Help! I've been FRAMED!

snortonNorton · Jan 14, 2015

Check but I do not think that the new and old side stands will fit on the same lug location.

Dennis[/quote]
I wasn't sure about that. They look like they are mounted farther ahead and on more of an angle.

snortonNorton · Jan 14, 2015

]

Oh that'll be nice... another black and gold Commando... just like ALL the others...!

I thought part of the appeal of these old bikes was to express a little individuality...?[/quote]

I know, it's a drag. If I build another one it will be quite radical. The green is growing on me though, not to many of them out there. I believe my original colour was yellow and I still might go that way to, if I can get that confirmed by the serial number.

cjandme · Jan 14, 2015

That frame repair does indeed look nice! Here's something else to consider since it is torn down to the bare bones. Check the thread here on this forum about welding on a small tab or bracket for the kibble white valve spring under the engine to help keep the isolastic mounts from sagging. Comnoz posted it and I believe matchless did it on his 920 build. Positive results and reviews all round. I think that the museums have enough totally stock original bikes, I'd build in as much improvements as possible, money permitting

gjr · Jan 14, 2015

snortonNorton said:
...my original colour was yellow and I still might go that way too, if I can get that confirmed by the serial number.

You have a lot of faith in the record keeping at Norton. Beyond that I'm not sure black was even an option for 1970. The big metal flake green is pretty wild, but you have a start. Matching those metal flakes would be tough.

Greg

Torontonian · Jan 14, 2015

Not a 70 color. Roman Fireflake Purple should suck moneys out of bank account and look great and correct.

snortonNorton · Jan 14, 2015

cjandme said:
That frame repair does indeed look nice! Here's something else to consider since it is torn down to the bare bones. Check the thread here on this forum about welding on a small tab or bracket for the kibble white valve spring under the engine to help keep the isolastic mounts from sagging. Comnoz posted it and I believe matchless did it on his 920 build. Positive results and reviews all round. I think that the museums have enough totally stock original bikes, I'd build in as much improvements as possible, money permitting

I will research that , thank you, I had never heard of that repair.

Dennis C · Jan 15, 2015

snortonNorton said:
Check but I do not think that the new and old side stands will fit on the same lug location.

Dennis

I wasn't sure about that. They look like they are mounted farther ahead and on more of an angle.[/quote]

Old britts sells a mounting lug at a very reasonable price that will fit the newer side stand. It comes with a mounting jig, but does use the front cross piece as a locator and extra welding point. A quick call to Fred will answer any questions.

You are starting with some quality work!!

Dennis

cjandme · Jan 15, 2015

Just looked again and found a picture under the thread titled "920 photos" of the lower engine mount spring mod.....back on pg 24 at the moment, about half way down the pg.....& for a list of his build components ck pg 34 titled "920 on the road again".....also .might be able to send a pm to matchless or comnoz for exact details on how big the tab needs to be and spacing etc...

snortonNorton · Jan 15, 2015

cjandme said:
Just looked again and found a picture under the thread titled "920 photos" of the lower engine mount spring mod.....back on pg 24 at the moment, about half way down the pg.....& for a list of his build components ck pg 34 titled "920 on the road again".....also .might be able to send a pm to matchless or comnoz for exact details on how big the tab needs to be and spacing etc...

I found that thread earlier today and it looks interesting. I use to work on Bomags or vibratory rolling tampers for construction road work. I replaced a lot of rubber mounts. The plate tampers and bolmags had superior rubber mounts. Some are square some are round. I might try to incorporate one for the head steady. They would be far better than the single round stock one.

They come in all sizes and shapes and are designed to withstand a tremendous amount of pounding all day long for years.

DogT · Jan 15, 2015

If you weren't going for originality, I'd certainly do the KBW spring under the engine like comnoz did. I installed the later spring off the head on my 69 and it took away the idle vibrations and brought the front iso up to near center and also pushed the rear iso back to near center, but it needs more. I'm convinced that the isos being centered while at rest is the way to go not only for iso life but for smooth running. It only took 6 months of my new isos in the tubes to take a set to the bottom. I removed them to install the Hemmings adjuster and found that out.

I improved what I could on my bike without affecting the look and I think it's acceptable, but there could be many improvements, where do you want to end? Better brakes (disk?), better looks (FB), etc. It's your decision and your bike, do what you feel necessary.

Dave
69S

Hobot · Jan 15, 2015

just be aware that Norton engineers went to some effort to reduce total rubber support area for isolation onset bellow or near 2000 rpm so adding any more mass/vibration supporting rubber may buzz more than smooth. Buzz is pretty common annoyance diddling isolastic type racer head steady. Factory head steady Lords mounts will buzz if they are in much shear-sag loads vs in non mass supporting neutral state by bending head steady mount to take off strain so they are mostly neutral only dealing with side compressive loads not much engine supporting or vibration motion resisting. Engine motion at head steady area is more horizontal front to back arc of ~1/16" than up/dn like at front mount. Still the steel spring can not isolate much sonic level vibes that can transmit through the steel though may not be noticed so no negatives but frame tab welded right. Btw Delicious repair to see so nicely done. Does one make a note for next owner on this level repair or just let em discover it on next refinish?

snortonNorton · Jan 16, 2015

The last bike I did to this extent was a 1978 KZ1000A2A. And I did a thread on the restoration process at the KZR web site. Here is a link to the build.
http://kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/52 ... -the-weeds
When I sold the bike I told the new owner about the restoration and the website with the build.
He was very happy with Bike. Here is a pic of the finished kawi. Hope all the Norton owners don't shun me from the site with this pic.

I have been taking a lot of pictures of this Norton build as well and may do a power point video when I am done. Every nut bolt, nipple, gasket, seal, gear, part on this bike was apart. cases split and painted as well. 1 -1/2 year build.

snortonNorton · Jan 16, 2015

DogT said:
If you weren't going for originality, I'd certainly do the KBW spring under the engine like comnoz did. I installed the later spring off the head on my 69 and it took away the idle vibrations and brought the front iso up to near center and also pushed the rear iso back to near center, but it needs more. I'm convinced that the isos being centered while at rest is the way to go not only for iso life but for smooth running. It only took 6 months of my new isos in the tubes to take a set to the bottom. I removed them to install the Hemmings adjuster and found that out.

I improved what I could on my bike without affecting the look and I think it's acceptable, but there could be many improvements, where do you want to end? Better brakes (disk?), better looks (FB), etc. It's your decision and your bike, do what you feel necessary.

Dave
69S

I am going to take all this into consideration on reassembly. It just looks a little hoaky. Has any one tried an air bag, or hydraulics?

DogT · Jan 16, 2015

snortonNorton said:
I am going to take all this into consideration on reassembly. It just looks a little hoaky. ....

Well, if you look at comnoz' bike it's so heavily modified what would the spring under the front of the engine matter? I guess it depends on the quantity of modification you can stand. I tried for near original and am not dissapointed. I wish I had the time and loot to do a FB with peashooters and disk brakes all around. I think Piero has done that. Actually I probably do have the time an loot, I'm just so old and feeble minded now. Too bad I couldn't do it much earlier.

snortonNorton · Mar 27, 2015

Decided to take everyone's advice and put in the forward cross member in the frame.

Hobot · Mar 27, 2015

Gosh that's almost sexy.

snortonNorton · Mar 27, 2015

My buddy Pete has been doing this since he was born. He makes the stock welds look sick.

Danno · Mar 28, 2015

So when did they switch the centerstand mount from a welded crosstube to mounting on the engine plates?

L.A.B. · Mar 28, 2015

Danno said:
So when did they switch the centerstand mount from a welded crosstube to mounting on the engine plates?

Early 1971, supposedly from either serial 141783 or 142534 depending on the source of the information.

ntst8 · Mar 28, 2015

snortonNorton said:
.... Hope all the Norton owners don't shun me from the site with this pic.....

Looks like your survived. Nice job, on the Kawasaki, i have always had a soft spot for the 900/1000 Kawa's.

Help! I've been FRAMED!

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Torontonian

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