Just a late night quicky

comnoz · Sep 10, 2014

After breaking my rear drive belt in the salt last week I realized that if Irken had not been handy with his big toolbox full of Norton tools I would have been hurting. This should make things a lot easier and is nice and easy to pack in my toolkit. Jim

kerinorton · Sep 10, 2014

what a brilliant and simple idea.

Hobot · Sep 10, 2014

Someone is missing something fairly important - as I could change belts on Ms Peel w/o any tools but to open sealed case cover. May not believe hobot but those that run record making belt driven everything motorcycle dragsters, set belt tension, short and narrow to wide and long, same as i found the hard way. Past Peel had a holely belt, its biggest hole I can stick a pencil though but worked 1000's of miles further after crank end nut got under belt, similar to comnoz small rock. I have 2 small 1/4" ally plate cut off scraps that can fit inside this red tool that can block both center and outer in any combination of torque needs w/o chain or belt involved. 70k miles may of weakened belt to break but a mystery why a tool needed to change yours. Jim puts iron butt mileage on but I think this is his 2nd belt to go in a few years, so something being mis understood belt tension wise.

comnoz · Sep 10, 2014

Changing the front belt is a piece of cake. There is enough play it will slip off the clutch drum and the new one will slip right back on.

The part that would have been hard without a clutch locking tool is removing the mainshaft nut when there was no rear drive belt. There was nothing to stop the clutch center from turning.

At home it's a piece of cake. Just hit it with the air gun. Jim

Hobot · Sep 11, 2014

OHhhhh, blanked out on need to remove clutch for drive belt but still suggest the Al plate solution which could also be configured to do another vital task or just drilled out as key fob charms. One rectangle plate locks inner/outer and another thinner/longer plate hooks-snags into chain or belt teeth and against the inner cover center mount post from above or below to for cw or ccw fixing. Your gizmo seems to require an extra hand and tool-lever to hold clutch straining steady.

Peel spring compressor was bolted to her skid plate for a bow figurine uni-breast look.

Btw Nice welding late night joker. How would ya weld a 1/2" stud to a 1/2" wide nut flat perpendicular to nut bore? Or would it be more efficient to cut 1/2" steel to shape, bore-tap threads for nut part then thread the stalk corners, as the flats missing threads are not needed.

auldblue · Sep 11, 2014

comnoz said:
Changing the front belt is a piece of cake. There is enough play it will slip off the clutch drum and the new one will slip right back on.

The part that would have been hard without a clutch locking tool is removing the mainshaft nut when there was no rear drive belt. There was nothing to stop the clutch center from turning.

At home it's a piece of cake. Just hit it with the air gun. Jim

The last time I mention air gun on here I got my balls chewed by all and sundry, glad I'm not the only person that doesn't think it's sacralidge!

J

Nater_Potater · Sep 11, 2014

auldblue said:
comnoz said:

Changing the front belt is a piece of cake. There is enough play it will slip off the clutch drum and the new one will slip right back on.

The part that would have been hard without a clutch locking tool is removing the mainshaft nut when there was no rear drive belt. There was nothing to stop the clutch center from turning.

At home it's a piece of cake. Just hit it with the air gun. Jim

Click to expand...

The last time I mention air gun on here I got my balls chewed by all and sundry, glad I'm not the only person that doesn't think it's sacralidge!

J

I use the air gun all day long to take things apart! After watching my buddy's brother drive an overly long bolt through the water jacket of their freshly rebuilt 302 Ford, I promised myself to never repeat his mistake.

debby · Sep 11, 2014

Clever idea Jim, but what is that big nut for? Can't you just slip the piece in place and remove it when done?

And how do you safely lock the motor with a belt primary? With chain drive you can wedge a screwdriver handle or a piece of wood between the chain and sprocket. Ghetto, but it works.

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

auldblue said:
The last time I mention air gun on here I got my balls chewed by all and sundry, glad I'm not the only person that doesn't think it's sacralidge!

J

They definitely have a time and place. Pro wrenches would never make a living without one.

I have also heard "They are great for taking your own car apart and putting someone else's car together". Jim

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

debby said:
Clever idea Jim, but what is that big nut for? Can't you just slip the piece in place and remove it when done?

And how do you safely lock the motor with a belt primary? With chain drive you can wedge a screwdriver handle or a piece of wood between the chain and sprocket. Ghetto, but it works.

The big nut is for using a wrench to hold the motor for alternator nut removal. [if the primary belt is intact] A 3/4 inch wrench on it stops against the alternator.
I also have about a 3 inch long strip of 1/8th aluminum that will go between a tooth on the crank sprocket and a tooth on the clutch drum to hold the crank when the primary belt is not intact. Jim

Hobot · Sep 11, 2014

Auto mechanics now have tiny battery power impact drivers that they like and use a lot as can get into tighter places w/o hoses or extra mass.

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

Here is the ultralight ABS clutch spring tool that resides in my sidecover. Jim

Hobot · Sep 11, 2014

Cool just toss in a tiny battery impactor and do strain-less road side over hauls for your own and others. I figure if I'm going far enough to want much tools I'm already cargo loaded so over kill to bother with ABS compressor.

Nater_Potater · Sep 11, 2014

hobot said:

I like that! Are they just a couple of aluminum blocks whittled to size?

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

hobot said:
Cool just toss in a tiny battery impactor and do strain-less road side over hauls for your own and others. I figure if I'm going far enough to want much tools I'm already cargo loaded so over kill to bother with ABS compressor.

That could work but the genset needed to keep the batteries up might get a little hard to pack.

Matt Spencer · Sep 11, 2014

Is It LUCAS ? :mrgreen:

Hobot · Sep 11, 2014

I was able to pick up some shop scrap cut offs that I didn't have to do a thing too plus the way they are sheared leaves edges with some slope for bit of proudness that snags/hooks up definitively. Sizing is not that critical as the rotations take up slack so just close enough works a treat. Al don't mare the steel or ally teeth either. Go visit upscale auto shop to be impressed how hard and long those tiny battery impactors work to point may only need one battery for most an over haul. I don't have one and may be awhile d/t big hits recently and not many areas power tools actually fit or help any. Cover screws maybe and crank nut about only places I'd can think of.

Measured the 2 blocks/plates to aid selection. I've a few more.
1.755" x 1.55" and 2.153" x .666".

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

hobot said:
I was able to pick up some shop scrap cut offs that I didn't have to do a thing too plus the way they are sheared leaves edges with some slope for bit of proudness that snags/hooks up definitively. Sizing is not that critical as the rotations take up slack so just close enough works a treat. Al don't mare the steel or ally teeth either. Go visit upscale auto shop to be impressed how hard and long those tiny battery impactors work to point may only need one battery for most an over haul. I don't have one and may be awhile d/t big hits recently and not many areas power tools actually fit or help any. Cover screws maybe and crank nut about only places I'd can think of.

Measured the 2 blocks/plates to aid selection. I've a few more.
1.755" x 1.55" and 2.153" x .666".

I have a snap-on battery impact. It will never replace an air impact. :?

Hobot · Sep 11, 2014

I've air and battery & corded tools but about never need nor want to use them so pray tell where you would use a power tool on a Commando other than say tight fork cap nuts or crank nut rusted on? Power grinders and drills do way more for me. Compressed air is great to clean engine nooks before digging in.

Btw what tool is used on the big nut in your red box clutch locker?

comnoz · Sep 11, 2014

hobot said:
I've air and battery & corded tools but about never need nor want to use them so pray tell where you would use a power tool on a Commando other than say tight fork cap nuts or crank nut rusted on? Power grinders and drills do way more for me. Compressed air is great to clean engine nooks before digging in.

Btw what tool is used on the big nut in your red box clutch locker?

At home I use the big impact to remove the alternator nut and the nuts on both ends of the mainshaft plus the transmission sprocket nut. That's about it.

I often use my 3/8th drive impact to disassemble engines on the bench mount or to take out the bolts for the timing cover and Mk3 primary chaincase and footpeg.

The red clutch locker fits an old 3/4 inch straight box end wrench that is just the right length to stop against the alternator and fits in my tool roll.

Just a late night quicky

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