Hello
- Thread starter WesWood
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It's just a simple, sort of, matter of a seat change and handle bars. The "sort of" part is in changing all the cabling. But once done, you can always change it back. But I really think you should make it ride able. What's the point of owning one if you can't experience the Norton of it all.WesWood said:
N0rt0nelectr@
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Welcome to the group. There is more information here in the collective wisdom of Norton that you could ever imagine.
I am working on a 70 750 Roadster that was last on the road in 72. Which I picked it up last summer so I know where you are coming from.
There is nothing like a bike puzzle on a brand you have never worked on.
Ask away, the answers are here for the asking.
John in Texas
I am working on a 70 750 Roadster that was last on the road in 72. Which I picked it up last summer so I know where you are coming from.
There is nothing like a bike puzzle on a brand you have never worked on.
Ask away, the answers are here for the asking.
John in Texas
DogT
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Welcome. If you don't like the HR, just get the Roadster parts and make it like you want it. No one's going to fault you for doing that. I don't know if L.A.B. said, but you'll need at least a 1/4 WW socket with the others he mentioned. I got a 3/8 drive and still had to grind it down a bit for some of the nuts in the GB. Sounds like a good project.
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I don't have a Hi Rider but have used Hi Rider tank with a Roadster seat and bars. Side covers are the same.
Its a nice look when I don't mind the limited range, then I put on Roadster tank. I have an Interstate tank
but haven't bought the Interstate seat yet. Mix and match to taste. I agree with some that the Hi Rider
bars and seat were not very attractive.
Its a nice look when I don't mind the limited range, then I put on Roadster tank. I have an Interstate tank
but haven't bought the Interstate seat yet. Mix and match to taste. I agree with some that the Hi Rider
bars and seat were not very attractive.
What's not obvious with wrench sizes is that the "Whitworth" wrench size referred originally to bolt diameter and there was a formula for calculating the nut across flats dimension. When high-strength steel bolts came along, the wrench sizes no longer matched the old formula, but the nomenclature wasn't changed. Typical Brit confusion! - no consideration for the export market.
I have done everything that can be done on my 72. The only Whitworth I have ever really needed is the 1/4w for the back head fastener. All else is handled by either either SAE or metric. That being said, 6 point sockets and wrenches, rather than 12 point, are essential.
Hey there, Weswood. It's time to get aquanted with photobucket and start posting photos or else we won't believe you are real.
Hey there, Weswood. It's time to get aquanted with photobucket and start posting photos or else we won't believe you are real.
N0rt0nelectr@
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solarmoose said:
When I bought my first Norton a 74 in 1976 it was a Hi Rider. It was the last RH shift bike in the shop. I can honestly say that the seat was a vinyl covered rock. Any long trip I took I had to carry extra gas just in case. Found an Interstate tank at a bike wrecking yard for $100 and a King / Queen seat for another $100. The seat was ugly but very comfortable.
John Ebert
Granbury, TX
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Hi Wesley.
Where practicable, if you replace shafts, bolts and nuts with Grade 8, 12 point flange types then you will only need much smaller spanners and sockets - makes for a greatly condensed toolkit!
Ta.
PS: don't use Stilsons!
Where practicable, if you replace shafts, bolts and nuts with Grade 8, 12 point flange types then you will only need much smaller spanners and sockets - makes for a greatly condensed toolkit!
Ta.
PS: don't use Stilsons!
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needing said:Hi Wesley.
PS: don't use Stilsons!
Haha, a little translation is needed here....he means pipe wrench for us Americans...I only know what a Stilson is as I'm married to a Yorkshire lass.....
Hi Wesley -
Welcome! I'm in a similar situation having bought a '75 850 that the previous owner put high rise touring bars on. New to Nortons as well with a background working on Japanese bikes.
I'll be returning mine to the stock bars since it is a MkIII roadster so I have to find shorter cables etc.
These folks have already helped me a bunch…
Ask first! These are very different animals. For example, don't let your friend try knocking the rear axle out on the sprocket side and then try even harder with a bigger hammer without intervening… It's a two piece affair with a blind junction.
Enjoy,
Andy --
Welcome! I'm in a similar situation having bought a '75 850 that the previous owner put high rise touring bars on. New to Nortons as well with a background working on Japanese bikes.
I'll be returning mine to the stock bars since it is a MkIII roadster so I have to find shorter cables etc.
These folks have already helped me a bunch…
Ask first! These are very different animals. For example, don't let your friend try knocking the rear axle out on the sprocket side and then try even harder with a bigger hammer without intervening… It's a two piece affair with a blind junction.
Enjoy,
Andy --
htown16
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Like others have mentioned, not a problem in converting it to a roadster or even an interstate. The only difference in the models are tanks, seats, bars, associated cables and in some cases exhaust. The factory kept no records of what model the bike was configured as when it left the assembly line, so there is no way of proving whether the bike with your vin number left the factory as a Hi-rider or any one of the other models. As long as the model and color are from that model year, it shouldn't affect the value to convert it to one of the other models. I do believe I would keep the old parts though. OEM Norton parts seem to be getting more pricey every year. Also, if you are doing a complete restoration, new cables are a good idea anyway.
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