K2F Uneven Spark on 650SS

When you 1st mentioned this 'method' here, you gave NO detail whatsover.
I asked for details.

I'd opine that it doesn't come much vaguer than that...
 
skipsoldbikes said:
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The original full name of BTH was in fact: British Thomson-Houston, although nearly no one calls them that, & in print in nearly every parts book I own it is shortened to BTH, and I guess if one wants to get technical, the company name was sold & its new owners call themselves "BTH Components LTD." and also hold all rights & logos . Speaking of logos, if you look at the BTH logo (or BT-H if you choose) you will see a circle with 3 "curls" on its inside. Look familiar? Thats because BTH was a subsidiary of the American company GE (General Electric).
:)

Yes, I've got Wikipedia too.

It's still only you who calls it BT&H.
 
Now.......don't get your Kilt in a bunch :D It was a simple typing error. I actually call them BTH as can be seen on all my advertising. WIKi does have a lot of info on the brand, but I dont think they mention the cross over on the logo. I got that info years ago from a friend whose father was a machinist at BTH many years ago before he emigrated to the USA. Interesting history on the company. They really did make a nice mag, a real pleasure to work on compared to the Lucas. They also command very high prices today.
 
Rohan said:
When you 1st mentioned this 'method' here, you gave NO detail whatsover.
I asked for details.

I'd opine that it doesn't come much vaguer than that...

So, you had no knowledge of this method of correcting the sparks in the K2F magnetos then :?:
 
We had no idea what you were talking about when you first mentioned it. !

ALL you mentioned was some mysterious magic method of correcting the timing - that someone you knew was doing.
Which is why I asked for some detail !!
You had to go back to them to ask how it was done ??
 
Righto, try this little test then.

"Take the blue-yellow coded wire, connect it to the active terminal, press the reset button and wait for the buzzer to indicate its live".

WE all know exactly what this is talking about, don't WE.
 
All good now!!
Here's how I fixed it with the help of TexasSlick......
Checked points gap at 50 degrees ATDC and had 12 thou on one side and 17 on the other. Also checked the timing with the multimeter and alligator clips, removing centre bolt to do so, and had 28 degrees and 35 degrees at full advance.
I then removed the points and then (with great difficulty) the cam ring and tested it for true profile with the vernier callipers and found it to be good within a thou (.112" on the lowest point to .152" on the top of the ramp on both sides) which meant that the position of the ring in the housing was the most likely culprit.
I then sanded .002" off the 17 thou side and cleaned the whole ring up and refitted it in the housing with the points bolted on. The 17 thou side turned into 15 and the 12 had turned into 13 or 14, so not happy with this I decided to try it again and removed another thou off the ring and applied some cellophane tape to the other side, and tried again.
I had gone too far, and the points values swapped around!
This time all I did was remove the cellophane tape and tried it again and still had a nice snug fit in the housing.
I don't know why but I had 16 thou on both sides, but at least it was even!! I brought the points gap back to 12 thou and checked the timing again.....it was dead on 28 degrees on both sides! Took it for a ride and all pinging gone, and it's running smoother and has more power than it's had yet.
It seems to me to be a permanent fix too, not a bodge.
Thanks to TexasSlick for staying up through the night to guide me through this!!!
 
I appreciate the nod, Tbolt.....pay it forward.....help keep those old Nortie girlies running!
 
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