Hi & Oil Change Question

Hi all, i have been reading the forums for a while now and thought id finally post on the main board.
Im about to do my first oil change as i bought an interstate a month ago and ive notice the oil doesnt look as clean as it probably should and i thought id check to see if there was any sludge build up in the oil tank to. I also have a 1970 roadster thats not yet running ive tried to search on here for 'oil change' but cant find anything.

Can any one reccomend the best procedure for completely draining the oil and then checking to see if the oil tank is clean, then cleaning it out and refilling her?
I was thinking just remove the big sump nut at the bottom of the engine underneath let it drain, remove the oil tank and all lines and empty this too and inspect?
Also are there any filters that need to be replaced at this time to, ive heard theres one near the sump nut?
PS: im gonna use 20-60w redline from bursons if i can manage to find it!


Thanks heaps guys, much appreciated.

Dear IsO,
First principle in any Commando procedure is to get over any hope and concept
of easy direct ways to do it.

If you have any doubt there's layer of metal dust and half ceramic
oxidized hydrocarbon matrix, give it up. Is it enough to matter???
There is some wisdom to leaving sleeping dogs alone.

I suppose > if I was lazy-weak to face the strain-pain plus new things
revealed that better be done now or strain-pain again d/t inevitable
miserable ride spoiler >

I'd rig up a vacuum tube via fluid isolator jar-bottle, pour
brake fluid or acetone or Diesel or Gasoline - oven cleaner,
what ever, attach it to long screw driver or bendable probe,
and just keep scraping and poking till don't get much more
satisfaction, then flush with cheap oil, top off, go ride with one
less pensive thought on your mind.

Think thrice about what you drop in tank to retrieve past
filler lip. Properly small size nuts for the corners and nooks
are buggers to get all out, though a magnet on a string
might ease the toil. Bolt and small chains work and
shake-snag out easy. Watch out for washers : (

Other wise real Nortoneers know ain't no short cuts to know
its right until strain-pain off, strain pain doing the deal,
strain-pain assembling.

There is a known fracture-leak hazard in bottom of tank
factory mounting. That alone makes going in deep worth
the peace of mind for two birds stoned plus any extra
refinishing time off riding.

I got tired of the strain-pain just to change oil, dang bike
leans wrong way and cover is a hassle then long wait to attend
to finish. I adapted a compact plastic barbed elbow to
replace the side plug and ran a hose up the back of frame
tube and around the oil fill neck. Acted as sight tube
and when let down I'd stick it in a bucket-jug and
come back later, cap the tube stick it back around neck
and top off oil and take off. Did have to notch cover
at rear for hose.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1087102 ... 1179yhnfNh

hobot

Welcome "IsO" (I like that, hobot).

To give a simple answer to your question, yes, there may well be an oil filter fitted.

Look under the gearbox area to see if one is bolted on to the cradle plate, right side, just spin it off and replace, hopefully the thread has been changed
so you can put a modern filter back on.

Otherwise, yes, just drain the oil from the tank and also from underneath the motor at either the front small plug or the rearward large screen sumped plug.

The joys of easy answers to easy questions!

Modak in Elizabeth Street have the correct oil filers, just picked up a Champion H101 this morning and engine, gear and primary oil from Burson. Modaks got most of the stuff you may need for a Commando.

mick

I like draining the oil first from the junction block, then the sump, and then take out the filter at the bottom of the oil tank. Makes less of a mess for me, but not much. Lots of sopping.

Dave
69S

I've got a standard oil filter mount I'm not going to use.
Its missing the two mounting bolts and the tab lock washers.
$20 and postage.
Install requres template marking to drill two holes in RH cradle
plus the extra hose and clamps.
Got extra hose metal shield too.

Use tin foil or stiff paper under the oil tank drain to help
reduce the draining mess. Don't over fill or more mess to
clean up when run to seek its proper level usually a bit
short of dip stick reach.

hobot

Thanks heaps guys for all the tips long and short I just been to Bursons and i priced the Redline 20-60W its $148. :shock:

Im thinking of going penrite 20-60W but am not sure now???? what do other aussie guys recommend to get from over here????

Ill suss out the filter situation soon and post back to whats there.

hehehe and so it begins,
again.

hobot - hehee

On this at least most of us would agree, just about any name brand 20-50, or 15-40, or straight 40. would be just fine.

I just finished checking it over and there is definately no oil filter installed. Do u guys recommend running one, does everyone? I only ask as i like the bike to be as original as possible. Are there different types of oil filter kits or are they all the same, and do i have to drill holes to fit it, cant i just zip tie it to the frame as i dont wanna drill any holes in her shes so original?

Thanks again

With oil filters can one be mounted in line on return oil line like the RGM inline magnetic oi filter? this would save the holes in the frame and room/space or is this just primariy for metal fragments only???

Thanks again!

What year is your Interstate? Does it have a large sump plug in the bottom of the case or just a small one? The decision as to whether or not to add a filter can be and will be debated by many. My '72 did not come stock with a filter and I have yet to add one. Unless you are paying 140 bucks for your oil, changing it often is an option.

In regards to the tank, I took mine off and stuck the nozzle on the parts washer in there and went away while it washed the sludge out. You could dump some diesel in there, cap it up and shake it around and repeat until it came out looking clean.

Hobot, the sight tube is a great idea. I had thought about setting up a banjo on the drain plug so that I could put a hose on there for draining but being able to see the oil is a bonus. From the looks of how clean your oil is, you should be the one giving advice on filters.

I ran for 35 years without an oil filter, including long cross country trips.

Do we "need" and oil filter?

NO.

Is it a good idea to install one? Sure it is.

Yes you do have to drill two holes in your cradle frame to mount it properly, no big deal, does not weaken the frame.

Re redline oil , I faced a similar question about the oil and did a bit of research and came up with the redline answer and decided to go that way , walked into Bursons in Geelong saw the price and fell over . My answer was to use a penrite syn oil ,at about half the price got this from K mart auto section .The article I read was off the net, called All About Motor Oil ,by Mark Lawrence it left me with no doubt that the synthetic oils are superior to the mineral base stuff .I suppose the question is ,do you buy cheap oil and change often ,use top oil and run longer ,leave the filter off and run better oil or fit the filter and run cheap oil or go the whole hog with everything .Also more pipes equals more leaks and weeps , good luck ! Iride a black 1970 roadster might run into you at the All Britt or down the Great Ocean Road some time

Steve

Install the filter set up properly mounted to the cradle frame, drill the holes and do it right.

Buy decent grade automobile oil 20-50 and change it around every 1500 miles.

Don't over think this.

The only advantage synthetic has is that it does not break down as fast as non synth under high heat conditions.

Many people will not use a synthetic oil in their older vintage bikes because they believe that changing it often is more important, especially given the extra cost of synthetic.
Some also believe synthetic will leak more easily, and some say regular dyne oil holds contaminants in suspension better,
And some more say syth too slippery for the larger tolerances of our older engines.

They could all be right or wrong. I run any automotive 20-50 and change at 1500 miles, with an oil filter fitted.

interstateOz said:

I just finished checking it over and there is definately no oil filter installed. Do u guys recommend running one, does everyone? I only ask as i like the bike to be as original as possible. Are there different types of oil filter kits or are they all the same, and do i have to drill holes to fit it, cant i just zip tie it to the frame as i dont wanna drill any holes in her shes so original?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

If there's no oil filter use an old fashioned low detergent oil and don't touch that oil tank sludge, its where all the small particles are getting stuck. If you start disturbing it and put in a more modern high detergent oil, all those nasty metal particles can start circulating around your engine.
If you decide to fit a filter fill modern oils are fine.

Thanks heaps for all your help, its helped heaps! Your right though there is probably no correct answer to my question as it comes down to personal choice within reason i guess, high cost oil vs low cost, frequency changed, and oil filters...

The bike im doing the oil change on is a 1971 totally original although i did think interstates only came out in 1972 i found a website stating there were some released late 1971 which is what im thinking this is, as it has the drum front end too, and 7000 original miles and excellent condition, i love it!

Steve: yeh hopefully see u around, always good to catch up with other Norton enthusiasts in the area!

It has the big sump nut i think its about a 37-38mm????

1 1/2" works a treat.

Dave
69S