Heart Transplant

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Again thanks to @Mike T for lending me the trick tools!

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Wooden support for holding crankshaft via the wrist pins (or what ever you can stick through and are long enough).

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I got this far (well, I got the nuts off the chain tensioner) but realized I don't have a 1/2W socket. I have a wrench but no way I can use that. Need to borrow that from @Mike T and then I can keep going.

With the Commando you really don't need a bunch of Whitworth tools. Apparently I need to expand my tool library...
 

fiatfan

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I don´t understand how you got it hooked up to the stand....? Doesn´t look right.
 
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looks like 2 engine mounts bolted up at the front & 2 ziptied at the back
 
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Maybe a little use of a rat tail file to elongate the hole or round off the corners may get the holes to line up. Or drill the hole larger to pass the bolt or stud to pass through.
doesn't look like a big deal.
T
 
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The hell if you guys aren't useful every once in a while... :D

Not like I didn't post a picture on page 1 with the engine in the stand. Sheesh.

:cool:
 
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LOL how bout that...Fixed!:rolleyes:

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Now it is. Didn't get the socket today and too stormy out to go get it. It will need to wait.

I did remove all the remaining crankcase screws and bolts. They all came off easily. As soon as I get the timing gears and stuff off the crackcases should just fall apart, right? Or does this Combat-era non-Combat have a ball bearing on one side?
 
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So this little bugger was on a little tight. Doesn't help that it was a cold in the garage.

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Only managed to break TWO of @Mike T's tools... :eek:

This wrist pin holding board was the first to fail. It's just fiberboard so I'll make a new one out of stronger wood.

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The second tool to fail was the pinion puller. Fortunately it still did the job with only two arms. Does anyone have a spare one laying around they want to sell? :oops:

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The good news is that it should be ready to split, what else could possibly go wrong??? o_O
 

motorson

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upload_2018-12-22_0-21-1.jpegHere is how I keep the crank from turning. I also have the cut out timing cover to support the idler sprocket shaft while working on the cam nut.
 
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Well, shoot. Now what do I do? The crank assembly feels perfect. I'll recheck but I don't think there is any play at all.

The thought was to just clean the cases and reassemble. They are obviously filthy.

I need to look closer but these may not be superblends, which on a non-Combat engine might be ok.

Clean, reassemble, then start sorting out what to do with the top end. The barrels are not great and the head is suspect (very). I don't know if the barrels on the Combat survived the flailing rods but the head should be ok. It might end up being a mishmash of parts.
 
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View attachment 7725Here is how I keep the crank from turning. I also have the cut out timing cover to support the idler sprocket shaft while working on the cam nut.

Like most things there is a right tool for the job at the right time. The board to support the wrist pins works great when... the pistons are off. But in many other cases another method will need to be used to hold the crankshaft.
 

Fast Eddie

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Swoosh, NEVER ask what could go wrong !!

You gotta split the crank mate. If the oil had that much crud in it then you must check and clean the inside of the crank.

Big end shells are dirt cheap, false economy not to give the journals a little polish with super fine emery and fit new shells as a matter of course IMHO.

I have re used main bearings on Triumphs before. But on a Commando, if they’re not superblends, I would definitely fit new superblends.

Having come this far, don’t cheap out, it would be a huge pain in the ass if you had to do it all again too soon. Do it right and it’ll probably outlast you.
 
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The idea behinds the engine is to just get it running until I can rebuild the original engine. So as long as the parts are serviceable they will be reused.

Because I will need to do it all again soon.
 
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