Maney 920 & TTI transplant

Fast Eddie

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After a rather protracted period of collecting the parts as funds allowed and going backwards and forwards with different ideas, I’m finally on a push to get this thing done.

Details of the prep and the backwards and forwards thinking for this can be found here: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/920-engine-build-waffle-2016.22080/

Long story short: the existing Jim&Jim (that’s Schmidt and Comstock) 850 engine is too good to cannibalise I decided. So it, and the stock gearbox, are coming out and being checked over to be kept as ‘ready to go’ spares.

In their place is going a Maney 920 stage 3 motor, TTI heavy duty 5 speed box and Maney belt drive.

First job, out with the old engine and box etc:
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Fitting the TTI box involves removal of quite a bit of metal from the cradle. I removed the cradle from the frame to do this. Nevertheless it was still a PITA of a job!
But with the cradle out I took the opportunity to remove powder coat from the key mounting faces, something I should have done before!
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The Maney primary drive I’ll be using in place of the Norvil kit will raise the primary gearing a little, so I’ve gone down one tooth on the gearbox sprocket (from 22 to 21):
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I fitted a black finish carbon front mudguard last year and the miss-match with shiny polished stainless rear one bothered me. So I made it black whilst it’s down this far. I also scotchbrited the hitherto shiny alloy rear light as part of the overal de-blinging exercise:
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I want to go from an ‘across the frame’ battery tray style to an ‘in line’ style so that I can shuffle things around. Motivation for this is I intend to use a high level 2:1 Maney style exhaust pipe and want to mount the side panel a little further in, away from the exhaust (the frame isn’t as bad as it looks in this pic honest), here’s the first steps to re-arrange the battery tray area:
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I dropped the empty Maney cases in today to make sure the engine and cradle fit together nicely, which they do.

The cylinder head is being sent away for tumble cleaning now.

Next job on the chassis is getting the rear wheel in (as soon as AN pull there finger out).

Next job on the engine is to start assembly of the bottom end.
 
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Brooking 850

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Nigel, I run a Maney belt drive in both the Roadster (4 speed AMC box) and the race bike (5 speed TTI) with 21 tooth sprockets.Race bike rear sprocket is modified to take different size sprockets for different tracks with 44 tooth being the smallest I can fit.
2 x other mates also have Steves primary drives in their Roadsters and we all find first gear a bit taller than say the Norvil or standard set up with 42 tooth rear sprocket.
Certainly nothing to worry about and the point being that at 4000rpm (or very close to it ) you will be loping along at 70 mph.
With the race bike, the hi torque motor makes for good starts with the taller gearing, so your monster motor wont have an issue
Regards Mike
 

gortnipper

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How did you handle moving the dzus fastener? Redrill? Or are you just leaving it where it is?
 

Fast Eddie

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Gortnipper, I don’t have a dzus fastener. I have an oil tank silentblock type bobin.
Two holes on the bracket allow for stock location or 1” inboard for extra clearance with the high level pipe.
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storm42

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I do run with an offset sprocket to clear the 130 rear tire, it was that or space the gearbox over. I asked because I have in my head that the standard Norton is offset. You might be able to do something with the rear sprocket when you change it for a 520 chain.
 

Fast Eddie

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It’s a roller!

AN engine replacement jig is SO handy!

Rear wheel set up consists of hNw 520 chain kit with drum, Madass one piece axle and modified cNw speedo sensor mounting hardware and spacers... what could possibly go wrong...?

Well, after removal of the dreaded powder coat from all relevant surfaces, it all went together nicely, a tight fit, but a good fit.

And much to my relief, the chain alignment is cock on.

It’s nice when things go well, but it always leaves me feeling nervous...!


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Dommie Nator

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Any reason your rear axle nut is on the right hand side? I know it's a one piece from Don, I have one too.
 

lcrken

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Very nice, Nigel. I particularly like your side panel mounting solution.

Ken
 
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The last time I raced, I was using a 4 speed Norton box with a close ratio gear set. My overall gearing was very high, but once the bike was mobile it was perfect everywhere. First gear in that box is higher than that in Manx. In my first three rides that day, I could not get a good start, but was still up with the leaders. In the last race I got brave on the start live and revved the tits off the motor and jumped as quickly as the others. I then turned under the leaders on turn two. With your TTI box, because it is 5 speed - first gear will be lower. And the mainshaft in the TTI box is about 6 mm thicker.
 

Fast Eddie

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Any reason your rear axle nut is on the right hand side? I know it's a one piece from Don, I have one too.
Because I can leave the shaft in the drum when removing the wheel and still have (albeit slightly wobbly) the QD wheel functionality.

This is particularly handy as the chain is riveted instead of having a split link.
 

gortnipper

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Because I can leave the shaft in the drum when removing the wheel and still have (albeit slightly wobbly) the QD wheel functionality.

This is particularly handy as the chain is riveted instead of having a split link.
This is how I did it too with Don's axle.
 

Dommie Nator

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Because I can leave the shaft in the drum when removing the wheel and still have (albeit slightly wobbly) the QD wheel functionality.

This is particularly handy as the chain is riveted instead of having a split link.
I thought it might be, it works in a fashion then.
 
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