is for. So how to remove powdercoating at the small tube clamp point ? File it off ? Tonight I refit the new carbs with hard anodized 3 1/2 slides , and fit the 32 to 30 mm. manifolds because of the decision to fit the RH 10 head instead of the RH 4. Went well. Trying to fit a new throttle cable too but can't back out the 2 big Phillips screws holding the AP Racing MC assembly to the R. twistgrip assembly so WD 40 will work overnight . I hope. It's going well.
 
Somebody was mentioning using some solvent on the powdercoat, I don't recall who but you can search it.

I use a hardened dremel burr and back off when you see the smallest spark. Then, clean up with emery paper.
 
Alright it looks like a Dremel burr tip to the powdercoated area of the small frame tube. Not the DT clamp where it mates with the tube.
 
Simply clamped the DT headsteady clamp tight to the small tube overtop of the powdercoat paint. It's tight and I think it will not move , even though there is a gap where the 2 pieces don't quite touch together. A lovely mechanism. On another subject.. Ordered in Smiths Electronic instruments today after 2 wks. of searching for my originals. Removed them for protection whilst winching stripped -down bike upstairs for the engine rebuild. It's like hiding a key somewhere so no one else finds it. Painkillers and a useless leg were likely factors. Should I get plates and screws out the new issue. No money involved here in Canada , infection my worry.
 
Torontonian said:
Simply clamped the DT headsteady clamp tight to the small tube overtop of the powdercoat paint. It's tight and I think it will not move, even though there is a gap where the 2 pieces don't quite touch together.
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It will shake itself loose in due time. The crushed powdercoat will yield to the vibration.
 
In that case , it looks like I will be removing the clamp (again) and filing off all the contact area with the powdercoating tonight. Nothing better to do , wife is on a first class train on way home. :)
 
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