Masterlink width reduction

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This question may have been asked before – didn’t see it when I searched however.

I recently went through the “too wide chain” issue on my 1974 Roadster. I replaced my original chain with a Regina that measured .864” over pins with a master link that was .885’ over pins. I had slight scraping with the trans housing in four areas of the chain including at the master link. I also had close conditions with the AN Chainguard which is narrower than my original chainguard. Sprocket alignment is good, shimming of inner chaincase is correct an trans sprocket installed correctly.

After reading Greg Marsh’s tutorial on chains and communicating with him I purchase a 10B-1 chain and master link. The chain was .770” over pins and the link .818”. Installed the link from inside -out. Close but good-to-go.

Question: Given that the pins on a chain are a tight press into the side plates which is the sole means of retention, could I not reduce the width of the master link to more closely match the max width of the chain by grinding/filing the area of the pins outside of the plates? Assuming decent sprocket alignment the chain side loads cannot be that significant. In application the side loads on a derailleur equipped bicycle would be proportionally higher due to the side loads during shifting.

In measuring a sampling of master links, the pins are typically .050” proud of the outside of the plates. Reducing the pin height by .025” on each side would have the master link width match the chain. Maybe be helpful in tight clearance cases.
 
I am sure if you are capable of using an angle grinder to reduce the width of your joining link, then you can do it.

However, if you have a problem, the manufacturer of the chain is going to give you the royal salute if you want to attempt to make a claim.

Most of us are used to fitting the joining link in the chain from the outside and fitting the clip on the inside. Most of the lack of clearance is between the sprocket and the inner primary case.
 
This question may have been asked before – didn’t see it when I searched however.

I recently went through the “too wide chain” issue on my 1974 Roadster. I replaced my original chain with a Regina that measured .864” over pins with a master link that was .885’ over pins. I had slight scraping with the trans housing in four areas of the chain including at the master link. I also had close conditions with the AN Chainguard which is narrower than my original chainguard. Sprocket alignment is good, shimming of inner chaincase is correct an trans sprocket installed correctly.

After reading Greg Marsh’s tutorial on chains and communicating with him I purchase a 10B-1 chain and master link. The chain was .770” over pins and the link .818”. Installed the link from inside -out. Close but good-to-go.

Question: Given that the pins on a chain are a tight press into the side plates which is the sole means of retention, could I not reduce the width of the master link to more closely match the max width of the chain by grinding/filing the area of the pins outside of the plates? Assuming decent sprocket alignment the chain side loads cannot be that significant. In application the side loads on a derailleur equipped bicycle would be proportionally higher due to the side loads during shifting.

In measuring a sampling of master links, the pins are typically .050” proud of the outside of the plates. Reducing the pin height by .025” on each side would have the master link width match the chain. Maybe be helpful in tight clearance cases.
No.
 
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