Oil in sight tube was band spanking new, as was the 1st quart filling up
after fitting the sight-drain tube. This gave me some idea of
amounts of oil the tube calibrated to.
Other wise its got as dark as fast as expected
so easier to see both the level and the state of break down or
Combustion pollution.
I've have had rear low oil filter come loose 1/2 mile
before I entered chicanes to attack and noticed skilding
too easy hmm, saw oil trail in mirror and pulled over
and used road trash to handle filer back on. left about
a quart inside, but easy ride back 30 miles never got
oil iemp up over low normal so don't think any damage.
I've followed the oil treads for last decade and the main issue
is not the base lube but the additive package, old push rod
engines, sports carts to air craft, need more zinc and other metal
contact 'lubes' that poison catalytic converters.
Actually the main issue is to get temp up enough to cook
off moisture as the real wear from oil is the corrosion
reactions, so frequent oil changes is still best insurance.
Synthetic resists breakdown better than petroleum and
single grade works better than multi-grade, IF used in
the more narrow climate range of a single grade.
Its hard to argue against a filter, not so much for the
wear factor but the sludge build up factor, especially
crank trap. Better to buy filters than open otherwise
good crank shaft to inspect or clean out.
An InFamous Motto I learned from the seasoned Brit Iron'rs
dealing with cycles before filters were thought of...
"Clean The Sludge Trap"
Factory location just makes good sense but I've seen filters
mounted in battery area, in place of stock air ham can,
front of frame, back of frame. Best place is where
its makes least mess and that's where factor did it.
It filter springs a leak there is only one place that
might not reach tire, hanging out past back tire.
Trick is to get the two cradle holes marked right the
first time. I'd discourage using the SS braid for oil filter,
one because everyone has it and two it grids surfaces
so extra trouble to route and shield.
My Ms Peel special will mount a narrower canister under
horizontal mooring post of the yellow squid hunting submarine.
Alas nothing off the shelf will quite do for you know who,
so looks like solder and hardware fittings to get tight
enough routing. Cold weld is indeed my friend in need.
Why can't a car type oil sucker kit take the messy hassle out
of Commandos?
hobot