Lock Washers:Exhaust Nutz

namibchris · May 28, 2015

This is an absurdly simple question but I really don't want to screw this up. If someone can stop laughing long enough to post some instructions I would be very grateful.

When I bought my bike it did not have the exhaust lock washers. Just want to get them installed. last thing to do. Bike is licensed and ready to ride.

Thanks as always

Paul W · May 28, 2015

Slide the lock washer first and then nut over the exhaust pipe the correct way around. The two vertical prongs as shown goes between the fins on the head. Then once you have tightened the exhaust nut to your desired tightness the opposite prongs can be bent or tapped with a drift into the exhaust nut finning thus locking the nut in place so as it does not undo. Hope this helps!
Regards,
Paul.

cjandme · May 28, 2015

Hey there namibchris, many folks like to leave those off because they can lead to messed up exhaust threads, by allowing the nut to back off a bit (especially if it wasn't really good'n tight to begin with before setting the locking tabs. Anyway one side of the locking tabs goes to the cooling fins and the other tabs get bent to the nut fins. Cj

norton73 · May 28, 2015

If you use them, give them a twist so they are no longer flat, the rattling will drive you nuts (or maybe it's just me).

I don't use them, I coat the threads with red RTV, crank the nuts down, ride, cool, tighten, ride, cool, repeat a couple times. seems to work for me.

Anonymous · May 28, 2015

norton73 said:
If you use them, give them a twist so they are no longer flat, the rattling will drive you nuts (or maybe it's just me).

I don't use them, I coat the threads with red RTV, crank the nuts down, ride, cool, tighten, ride, cool, repeat a couple times. seems to work for me.

I agree, if you use them then give them a kink across the middle to stop rattling.
Ta.

Biscuit · May 28, 2015

cjandme said:
Hey there namibchris, many folks like to leave those off because they can lead to messed up exhaust threads, by allowing the nut to back off a bit (especially if it wasn't really good'n tight to begin with before setting the locking tabs.

Exactly right! Seen it! Big nut rattles back and forth not really going anywhere 'cause of the lock but effectively munching on the soft aluminum exhaust por threads. Particularly bad if you have an 850 with the big heavy cast exhaust nuts. (still wish more people would put what model we're talking about in their profile)

A better way is to safety wire one of the nut fins to an exhaust cap nut in the direction that will pull clockwise.

namibchris · May 28, 2015

norton73 said:
If you use them, give them a twist so they are no longer flat, the rattling will drive you nuts (or maybe it's just me).

I don't use them, I coat the threads with red RTV, crank the nuts down, ride, cool, tighten, ride, cool, repeat a couple times. seems to work for me.

Ok what is red RTV? Remember I live off the edge of the map in Africa......

Biscuit · May 28, 2015

It is a silicone hi-temp gasket maker. I think you would do better with a never seize type product to prevent thread galling.

namibchris · May 28, 2015

Biscuit said:
cjandme said:

Hey there namibchris, many folks like to leave those off because they can lead to messed up exhaust threads, by allowing the nut to back off a bit (especially if it wasn't really good'n tight to begin with before setting the locking tabs.

Click to expand...

Exactly right! Seen it! Big nut rattles back and forth not really going anywhere 'cause of the lock but effectively munching on the soft aluminum exhaust por threads. Particularly bad if you have an 850 with the big heavy cast exhaust nuts. (still wish more people would put what model we're talking about in their profile)

A better way is to safety wire one of the nut fins to an exhaust cap nut in the direction that will pull clockwise.

Ahhh Sorry 1971 Commando Fastback, only one in Namibia, sat in a garage for 15 years before I rescued it.

namibchris · May 28, 2015

Biscuit said:
It is a silicone hi-temp gasket maker. I think you would do better with a never seize type product to prevent thread galling.

Thanks for that I shall endeavor to find something High Temp, flexible that wont set up making removal impossible. I'm pretty certain there will be something here. I am pretty well convinced at this point that the washers are a bad way to go. Not to keen on drilling holes in things.....

Biscuit · May 28, 2015

Some people do drill holes for the locking wire but I have just l just looped it around an appropriate exhaust nut fin, twisted it, then another loop around an exhaust cap nut. Twist again (like we did last summer) and you're done.

Torontonian · May 28, 2015

Take those #$%@ things , and toss them into a field of corn. RTV High Heat Silicone smeared all over the threads , then tighten up as much as possible , then drive , then tighten up again... with all your strength. No lockwires unless racing. Trust me. :wink:

ewgoforth · May 28, 2015

Biscuit said:
Some people do drill holes for the locking wire but I have just l just looped it around an appropriate exhaust nut fin, twisted it, then another loop around an exhaust cap nut. Twist again (like we did last summer) and you're done.

I used to lockwire my exhaust nuts, but something bedded in a bit after a bunch of hours and the right nut was no longer tight, although the lockwire prevented it from loosening. It beat up the threads in the head. The threads on that side work now, but they need to be replaced eventually.

I think you're better off without the lock tabs or safety wire. Just tighten after each heat cycle for the first few rides and then check every oil change or so after that. One solution that I think would work, although it's aesthetically not so great, is a spring connecting the two exhaust nuts diagonally such that each tries to tighten the other one. I've seen one bike set up this way in the mid nineties.

-Eric

cjandme · May 28, 2015

ewgoforth said:
.......... One solution that I think would work, although it's aesthetically not so great, is a spring connecting the two exhaust nuts diagonally such that each tries to tighten the other one........-Eric

Nice, thanks for the tip Eric. I hadn't thought of that, or ever seen or heard of it being done in this application. Another reason I love this forum

Biscuit · May 29, 2015

There is an exception to everything, but if lock wire is properly tensioned in the right direction it will not allow a fastener to back off and will exert a lot more tension than a spring. The aviation industry can't be wrong. Right about torqueing those nuts after each heat cycle for a while though. In reality three or four will do it.

ewgoforth · May 29, 2015

Mine was looped over the rocker cover nuts and snug but not so tight that I couldn't slip it back over the nuts when I would R and R the valve covers. If it were tight enough it would probably have worked better, but you'd have to replace the wire when you checked the valves or find a different anchor point.

1up3down · May 29, 2015

I have been safety wiring my nuts for decades, easy enough to do and they do not loosen

don't understand any negatives about doing so

Torontonian · May 29, 2015

Nothin' wrong with safety wire , just make sure the stoopid retainers are tossed real far into neverusemeland. :roll:

namibchris · May 30, 2015

Torontonian said:
Take those #$%@ things , and toss them into a field of corn. RTV High Heat Silicone smeared all over the threads , then tighten up as much as possible , then drive , then tighten up again... with all your strength. No lockwires unless racing. Trust me. :wink:

I do not have the special exhaust tool, is there an option or do I need to fabricate one???

Torontonian · May 30, 2015

Oh, a very good question. The best tool is actually an airhead BMW exhaust nut wrench ! But you can cut one and make one yourself or just buy the special tool. If you own a Norton you MUST have it. So be it ,ride on. :idea:

Lock Washers:Exhaust Nutz

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