- Apr 15, 2009
I’m not sure what is worse, German or Italian engineering.
Now of topic...
its not that the engineering is bad, but the engineers are outnumber by the bean counters, who have no understanding of compromise impact on product quality. when i was young i had the desire to own a bmw 320i but my good friend in the bodyshop business said it would cost as much as a porsche to keep. i now have a bmw motorcycle, and their quality control as experience through this lowly model reminds me never to buy one of their cars...
I have found engine stands to be useful only at the very beginning of an engine teardown, and at the very end. I use soft alloy jaws in my bench vise and it works perfectly well on thee bottom two bolt-thru lugs.What I really need is an engine stand, does anyone have an extra one laying around?
The Mk3 manual recommends a length of steel bar inserted into the deepest balance hole in the flywheel.
No It's still in there, I just rebuilt my motor and the bar in the balance hole worked well."To achieve this it is necessary to stop the crankshaft turning in the cases either by passing a round bar through the small ends and supporting on clean wooden blocks across the crankcase mouth or by placing a suitable bar into the deepest balance hole and allowing the bar to abut against the crankcase mouth..."
Did they omit the round bar through the small ends option in the MkIII manual?
I used the drill rod through the small ends and two pieces of hardwood across the machined surface as a bridge where the barrels would mate to protect the surface from getting marred. I followed Mick Hemmings video. Remember the timing pinion nut is L/H Thread on the crank. Cam nut is regular righty tighty lefty loosey. You should also use a intermediate gear shaft support while undoing these two nuts or you could damage the fit to this shaft in the timing side crank half. Edit: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/17035