Hi & Oil Change Question

That big nut in the sump should have a strainer attached to it...so if you decide to go filterless at least the big chunks will be getting stuck in the strainer.

Oil in sight tube was band spanking new, as was the 1st quart filling up
after fitting the sight-drain tube. This gave me some idea of
amounts of oil the tube calibrated to.
Other wise its got as dark as fast as expected
so easier to see both the level and the state of break down or
Combustion pollution.
I've have had rear low oil filter come loose 1/2 mile
before I entered chicanes to attack and noticed skilding
too easy hmm, saw oil trail in mirror and pulled over
and used road trash to handle filer back on. left about
a quart inside, but easy ride back 30 miles never got
oil iemp up over low normal so don't think any damage.

I've followed the oil treads for last decade and the main issue
is not the base lube but the additive package, old push rod
engines, sports carts to air craft, need more zinc and other metal
contact 'lubes' that poison catalytic converters.

Actually the main issue is to get temp up enough to cook
off moisture as the real wear from oil is the corrosion
reactions, so frequent oil changes is still best insurance.

Synthetic resists breakdown better than petroleum and
single grade works better than multi-grade, IF used in
the more narrow climate range of a single grade.

Its hard to argue against a filter, not so much for the
wear factor but the sludge build up factor, especially
crank trap. Better to buy filters than open otherwise
good crank shaft to inspect or clean out.
An InFamous Motto I learned from the seasoned Brit Iron'rs
dealing with cycles before filters were thought of...
"Clean The Sludge Trap"

Factory location just makes good sense but I've seen filters
mounted in battery area, in place of stock air ham can,
front of frame, back of frame. Best place is where
its makes least mess and that's where factor did it.
It filter springs a leak there is only one place that
might not reach tire, hanging out past back tire.

Trick is to get the two cradle holes marked right the
first time. I'd discourage using the SS braid for oil filter,
one because everyone has it and two it grids surfaces
so extra trouble to route and shield.

My Ms Peel special will mount a narrower canister under
horizontal mooring post of the yellow squid hunting submarine.
Alas nothing off the shelf will quite do for you know who,
so looks like solder and hardware fittings to get tight
enough routing. Cold weld is indeed my friend in need.

Why can't a car type oil sucker kit take the messy hassle out
of Commandos?

hobot

Thanks heaps all and hotbot ur posts are very informative and well thought thanks for the input, i do think it would be a good idea to run a filter like you said, im thinking of trying to put it near the battery maybe like you said out of the way, can i ask what kits do u guys use and recommend where to get them, who makes the best????

Thanks

Hi Hotbot,

Great post, you have summed up years of posts regarding the use of oil in a well thought out & informative post, thanks

You mentioned about the 'sucker' or vacuum type oil changer, is anybody using them with a Norton? Can anybody think of a downside to using one?

I'm going to change my oil soon & I'm trying to see if I can avoid some of the 'mess' :mrgreen:

Kevin

click said:

You mentioned about the 'sucker' or vacuum type oil changer, is anybody using them with a Norton? Can anybody think of a downside to using one?

Click to expand...

If I know I won't be using my Commando for a while after a ride, then to save all the aggro of draining the oil from the sump at a later date (and save wear and tear of the sump threads) then if I remember, I will often transfer around two thirds of the oil from the upper part of the oil tank into a container with a simple oil suction gun like this one:


However I did find it was necessary to add a restrictor to the plastic tube, as it's surprising how quickly even thick 50 monograde oil will slop from the tube and make a mess as the tube is transferred from the tank to the container-which has to be done about four or five times.

But of course with this method, you do have to remember TO PUT THE OIL BACK IN THE TANK before the next start-up!

Re mounting for oil filter , a mate of mine has an early model fastback where the old maggie position was blanked off with a pressed steel plate ,{this must have been a model where they moved the points to the cam but thought they might go back :?: } he removed the plate made a alloy block about 20 mm thick and used this as the backing for the filter and the seal off plate for the timing chest . Lot of work but very neat and sort of fills the space and balances up the back of the motor . I believe he had a hard time sorting the oil lines

bracebridgestbham said:

Re mounting for oil filter , a mate of mine has an early model fastback where the old maggie position was blanked off with a pressed steel plate ,{this must have been a model where they moved the points to the cam but thought they might go back :?: } he removed the plate made a alloy block about 20 mm thick and used this as the backing for the filter and the seal off plate for the timing chest . Lot of work but very neat and sort of fills the space and balances up the back of the motor . I believe he had a hard time sorting the oil lines

Click to expand...

I think there are pictures of a similar setup on this forum.

anyone-running-with-oil-filter-t5511.html?hilit=oil%20filter&start=15#p51869

bracebridgestbham said:

a mate of mine has an early model fastback where the old maggie position was blanked off with a pressed steel plate ,{this must have been a model where they moved the points to the cam but thought they might go back

Click to expand...

Well... the majority of '71-'72 cases had a blanking plate in that position, which covered the hole intended for the self-destructing starter motor mechanism that, thankfully, the factory decided not to fit.

L.A.B. said:

bracebridgestbham said:

a mate of mine has an early model fastback where the old maggie position was blanked off with a pressed steel plate ,{this must have been a model where they moved the points to the cam but thought they might go back

Click to expand...

Well... the majority of '71-'72 cases had a blanking plate in that position, which covered the hole intended for the self-destructing starter motor mechanism that, thankfully, the factory decided not to fit.

Click to expand...

Mine doesn't.

swooshdave said:

L.A.B. said:

bracebridgestbham said:

a mate of mine has an early model fastback where the old maggie position was blanked off with a pressed steel plate ,{this must have been a model where they moved the points to the cam but thought they might go back

Click to expand...

Well... the majority of '71-'72 cases had a blanking plate in that position, which covered the hole intended for the self-destructing starter motor mechanism that, thankfully, the factory decided not to fit.

Click to expand...

Mine doesn't.

Click to expand...

"the majority of.." :roll: http://atlanticgreen.com/engcases.htm