Mk1 Amal banjo's?

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Hegel

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Hi guys,

I bought a set of Mk1's off Fleabay, over all they seem to be in reasonable shape.

The only fly in the ointment so far is trying to unscrew the banjos off the bottom of the float bowls.

What the thread? Right or Left? I ask as they're really tight, don't want to snap anything off :shock: I can get a small amount of turn, then they tighten up again.

I can only guess they've never been off...ever! Steel bolts and ally castings were never going to be a match in heaven. :roll:

Any help is always greatly appreciated! :)

Steve
 
They're a normal right hand thread as I remember. Sounds like yours has been put in cross-threaded; easy to do, I've done it & had to replace the bowl :roll:
 
Hi Alan,

Thanks :) I'm hoping that they are just gummed up. I've been spraying a load of plus-gas into them, with any luck it'll free them up.

I saw on Andover that there doesn't seem to be any filters available...Is there someone who makes them per chance?
 
I would use a little heat to warm the bowls before trying too hard.

Greg
 
gjr,

Rgr on the heat. Is there a special technique to getting the float/ pin out? Mine are in there really tight.

Thanks L.A.B :) I looked on AN, but the diagram I saw didn't have the fuel filter highlighted in Red, couldn't select it....So could only guess they weren't available.

I've got to speak to Nick later this week, will order the bits I need.

The next question I guess is; how can you get the ticklers out, without destroying them, if at all?

Sorry :D Full of questions today!
 
Hegel said:
The next question I guess is; how can you get the ticklers out, without destroying them, if at all?
Click to expand...

Are they the later "button" type ticklers?
If so, you need to devise some means of holding both the tickler button and the pin (two pairs of pliers with rag between the jaws?) so you can pull them apart using a twisting motion. New tickler assemblies are available if necessary.


http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/buildCarb_Mk1.aspx
Mk1 Amal banjo's?


622/172
Category Tickler Pin
Price £2.23 (£2.68 inc. VAT)
Click to expand...
 
On the banjo's, you say the loosen and then tighten. May be cross threaded, my not, may just be gummed up.
Loosen them to the loosest point and the spray the with WD-40 or the like and just wiggle it back and forth, tight-loose untill it starts to give you more wiggle room, spray some more, use heat and the may just break loose.
The float pins just slide out but yours may be gummed up too. More WD-40
The ticklers are just roll pins with a swedged over end. Push then down and straighten the ends and they should pull out.
 
L.A.B,

The tops are the same, tho the pin seems to have a flare on the end of it. I take it then they're an interference fit?

Thanks Guido. The float pins have been staked, i.e. there are two very small punch marks either side of the pin in the bowl casting.

I've got the carb bodies sitting in an ultrasonic tank at the mo. Seem pretty good at getting the kak out of them so far.
 
Hegel said:
The tops are the same, tho the pin seems to have a flare on the end of it.
Click to expand...

Yes, the pin must be flared at the end or it wouldn't stay in position.

The "top" and the pin should just pull apart as described?

Alternatively crush/cut off the flare and withdraw the pin but then you will probably need either a new roll pin or a new tickler assembly.

Mk1 Amal banjo's?
 
Thanks again for that. Well I hope it'll pull apart without a load of grief. Still good to know I can get the bits.

They've had a while in the tank now, so hopefully it will have got most of the deposits out of them. If not they'll get another scrub and back in they go!

Do they need a load of pressure to reassemble them?

:)
 
Hegel said:
Thanks again for that. Well I hope it'll pull apart without a load of grief. Still good to know I can get the bits.

They've had a while in the tank now, so hopefully it will have got most of the deposits out of them. If not they'll get another scrub and back in they go!

Do they need a load of pressure to reassemble them?

:)
Click to expand...

Not a lot of pressure for anything on these carbs, especially float bowl and flanges. Make sure you true and flatten all surfaces before assembly.
I am a little confuse here. The banjo, of course, is not threaded but held in place by the retaining bolt and sealing washers on each side.. You may have better success, as with many Norton fasteners with a 6 point socket or box.
622/078
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/ProductCatego ... arentId=42
 
I'm sure he's talking about the banjo bolt is stuck in the float bowl, there should be a gasket between the bolt head and the banjo fitting and again between the banjo fitting and the float bowl so nipping up should not be real tight. There is also a small plastic filter that fits in the banjo, Amal should have them, I would think, but not sure. If you have the plastic banjos, better to get the metal ones, although my old plastic ones still work, I don't use them.

Dave
69S
 
pvisseriii said:
Hegel said:
Thanks again for that. Well I hope it'll pull apart without a load of grief. Still good to know I can get the bits.

They've had a while in the tank now, so hopefully it will have got most of the deposits out of them. If not they'll get another scrub and back in they go!

Do they need a load of pressure to reassemble them?
Click to expand...

Not a lot of pressure for anything on these carbs, especially float bowl and flanges. Make sure you true and flatten all surfaces before assembly.
Click to expand...

I believe Hegel is actually referring to reinstalling the tickler button on the pin.

pvisseriii said:
The banjo, of course, is not threaded but held in place by the retaining bolt and sealing washers on each side.
Click to expand...
DogT said:
there should be a gasket between the bolt head and the banjo fitting and again between the banjo fitting and the float bowl
Click to expand...

The upper banjo gasket washer 14/175 is for alcohol fuel applications, it isn't used with the plastic filter.
The lower gasket washer 13/163 is not used with plastic banjos.
Mk1 Amal banjo's?


http://www.vintageclassicbikeparts.co.u ... 2-36-p.asp
http://www.vintageclassicbikeparts.co.u ... 7-37-p.asp
 
Boy, I didn't know that. I would think there would have to be a gasket between the bolt head and the bottom of the banjo though. Otherwise there is no seal there except metal on metal? I can understand not having one with the plastic filter though, but it doesn't seem to matter at least on mine, nothing leaks.

ed:Oh, I see "plastic" banjos.

I have spark now, I fixed the coil.

Dave
69S
 
Hegel said:
Is there a special technique to getting the float/ pin out? Mine are in there really tight.
Click to expand...

I unstake them with a nail set and a few gentle taps with a hammer, holding the bowl in my hand. Once I'm done with them, I stake them again.

Greg
 
I believe Hegel is actually referring to reinstalling the tickler button on the pin.
Click to expand...

Yessir!

Well the banjo bolts are still stuck. I can see I'm going to have to cut the old plastic ones off at this rate (One nozzle was already snapped anyway). The ultra sonics didn't get all the crud off the top of the float chamber either...But despite that they look better already. :) I'll give the crud another roughing up and back into the tank they go!

So what does everyone use to buff them up? A bit of autosol?

The main jet assembly in one of them is completely shot. Rusty as the day is long. Thankfully they unscrewed without any grief tho.

Been a long long time since I played with a set of carbs, really rather fun to get back into it again. :) :)

Thanks Greg, I'll do my best not to crack one! lol
 
These darn bowl banjo's can be a terror to get tight enough to seal and yet not so tight they distort and leak. It took me like 4 goes to get my current Amals sealed using the plastic kind and I was sorely temped to glue the buggers on, so yours might be. One last try might be dunk the bowls in boiling water then have at it until you win or tear em off to get new bowls and banjos of the pot metal sort and seals. If you know a goop that is fuel safe it couldn't hurt to try it. It's zn-oxide that collects inside carb not fuel residue and only physical removal works. Once ya do get these sealed and engine started, you adjust float level so best idle is gotten with 1.5 turns out of pilot air screw.
 
Hegel said:
Yessir!

Been a long long time since I played with a set of carbs, really rather fun to get back into it again. :) :)
Click to expand...
If these carbs are this crudded up, expect much more fun ahead. Yes, you should be ROTFL in no time.
 
Steve,

Funny you mention goop....In the float chamber on the RHS...I'm not sure what it is exactly...To start it's hard to chip off, like lime scale, but doesn't come off in large flakes. It goes powdery like chalk, or plaster of Paris. Been using a dremel on a slow speed, with a soft brush to get the worst of it off this evening. doing a pretty good job too!

Sounds like I might have some 'extra' fun trying to get them to seal then, lol.

We've got a really good hotplate here at work, it operates from pretty much room temperature to several hundred degrees, so I might sit the bowl on that and bring it up to temperature that way. Do you know of a temperature limit for the pot-metal?

pvisseriii,

Strangely,I was more worried about the throttle slides being worn out, rather than the crud.
 
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