lowered bike
- Thread starter Kber45
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That's a pretty bike to be sure.
The second pic looks much better to me, but not because of lowering (frankly, I can't detect it). Must be cleaner bike/better lighting and/or angle, etc.
Why did you lower it, anyway? And how? (I had to do that on my wife's Bonnie, through raising the fork tubes in the trees and shorter rear shocks, so she could put her feet on the ground.)
The second pic looks much better to me, but not because of lowering (frankly, I can't detect it). Must be cleaner bike/better lighting and/or angle, etc.
Why did you lower it, anyway? And how? (I had to do that on my wife's Bonnie, through raising the fork tubes in the trees and shorter rear shocks, so she could put her feet on the ground.)
Well, I just noticed one thing - the drive side cases seem much more polished that the timing side ones. True? What did you do vis-a-vis polishing? I've got to do this at some point.... (it was a "winter project" but somehow never got done...go figure....)
Between the first and second picture I put on shorter rear shocks and installed shorter front forks with shorter damper tubes. It lowered it about 1.5 inches which is better for my short legs.
Also did some aluminium polishing, resafety wired the exhaust nuts, and installed a new front brake rotor (I think the rotor looks nice).
Some other stuff including new sealed battery and volatage regulator.
Kber
Also did some aluminium polishing, resafety wired the exhaust nuts, and installed a new front brake rotor (I think the rotor looks nice).
Some other stuff including new sealed battery and volatage regulator.
Kber
Commando Lowering
hi Kber45
I was interested to read your lowering comments. the bike looks great.
I have also lowered my 850 Mk11A, by 30mm front and back, as I am at 5'5" a bit challanged in the vertical department.
I did not, however, follow exactly the same method.
I will explain what I did to assist others should they choose to follow...
The rear I put an 18" wm3 rim on with a 110/80/18 Avon Roadrider tyre on. This dropped the rear end by 20mm (you need to look at the tyre diameter, especially if you are going wider). I dropped the rest by ordering shorter shocks with slightly harder spring rate and a buffer to ensure tyre dosn't bottom out on the fender.
The front was achieved by ordering Manx stantions, which are 1 & 3/8" shorter than Commando. I also shortened the damper rods by cutting the top off and re-threading on a lathe, and also shortened the springs by cutting SQUARE with a angle grinder. I DID NOT, however, cut the damper tubes. I stayed with a 19" WM2 rim and used a 90/90/19 tyre for high speed stability.
I can say the bike feels great, I can let my hands off the bars and it feels stable round corners. The only problem I have is two up I MUST click the springs up a knotch on the rear shocks, or she bottoms out on the buffers.
My bike is not, I think, as pretty as yours tho'. I would attach a photo but I can't figure out how.
Thanks to Matt Rambow of CNW for advice.
BigStu (But not big enough to ride a standard Commando!)
hi Kber45
I was interested to read your lowering comments. the bike looks great.
I have also lowered my 850 Mk11A, by 30mm front and back, as I am at 5'5" a bit challanged in the vertical department.
I did not, however, follow exactly the same method.
I will explain what I did to assist others should they choose to follow...
The rear I put an 18" wm3 rim on with a 110/80/18 Avon Roadrider tyre on. This dropped the rear end by 20mm (you need to look at the tyre diameter, especially if you are going wider). I dropped the rest by ordering shorter shocks with slightly harder spring rate and a buffer to ensure tyre dosn't bottom out on the fender.
The front was achieved by ordering Manx stantions, which are 1 & 3/8" shorter than Commando. I also shortened the damper rods by cutting the top off and re-threading on a lathe, and also shortened the springs by cutting SQUARE with a angle grinder. I DID NOT, however, cut the damper tubes. I stayed with a 19" WM2 rim and used a 90/90/19 tyre for high speed stability.
I can say the bike feels great, I can let my hands off the bars and it feels stable round corners. The only problem I have is two up I MUST click the springs up a knotch on the rear shocks, or she bottoms out on the buffers.
My bike is not, I think, as pretty as yours tho'. I would attach a photo but I can't figure out how.
Thanks to Matt Rambow of CNW for advice.
BigStu (But not big enough to ride a standard Commando!)
Kber45 said:The brit shop here in edmonton machined a set of damper tubes and set me up with new shorter forks and shocks
The picture below shows the shorter damper next to the stock one.
Did Motoparts do it? I bought my MKIII from them. I see an Old Britts rotor there too. Nice stuff and your bike turned out fantastic.
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There is a simple way to find out. When doing your maintenance you have the oil pushed out and the top nuts and gauges out of the way, let the bike down gently and slowly to the ground when the bushings touch inside check your fender clearance and also turn from lock to lock on the steering. Now I would use a lot of caution so as not to dent the fender. I have found a one inch shortening to be the max allowed. Good to do this before any such mods are made.
Dragging stuff happens at low speed turns Just off lights and parking lot maneuvers and such. High speed turns don't normally require the lean angle you would fantasize. I think you will find the lower quadrant of the mufflers touching down first. Better this than a foot peg witch will lift the tire off the pavement much quicker being more solid. You could add some black nylon to the foot pegs to get them touching first as a warning that you are going to slide momentarily.
Dragging stuff happens at low speed turns Just off lights and parking lot maneuvers and such. High speed turns don't normally require the lean angle you would fantasize. I think you will find the lower quadrant of the mufflers touching down first. Better this than a foot peg witch will lift the tire off the pavement much quicker being more solid. You could add some black nylon to the foot pegs to get them touching first as a warning that you are going to slide momentarily.
gregg
I find that I drag stuff in medium speed turns (25 45 mph stuff) and the first to touch down is the side stand tip than the next is a toss up as to the left foot peg ( I have buffed off some rubber ) or the center stand.
windy
<Dragging stuff happens at low speed turns Just off lights and parking lot maneuvers and such. High speed turns don't normally require the lean angle you would fantasize. I think you will find the lower quadrant of the mufflers touching down first. Better this than a foot peg witch will lift the tire off the pavement much quicker being more solid. You could add some black nylon to the foot pegs to get them touching first as a warning that you are going to slide momentarily.>
I find that I drag stuff in medium speed turns (25 45 mph stuff) and the first to touch down is the side stand tip than the next is a toss up as to the left foot peg ( I have buffed off some rubber ) or the center stand.
windy
<Dragging stuff happens at low speed turns Just off lights and parking lot maneuvers and such. High speed turns don't normally require the lean angle you would fantasize. I think you will find the lower quadrant of the mufflers touching down first. Better this than a foot peg witch will lift the tire off the pavement much quicker being more solid. You could add some black nylon to the foot pegs to get them touching first as a warning that you are going to slide momentarily.>
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Bill, That is true my bike has rear sets so I drag the mentioned parts.
Hi Bigstu,
I think your bike looks awesome. What type of front brake is that? Looks like a free floating rotor. Also the Z plates look cool with the black paint/powder coat. The shouldered rims are nice.
I thought about an 18" rear rim it looked like it opened up more options for tires but I have an new 19" avon supervenom on it and a spare supervenon kicking around somewhere in the garage.
I've had some scrapping on the kick stand side at lower speeds during tight cornering.
John at motorparts did the machining and set me up with the parts. He has been very patient and helpful with all of my questions.
Kber
I think your bike looks awesome. What type of front brake is that? Looks like a free floating rotor. Also the Z plates look cool with the black paint/powder coat. The shouldered rims are nice.
I thought about an 18" rear rim it looked like it opened up more options for tires but I have an new 19" avon supervenom on it and a spare supervenon kicking around somewhere in the garage.
I've had some scrapping on the kick stand side at lower speeds during tight cornering.
John at motorparts did the machining and set me up with the parts. He has been very patient and helpful with all of my questions.
Kber
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