micro-switch for oil feed valve

DogT · Oct 8, 2012

Now I need to wire it up. I have the switch situated so the valve has to be fully open to close the switch. I thought about making it close when dis-engaged from the lever, but I didn't like that idea. I'm just going to solder some wires to the NO contacts and take them up to the ignition and break the lead to the coils with it, so I can restore it to original configuration without cutting into the harness. It took me about an hour to make that little bracket with a hacksaw.

They were about a buck each from Jameco. But they have a $25 min, but I was buying some other stuff. Good for 5A at 125V, so they should be good at 12V.

I'm going to use one for the rear brake switch too, and if I can figure out how to arrange it for the front brake too that would be nice to get rid of that spongy front brake cable.

Dave
69S

Jeandr · Oct 8, 2012

Nice and easy mod, much better than the plastic spring loaded valve.

Jean

speirmoor · Oct 8, 2012

Nice work DogT.

lrutt · Oct 9, 2012

that a weatherproof switch?

DogT · Oct 9, 2012

Is that Lucas switch under the rear brake pedal water proof? Doesn't matter to me, I don't ride in the rain. Your mileage may vary.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Oct 9, 2012

Water proof switch should not matter as long as it shuts on/off and terminals don't rust on or fall off, as easy enough to renew switch now and then or hot wire-jumper it if failed after a long while away from home. Switches like this are fairly common upgrade to rear brake peddle switch and havn't read report of any those water failing so far. Could rig up rubber bootie to shield off road grime that may short out when wet. If the switch worked a relay to main power on then likely may never have to replace the tiny switch in your ride life time.

DogT · Oct 9, 2012

I doubt with it's location, much water would get into it. The only entrance point would be the little knob that the lever works, everything else appears to be tight. Yes, easy enough to replace or hot wire if necessary. It's probably just as water tight as the Lucas one on the brake that would leak through the terminals. I'm sorry I only got 5 of the little buggers, they're nice and small (body is only 0.8" long)and I've been finding uses for them all over the place, besides the M/C.

Dave
69S

napanorton · Oct 9, 2012

Just ran across this via Google - http://carritek.com/newpage12.htm. Seems a similar solution. How come there isn't a robust/weatherproof ball valve with switch already manufactured. It seems this would be a good thing in industrial settings for process machinery, etc.

speirmoor · Oct 9, 2012

napanorton said:
Just ran across this via Google - http://carritek.com/newpage12.htm. Seems a similar solution. How come there isn't a robust/weatherproof ball valve with switch already manufactured. It seems this would be a good thing in industrial settings for process machinery, etc.

I searched and searched for a dedicated item to no avail. Easy find one for a 2Ft pipe on an Oilrig or something but nothing this small.Definitely a market for one.

Brithit · Oct 9, 2012

I'm curious as to what size of WOG valve people are using on these oil line taps. A 5/16" with a barbed end seems like a very loose fit on a 3/8" hose. A 3/8" valve is fairly good sized. Would the smaller valve create any kind of restriction? I'm not critical of any of this, but just wondered what people think as to the size?

DogT · Oct 9, 2012

The 1/2" PEX valve I got is pretty close to the inner diameter of the 3/8" oil line. I got a 3/8" pex valve and it is way too small. The 1/2" pex fits fine in the 3/8" oil line and it looks like the ball hole is about 3/8".

Dave
69S

gripper · Oct 9, 2012

I rigged up a similar micro switch for both my rear brake and, when i still had a drum front, I screwed one under the front brake lever operated by a small self tapping screw. A good place to find these switches is in old washing machines.

J.A.W. · Oct 10, 2012

Is a 'failsafe' incorporated? Like - if power to valve is interrupted does it close - & stop oil flow to still running mill?
DogT, What happens if you are out riding & it starts raining? Do you pull over `til it stops -or what?

drones76 · Oct 10, 2012

J.A.W. said:
Is a 'failsafe' incorporated? Like - if power to valve is interrupted does it close - & stop oil flow to still running mill?
DogT, What happens if you are out riding & it starts raining? Do you pull over `til it stops -or what?

Power does not control the valve. It is completely manual. The failsafe is that the valve has to be open for it to engage the switch which will allow him to start the bike. The worst thing that you can do is shut off the bike and not manually turn the valve to closed. That is the same as not having the valve at all and will result in a wet sump condition.

There is no way to start the bike with the valve closed.

DogT · Oct 11, 2012

JAW,

I'm an old fart and only ride on cool crisp days, and not that far since I have the F/G tank and choose to use avgas. So it's not hard to keep out of the rain. I had it out yesterday for a run and I can't believe how good it's running and idling, like never before. But now that I've cleaned the clutch and installed the clutch rod seal it's a bit grabby.

IronJohns' switch is the cat's meow though. It's a deal at the price, given it's custom made. I just like to tinker.

Yes, the valve will only close manually, and I like the way it has to be fully open to run. Like drones says, the worst you can do is let it wet sump.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Oct 11, 2012

hehe, the only danger with this compact cutie valve is ya forget to switch it on and kick so many times ya wear off the ZAPP layer before any oil pressure developed. In Peel's case I just used an ole gas ball valve whose handle sticks out in the way to use kicker on put foot on peg w/o moving handle lined up inline with tires, but that required replumbing the oil path. At a rally though I'd take more time looking at the DIZ verison than off the shelf if that influences anyone.

micro-switch for oil feed valve

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