Maney 920 & TTI transplant

That’s not a breather you’re looking at on the rear of the timing case, that’s the oil return from the cylinder head. This has to be done on a Stage 3 Maney head cos he breaks into the stock oil return hole when he opens the inlets ports, so it has to be welded up. So, that’s also one potential head gasket oil leak cause removed!

It says ‘breather fitting’ in pen as that was simply my instructions to my machinist who had to drill and tap the hole for the fitting.

Engine breathing WAS gonna be taken care of by a cNw reed valve bolted to the back of the crank case ‘Combat style’ but this gave clearance issue between engine and box, so I’m using the Comnoz sump type that I used very successfully on the 850 motor.

My VERY limited understanding about this reed valve topic is thus:

No, you definitely do no want to keep the original breather position as well as one of the aforementioned, that would screw up the functionality.

The theory is to get the reed valve as close as possible to the source of the pressure, to avoid any ‘air cushion’ or delay in the pressure pulses acting on the reed valve. The theory behind blocking the timing cover etc is similar, the idea is to prevent an plenum chamber acting as a ‘cushion’. At revs the breathing happens as very short / sharp pulses, it’s not really ‘breathing’ as we might envisage. So, blocking the timing cover, siting the reed valve as close as possible to the crank case chamber, all helps to keep these ‘pulses’ clear and sharp.

As I said, that’s my very limited ‘lay persons’ understanding.

But what I do know with practical certainty, is that they work exceedingly well !
 
I find it staggering just how much time stuff like this seems to take !

Is it just me ??

Gettin’ there tho. Slowly...

Maney 920 & TTI transplant
 
Well, it would go faster if there were never two steps backward!

I am in that same camp today. Missed my club run chasing my tail on a leaky carb issue... it's always the last thing you check and then you have to undo the wrong "fixes".

Keep at it, looking great!
 
Well, it would go faster if there were never two steps backward!

I am in that same camp today. Missed my club run chasing my tail on a leaky carb issue... it's always the last thing you check and then you have to undo the wrong "fixes".

Keep at it, looking great!

All true!

And when you’re making it up as you go along, a few detours are inevitable.

The footrests I showed in my last pic are simple affairs, but they still took me a day! And now I gotta sort new spacers for them. And shorten the brake rod. And I might still end up changing things on the gear-change side...

Oh well, onwards and upwards...
 
No, your not the only one.....Anytime I'm doing custom or one off type of work it seems to go like that. Progress, any progress, even slow progress, is good in my book. Cj
 
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All true!

And when you’re making it up as you go along, a few detours are inevitable.

The footrests I showed in my last pic are simple affairs, but they still took me a day! And now I gotta sort new spacers for them. And shorten the brake rod. And I might still end up changing things on the gear-change side...

Oh well, onwards and upwards...
Can it s be a Commando with no Z plates? ;-)

Of course, half an hour after my wife went out on a one horsepower ride, and left the kids with me i fixed the carb issue.
 
Can it s be a Commando with no Z plates? ;-).

I used to think that, but when you run a high level 2:1 race pipe, and don’t carry pillions, those iconic Z plates just become unused chunks of heavy metal!

Less is more...

Ludwig has the best idea, no plates at all, just a lug welded to the frame. The difference between Ludwig and I though is that he’s clever, and thinks ahead. Whereas I’m making it up as I go along...!
 
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As some may recall, I had the rotor turned down to give .020” clearance all round (.040” smaller than the stator) which is twice the standard amount. The old motor had .010”, but still managed to touch, crank flex I assume?

Actually, the new rotor in the new stator was less than .010” initially, so it’s well worth checking these things before fitting ‘em folks.

Anyway, there is lots of clearence this time.


There isn’t clearance for nuts on the stator studs though. I used some 12 point ones instead.

Maney 920 & TTI transplant


There’ll be no oil in the chaincase, so I smoothed things out behind where the clutch drum will sit just to be on the safe side with clearances etc. I did the same on the back side around the final drive sprocket.

Maney 920 & TTI transplant
 
I’d kinda allocated some time to dragging my T140 back to life today, but all it took was 3 kicks and some air in the tyres!

So I got the rearsets finished off and fitted...

Maney 920 & TTI transplant
Maney 920 & TTI transplant
 
That looks like a pretty big dog leg on the rear brake lever, and it is hard to tell if the lever is fairly 90 degrees to the rod? Are you worried about flex at all here?
 
The dog leg was added by me. It’s required to miss the chaincase.

Is all very solid in application, whilst testing it in the shed at least. Not that it matters much as I hardly use the rear brake.

No fancy science behind that statement, it’s just that when swapping from right to left change, and up to down shift patterns, and after stamping on the gear pedal by mistake a few times, I kinda learned to manage without a rear brake.

It’s no great loss though, I think every drum braked British bike I’ve ever owned has had a pretty near useless rear brake!
 
As anyone who’s fitted FCRs to a Commando will know, they’re a tight fit, not a lot of spare space around the gusset area.

I knew the Maney manifolds looked a bit bigger / longer than the cNw one I’d used previously, so I modified the fixings a bit, I fitted small silent block mounts for the oil tank and side panel that have a female thread on one side and used some super slim Allen head bolts from underneath, I also shave the heads of the Allen screws in the carb tops. I thought this would help with the space issue.

Then I went to mount the carbs and REALLY struggled. When I finally got them in, the carb tops were hard against the gusset plate. Bugger.

I turns out the Maney manifolds a quite a bit longer than the cNw ones, and enough to cause the trouble.

I thought about hacking the gusset plate out. But decided against it.

Instead, I took the lovely cNw manifold off of my 850 head. Comnoz had beautifully machined the inside to taper to the RH10 head. But I needed it to match the Maney stage 3 head if I was going to use it. So I spent the afternoon opening them out and matching to the head. Just another unplanned job!

Much apologies to Matt and Comnoz for hogging out their beautiful manifold! Sorry gents, but needs must at the moment!

The Maney manifolds are longer than the cNw ones, it might not look a lot, but there just ain’t room for them:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant




The head end of the cNw manifold after opening out to match the Maney stage 3 head:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant


The carb end of the cNw manifold hasn’t been opened out, just blended in:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant
 
Well at least you can get Jim to make you another pair for your RH10 and balance in the universe will be restored.

You better put something in those plug holes lest you drop a washer and have more unplanned work...
 
You better put something in those plug holes lest you drop a washer and have more unplanned work...

A) that’s not a bad idea:rolleyes:

B) it should’t really have required the assistance of the World Wide Web for me to have realised this:oops:

C) plugs now fitted:)
 
Well, I’m pleased to announce that I got some plugs in the holes before dropping any washers in there!

I also got the linkage sorted today, the gear shift seems nice, although I’ve not ridden it yet.

I shelved plans to fit the hydraulic clutch kit to the TTI box, space is tight in the inner cover of the gearbox and it would need some careful thinking about. I put a cable on it instead. As some of you guys already mentioned, the TTI clutch action is actually very sweet, I’ll not be bothering with the hydraulic clutch on this box.

You’ll perhaps note my artistically bent kickstart, it is, shall we say ‘functional’. My thinking now is to modify the knuckle on the RGM kickstart to face forwards, but that’s a job for another day.

As predicted, it’s an absolute bloody swine to kick over! Hopefully this will improve as things bed in and loosen up. Hopefully.

Oh yes... one more thing... it’s a runner! I only ran it briefly, but it runs. It even ticks over. It sounds freakin’ awesome and is SO eager to rev.

I’m excited.

More anon.

Linkage works well and looks good to. Kickstart works, but let’s not discuss the aesthetics of it:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant


My missus asked “what have you changed” :rolleyes: a few bits n bobs dearest:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant


Gotta love the ‘functional beauty’ of those Maney barrels:
Maney 920 & TTI transplant


Mike the pipes handiwork. Youngest daughters piano teacher was not impressed when I started it up. Whadda they know about beautiful sounds anyway?
Maney 920 & TTI transplant
 
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THAT is a bad ass bike, Eddie. Can you feel my envy? As for your kick start lever, function is beauty. The same goes for the rest of the bike.
 
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