LED (2018)

Niagara850 · Apr 16, 2020

I installed a BPF LED I recently picked up from Walridge, looks the same as the Goff Daylighter unit. + ground. My high beam warning is lit when in low beam goes out on like lazyeye6 but was like that before, swapping the blue/white and blue/green turns out the warning light but high beam stays on in both positions. Doesn't make sense if I follow wiring diagram unless the handlebar switch isn't wired properly. Its interesting that the wiring diagram shows the dip switch on the RH Handlebar Switch while its on the left on the bike and in the manual.

Tornado · Apr 16, 2020

See my post, last on previous page of this thread.

Regarding RH vs LH switches, there is a line in either workshop or riders guide where it states they. Can be easily swapped sides as needed. One of the first things I did once bike was rideable. I could not manage having throttle, brake and indicators controlled by one right hand. Now indicators live on LH side. I swapped the emerge shut down red button to top LH, horn lower LH while high beam toggle on RH moves up for dip, down for high beam, because the switch mouldings forced it to be that way (cannot invert it without hacking stuff).

gortnipper · Apr 16, 2020

As noted, with these Daylighter LED bulbs, simply swap the hi and low beam wires into the bulbs harness.

If you have a hi beam indicator lamp, it will not work after doing this. You can simply disconnect it to have the bulb work, or there is a workaround.

Get an 1n4004 diode, they are dirt cheap at a DIY electronics shop and connect it inline with the warning indicator bulb, after where the feed splits from the bulb to the warning light.

Note that they are directional, and the red tagged end needs to go "downstream" towards the indicator bulb side.

I simply made a wire jumper with a male bullet on one end and a female on the other, and crimped in the diode in between. Wrapped the whole thing in shrink wrap.

Both the warning indicator as well as hi/lo beams should now function correctly. 100% reversible in seconds.

L.A.B. · Apr 17, 2020

Niagara850 said:
swapping the blue/white and blue/green

Should be blue/white and blue/red.

Niagara850 said:
Its interesting that the wiring diagram shows the dip switch on the RH Handlebar Switch while its on the left on the bike and in the manual.

The factory swapped the switch clusters over during '72 due to "user requests for
right-hand operation of the direction indicators" but wiring diagrams show the previous arrangement.

Danno · Apr 17, 2020

<----That is all LED. I think I got nearly everything but the headlight bulb from Classic British Spares.

maylar · Apr 17, 2020

gortnipper said:
Get an 1n4004 diode, they are dirt cheap at a DIY electronics shop and connect it inline with the warning indicator bulb, after where the feed splits from the bulb to the warning light.

The diode should go in the high (main) beam wire to the bulb, to prevent leakage current from finding a return path to ground through the warning lamp. Putting it in the warning lamp circuit won't change anything.

And a 1N4001 is only good for one amp of current. For a 30 watt LED you'd need a 5 amp diode like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/semtech-corporation/1N5554C-TR/1N5554C-CT-ND/7431016

Tornado · Apr 17, 2020

maylar said:
The diode should go in the high (main) beam wire to the bulb, to prevent leakage current from finding a return path to ground through the warning lamp. Putting it in the warning lamp circuit won't change anything.

And a 1N4001 is only good for one amp of current. For a 30 watt LED you'd need a 5 amp diode like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/semtech-corporation/1N5554C-TR/1N5554C-CT-ND/7431016

Or an LED in the warning lamp socket is a solution.

maylar · Apr 17, 2020

Tornado said:
Or an LED in the warning lamp socket is a solution.

No. That won't prevent the main beam from coming on when the dip beam is powered. Isn't that the issue here, or is it something else?

Tornado · Apr 17, 2020

maylar said:
No. That won't prevent the main beam from coming on when the dip beam is powered. Isn't that the issue here, or is it something else?

Mine is working fine with the LED in the Warning Lamp, running the BPF "Double-Dipper" lamp unit (sourced from Dynamo Conversions in the UK). One of the issues reports in this thread was the warning light staying on in the dipped switch mode. The warning LED fixed that for me. This is what I ordered:

https://www.classicbritishspares.co...g-light-led-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=986bccfd6&_ss=r

maylar · Apr 17, 2020

Tornado said:
Mine is working fine with the LED in the Warning Lamp, running the BPF "Double-Dipper" lamp unit (sourced from Dynamo Conversions in the UK). One of the issues reports in this thread was the warning light staying on in the dipped switch mode. The warning LED fixed that for me. This is what I ordered:

https://www.classicbritishspares.co...g-light-led-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=986bccfd6&_ss=r

I don't see how it would matter. If the warning light is being sourced by current coming out of the main beam LEDs it'll still find a path to ground through an LED warning light. No?

gortnipper · Apr 17, 2020

maylar said:
The diode should go in the high (main) beam wire to the bulb, to prevent leakage current from finding a return path to ground through the warning lamp. Putting it in the warning lamp circuit won't change anything.

And a 1N4001 is only good for one amp of current. For a 30 watt LED you'd need a 5 amp diode like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/semtech-corporation/1N5554C-TR/1N5554C-CT-ND/7431016

Go for it. I tried it there - failed. I tried it before the warning light. Worked.

gortnipper · Apr 17, 2020

maylar said:
No. That won't prevent the main beam from coming on when the dip beam is powered. Isn't that the issue here, or is it something else?

You have to flip the main/dip wires for the Daylighter bulbs to work correctly (but they only do so when the warning light is disconnected, or connected with an inline diode).

maylar said:
I don't see how it would matter. If the warning light is being sourced by current coming out of the main beam LEDs it'll still find a path to ground through an LED warning light. No?

The warning light is being sourced via the switch (just as the LED) - not the LED - the wires branch before the LED.

Note in this schematic, you have to take the UW and UR from the switch and flip them. The UW from the double female bullet junction is where you put the diode, and continues to the warning light.

Fast Eddie · Apr 18, 2020

I’ve fitted LED bulbs from Paul Goff to 4 bikes recently, all of them old Brits, 2 were neg earth and 2 pos earth.

I didn’t have ANY of the issues discussed here. Not sure what I did wrong...

gortnipper · Apr 18, 2020

It's his new batch. Workaround came from him.

Scout63 · Apr 18, 2020

olympus said:
The pins on the Goff unit are opposite to normal.. simply swap the wiring over

Ohhhhhhhh. That explains a lot. I bought the set - headlight, tail light, pilot and gauges from Paul Goff. Love them.

Fast Eddie · Apr 18, 2020

gortnipper said:
It's his new batch. Workaround came from him.

hmmmm... progress huh....?!

maylar · Apr 18, 2020

gortnipper said:
Note in this schematic, you have to take the UW and UR from the switch and flip them. The UW from the double female bullet junction is where you put the diode, and continues to the warning light.

Forgive me for being a bit thick headed... must be the Irish in me.

Power to the warning light is DC, at whatever polarity your wiring provides. Putting a diode in series with it would have no effect other than preventing it from turning on at all if the diode was blocking the applied voltage. I'm not doubting your results, I just don't understand what the diode actually does.

And I'm going to take this opportunity to offer an apology to @marshg246, who had a completely different problem in a previous thread. I failed to comprehend the "leakage" issue with some LED headlamps where the main beam would illuminate with dip beam selected. Sorry, Greg and thanks for the education.

Tornado · Apr 18, 2020

gortnipper said:
You have to flip the main/dip wires for the Daylighter bulbs to work correctly (but they only do so when the warning light is disconnected, or connected with an inline diode).

The warning light is being sourced via the switch (just as the LED) - not the LED - the wires branch before the LED.

View attachment 15605

Note in this schematic, you have to take the UW and UR from the switch and flip them. The UW from the double female bullet junction is where you put the diode, and continues to the warning light.

I think the issue is we don't have a simple two filament bulb with the LED unit. It's a black box inside the bulb. We have internal circuitry for voltage control, using modern micro components. There is no doubt some pathways that can bleed current to give rise to the issues we see on our bikes. Can't just look at the bike schematic.

gortnipper · Apr 18, 2020

I dont know. I am not an EE. All I know is that I dicked around on this for two days and this is how I got it to work correctly.

Niagara850 · Apr 18, 2020

LAB- yes typo... Blue/red is the low beam circuit

Back current hmm. A LED indicator bulb would act as a diode to block. My high beam indicator lit on low beam with the incandescent lights but I expect the blue/white , blue/red flip in the shell would have worked. The LED bulb internal circuitry might be at play as the flip has high beam in both positions. Wonder if the wiring in the inside the switch is reversed. Any diagrams or pics of the terminals and the wiring colours of the switch internals. I've lived with this for years but have the time now to take a look.

LED (2018)

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