Kickstart Shaft 71 Commando

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nopdog

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I know you can help.
71 Commando kicker is flopping around on the shaft.
Both kicker and shaft are badly worn where they attach. I'd say both original.
Is it possible to replace the kicker shaft with the gear box in the fame?
Looking at the manual it looks like the inner cover has to be removed.

Thanks in advance.
Simon
 
I know you can help.
71 Commando kicker is flopping around on the shaft.
Both kicker and shaft are badly worn where they attach. I'd say both original.
Is it possible to replace the kicker shaft with the gear box in the fame?
Looking at the manual it looks like the inner cover has to be removed.

Thanks in advance.
Simon
Yes, you can do this with the gearbox in the frame. You will need to remove both the outer and the inner cover to replace the kickstart shaft. Upgrades to the original leaking kickstart o-ring are available. Not that hard to do.
 
Yes it can the nuts are WW so need WW socket to fit, the KS shaft fits in the inner cover, its not a hard job and when the inner cover is off you can inspect the kick start gear as well all the gears, when replacing the shaft make sure you also replace the KS pawl as they also wear.

Ashley
 
Thanks for that.
Gearbox very smooth at the moment.
I’ll renew the shaft, Kicker, O ring (yes it’s leaking), inner and outer gaskets. Is there any else that should be replaced whilst it’s apart.
I know that's a huge ask, but in a perfect world. I'll check everything when apart.
Andover has the kickstart shaft with pawl assembly in stock.
Also shaft seal X ring type. Is this the upgraded version needed.
This will will hopefully be all that's needed.
Simon
 
Thanks for that.
Gearbox very smooth at the moment.
I’ll renew the shaft, Kicker, O ring (yes it’s leaking), inner and outer gaskets. Is there any else that should be replaced whilst it’s apart.
I know that's a huge ask, but in a perfect world. I'll check everything when apart.
Andover has the kickstart shaft with pawl assembly in stock.
Also shaft seal X ring type. Is this the upgraded version needed.
This will will hopefully be all that's needed.
Simon
I'd buy a new 04.0038 on general principle while you're in there, just another £2.
 
Thanks. Keep it coming. I'm getting a good list together. If I'm getting parts from the other side of the planet might as well make at a big one.
Little bit off topic but still 71 750 Commando.
Mufflers
I currently have the original Dunstall (I think) but they are scraped a bit and one has a small hole in it.
Where would be the best place to order new ones of quality.

Simon
 
Thanks. Keep it coming. I'm getting a good list together. If I'm getting parts from the other side of the planet might as well make at a big one.
Little bit off topic but still 71 750 Commando.
Mufflers
I currently have the original Dunstall (I think) but they are scraped a bit and one has a small hole in it.
Where would be the best place to order new ones of quality.

Simon
Maybe http://www.vikingexhaust.com/ I don't think they're that far away.
 
Did the early models have the problems with the shit layshaft bearing, being a 71 model, I am sure if it did it would have blown a long time ago, I think it was mostly the 850s that had the problem, if everything is shifting right and smooth and the shafts spinning OK, but when the inner cover is off its easy to inspect everything inside the GB, make sure all the bonze bushes are in good condition as well if replacing the KS might be good to replace the KS spring.

Ashley
 
The problem with this kick start set up is its a very poor design. Relying on a 3/8 UNF bolt the compress that huge chunk of steel is ridiculous. That chunk of metal needs a 3/4 UNF bolt to have the power required. The 3/8 bolt isn't even thick enough to engage with the groove in the shaft. Even if you use a 30 inch strong-bar to tighten that 3/8 bolt, and wind the snot out of it, it will become loose after only a small number of kicks. [ and we all know it often takes more the one kick to get them started. ]

I have made quite a few modifications to both my original kick start levers on my 2 bikes but the 3/8 bolt is just not beefy enough to cope with how tight it needs to be.

I suggest you look for another kick start lever with a smaller section where it clamps on the kick start shaft. Maybe the RGM longer kick starter lever option.

A lever that stays tight, will never flog out the splines
.

Dereck

PS, "X" rings are not up to the job. Get a proper hydraulic lip seal. That will have a chance of stopping the leak, especially if you have very little wear in the bearing area.
 
I looked at the RGM Kickstart lever. I could only find non folding ones. What’s the benefit of that?
 
R.P.P.S. (Replace the Portuguese Piece of S***), aka the layshaft bearing.

A "71 Commando" shouldn't have the Portuguese PoS. layshaft bearing, however,...

Did the early models have the problems with the shit layshaft bearing, being a 71 model, I am sure if it did it would have blown a long time ago, I think it was mostly the 850s that had the problem,

Yes, mostly 850s (especially those with the Portuguese brass cage bearing) although 750 layshaft bearing failure seems to be less common it isn't unknown so the standard layshaft ball bearing should be replaced with the 06.7710 roller bearing upgrade (or FAG 6203 TB P6 C3 ball bearing).

Is there any else that should be replaced whilst it’s apart.

Probably the layshaft 1st gear bush:
 
If diving into the GB there are full rebuild kits from Andover and other suppliers with all needed gaskets, bushes, seals, springs. The clutch operating lever on my 850 was very worn.

There are several write ups on the rebuild job, one on OldBrits, and an excellent Dvd video by Mick Hemmings. I believe this can be found on INOA site. I have the dvd and was able to rebuild without removing GB from bike.
 
The problem with this kick start set up is its a very poor design. Relying on a 3/8 UNF bolt the compress that huge chunk of steel is ridiculous. That chunk of metal needs a 3/4 UNF bolt to have the power required. The 3/8 bolt isn't even thick enough to engage with the groove in the shaft. Even if you use a 30 inch strong-bar to tighten that 3/8 bolt, and wind the snot out of it, it will become loose after only a small number of kicks. [ and we all know it often takes more the one kick to get them started. ]

I have made quite a few modifications to both my original kick start levers on my 2 bikes but the 3/8 bolt is just not beefy enough to cope with how tight it needs to be.

I have no long time experience with kick start levers on a 750 Norton as yet. A couple of remarks which may help:
* Use genuine levers which lacks teeth in a segment of about +- 45 degrees measured from the lower point of axle bore.
* The 3/8 bolt _does_ engage with the groove in the shaft on genuine levers.
* The 3/8 bolt _is_ sufficient to clamp the splined end of lever.
* Both k/s lever and shaft needs to have prestine splines to ensure trouble-free operation over time. Bodges are as always short-lived.
* Use genuine parts _only_ (I make an exception for the RGM kicker which appear to be well made).

-Knut
 
A "71 Commando" shouldn't have the Portuguese PoS. layshaft bearing, however,...



Yes, mostly 850s (especially those with the Portuguese brass cage bearing) although 750 layshaft bearing failure seems to be less common it isn't unknown so the standard layshaft ball bearing should be replaced with the 06.7710 roller bearing upgrade (or FAG 6203 TB P6 C3 ball bearing).



Probably the layshaft 1st gear bush:
My Dec ‘71 build ‘72 750 had a bad layshaft bearing that did the bump the back of my leg with the kick start. I replaced it with the roller bearing in 1999.
 
I have had the RGM folding kicker on my Norton for over 8 years now and hasn't come loose at all it that time, the best thing is its longer and makes kicking the Norton to life a lot easier , folds away so no more kicker in the back of the leg and now can have my foot of the foot peg fully, its worth every penny, I have gone through 2 stock kickers, well the original one was stolen and the second one flogged out on the spline, one thing I did was when my second one was wearing on the spline I drilled the end of the kicker so a longer bolt could be threaded through the kicker and also put a nut on the end of the bolt, this stopped the kicker from coming loose which made the kicker last longer, but now with the RGM folding kicker no more problems.
Being a 71 model maybe its time to do a complete gear box rebuild while you are in there, better safe than sorry later down the road, but once you pull the inner case off you will be able to inspect all parts inside your gear box.

Ashley
 
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