Kickstart Shaft 71 Commando

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I have no long time experience with kick start levers on a 750 Norton as yet. A couple of remarks which may help:

But I do


* Use genuine levers which lacks teeth in a segment of about +- 45 degrees measured from the lower point of axle bore.

My 750 didn't

* The 3/8 bolt _does_ engage with the groove in the shaft on genuine levers.

My 750 3/8 bolt does not engage with the groove. It does now that I have put a 7/16 O D bush on the bolt.

* The 3/8 bolt _is_ sufficient to clamp the splined end of lever.

Your joking of course!!

* Both k/s lever and shaft needs to have prestine splines to ensure trouble-free operation over time. Bodges are as always short-lived.

Yes, the original design is a bodge. Thanks for informing us.

* Use genuine parts _only_ (I make an exception for the RGM kicker which appear to be well made).

Why have we made a lot of modifications to these bikes over the years if genuine parts are so good.

* -Knut

My 1971 750 was very low mileage and very original when I got it in 1973. The kick start was fucked then. So was the side stand arrangement. So was the swing arm pivot.

Go Figure

Dereck
 
Ordered all the parts I thought I’d need pulled the inner cover off the gearbox and realised I need a few more. And that’s life.
Question. 1. The nut on the gearbox mainshaft, does it have a washer behind it? What type and what torque should the nut have? I ask cause it had no washer n the nut was loose on inspection n somebody had attacked it with a chisel to loosen it previously. And ain’t that life!
Big box from Andover to Australia took about 10 days. Now waiting on a smaller box.
RGM kicker took about 14 days.
Thanks
Simon
 
You should download a workshop manual to start with. Free & easy. It will answer many questions, and also provide exploded drawings that are very helpful.
JMWO
 
I’ve read somewhere that there is a washer behind the nut on the gear box main shaft but cannot find it again. Workshop manuals fuck I’ve got library off em. If you can’t answer the question why respond with a flippant response.
 
Sorry Concours that was uncalled for. It’s 10pm in Australia
 
Short of machining the outer cover for a seal, the o-ring can be substituted with a quad-ring - far superior and longer lasting, and no machining required.
 
nopdog said:
The nut on the gearbox mainshaft, does it have a washer behind it?
Click to expand...

No (not one in the parts book and Mick Hemmings confirms in his gearbox rebuild video).

nopdog said:
What type...
Click to expand...

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
Hexagon size is 1/2" Whitworth (0.920") if that's what you were asking.


nopdog said:
...and what torque should the nut have?
Click to expand...

Section A, Torque Settings:

"Mainshaft nut:....40/50 ft./lb..."
(with Loctite)
 
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On 2 of my Norton Kickstart Levers I have tapped out the 3/8 NF thread all the way through the forging. Then I have purchased a grade 8 socket head cap screw which engages the whole thread. This set up has more than enough power to completely clamp the splines on the kickstart shaft. (No, not a joke :) ) Alternatively the kick start forging could be drilled out and tapped for a 7/16 NF. The main thing people get wrong is not using a strong enough cap screw (Bolt). Grade 8 should be minimum. Grade 5 is too soft and Stainless steel is too soft (in most stainless steel grades). Grade 10 is better and if the threads in the kickstarter are gone a good grade 8 nut can be used with a longer bolt. AN hardware (Aircraft grade) is wonderful but not available to everyone.

A rule of thumb for bolts and nuts: If thread engagement is 1.5 x the diameter of the bolt the bolt will shear before the thread will strip. (Assuming both are of the same grade material.)
 
There was some advice on kickstarter spline modification on older threads, whereby taking a file or hacksaw blade to slightly widen the gap of the clamp. This allows for more closing force on splines. Also, filing off the last one or two splines at the clamp gap allows better engagement of the rest.
 
How far can you guys go off topic before you guys call it off topic. For fucks sake!!!!!
 
EstuaryBoy said:
Answered comprehensively in posts #2 and #3, no?
Click to expand...
Well, the original question was, yes.

But then in post #4 it got expanded somewhat by the OP:

“I’ll renew the shaft, Kicker, O ring (yes it’s leaking), inner and outer gaskets. Is there any else that should be replaced whilst it’s apart.
I know that's a huge ask, but in a perfect world. I'll check everything when apart”.
 
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