has anybody installed that hydralic clutch kit

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goo

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Oct 6, 2011
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if so, with what results?

I have read that its over kill and the conventional clutch can be adjusted to be almost a 2 finger operation. that would be quite an improvement over my current clutch.

has anybody installed that hydralic clutch kit


thx
ed
 
I don't have any experience with the hydraulic clutch, but I do know installing a Venhill teflon lined cable turned my clutch into an easy two finger pull. Don't know what the stack height is. Didn't need to go that far.
 
The cable clutch can be make pretty good. Most people will be happy with them -until they ride a bike with the hydraulic clutch. Jim :wink:
 
Jim,

I had my suspicions that the hydro clutch was the way to go, but I broke a clutch cable and needed to get going right away. I'm not even sure the hydro clutch was available back then. It was ten years or so ago. I was, in no way, inferring a cable was superior to your hydraulic clutch. My apologies if you took it that way.
 
Jim,
Actually you must have been posting at the same time I was because I hadn't even seen your post when I wrote my reply.

And I have no problem with people who would prefer to stay with a cable clutch. They are simple and easy to understand and look right on a vintage bike.

Personally I am more into how the bike performs and it would be hard to beat the hydraulic setup with a cable. Of coarse even with the hydraulic clutch you need to have the plate stack height correct to make the clutch work at it's best. Jim
 
Ed,
Thanks for the timely thread. Since I have mine stripprd for a complete rewire job, I might as well get the clutch right.
Nice color scheme. I love the Black and Gold
Chuck
 
Yes

I have the JIm Comstock/CNW hydraulic clutch on my 73 850 for the past year and a half or so.

I also have Jim's Head Steady, I like his ideas and engineering!

Do I like the hydraulic clutch? Yes

Is it "necessary"? No

Would I do it again? Yes

There are no negatives that I can think of, it performs flawlessly every time.

Here is a copy and paste from CNW's Parts Catalog regarding the hydraulic clutch

Extremely smooth clutch action
Lighter pull than the cable units we have used over the years
More positive clutch engagement, more like a modern machine
No more cable wear and breakage
No more cable routing issues
The slave cylinder is mounted inside the outer transmission cover for an ultra clean look.
The slave cylinder is made from cast steel, as opposed to aluminum, for superior wear characteristics between the clutch piston seal and piston bore
Easy to install
Fits any Commando transmission
http://coloradonortonworks.com/part-categories/drive/
 
"I agree, original is fine. Hydraulic is an answer to a question I didn't ask, but others must have."

+1!

The stock clutch, when clutch stack height is correct and a good cable, is an EASY two finger pull. I would not argue with the claim that a hydraulic actuator is more durable but I have never had a clutch cable break. Maybe if I had, I might feel differently! :)
 
Hi,

Upgrades and modifications for our Commandos are often things that aren't necessarily 'needed'. The original can be made to work, as they did back when these bikes were introduced. What the modifications will do is better the machine in many way. This can also better the riding experience itself. Does anyone need my Brembo brake kit ? Maybe not but it allows you to not worry about how the bike will stop and you can focus on more important things. Do you need modern tires ? again....No, but you have to appreciate how much better they perform than old style tires.

So whether or not we need these parts to make the bikes work is not the question....its rather what is important to you when you want to take these great machines out for a ride.

I personally think that the hydraulic clutch kit is one of the best upgrades/modifications that Jim Comstock has developed to date.

I have sold a lot of the hydraulic clutch systems and have got extremely good feedback. Often that it works better then some modern bikes. Engagement feels more positive and of course, you wont have to worry about how long your cable operated clutch will work because as all cables, it will most definitely wear out over time.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
I remember one day a long time ago when I was waiting to pull out on an A road and I had my clutch pulled it (was on a Royal Enfield). The cable snapped and the bike jumped out into the traffic and I almost got hit. From that point on I always wanted a hydraulic clutch. I cannot wait to fit Jim's hydraulic clutch to my MK3 that I am building.
 
One other advantage of the hydraulic clutch is it increases the travel of the pushrod by a small amount. This makes the clutch dissengage more completely so it is then easy to find neutral at a stop. And with extra travel the adjuster does not need to be adjusted so tight that there is always pressure on the pushrod.

Beyond getting the clutch stack height right -some of the mods to decrease the lever pressure involve reductions in the travel of the pushrod. When you reduce the travel then the clutch adjustment needs to be kept just right to get clean dissengagement without ending up with no freeplay when the handle is released. Lack of freeplay will increase the likelyhood that the clutch will slip and wear on the end of the pushrod.

With the hydraulic clutch you set it once and forget it. The floating piston always stays in light contact with the clutch pushrod so full travel is maintained.

The linear travel also means that the tendency for the Norton clutch to be somewhat of an off-on switch is reduced. It makes the clutch feel more like a modern [should I say it] honkawsuzimaha. Jim
 
Darn it.
One of the most adrenalized nerve wracking life long memories I have on Nortons is standing start drag launches w/o wheelie or too much spin and keeping on throttle power enough while slipping clutch to climb w/o spin in off road stuff. This upgrade stuff just never ever ends does it... a good thing in the long run. We may be in the real golden era of Commandos as who'd care so much after us?
 
"the tendency for the Norton clutch to be somewhat of an off-on switch is reduced"

Friction zone anybody? The only reason I wouldn't own Jim's clutch is if it never existed in the first place.
 
I am completely happy on my factory Commandos with the cable as one of the least troublesome transparent progressive non grabby easy to work features, except to stay ahead of cable before it you know what's. Still for my NonNorton stunt bike will have to try hydrualis and then could fit the matching billet bling master cylinder as brake side, so very glad its now an off the shelf item.
 
swooshdave said:
Does the hydraulic clutch mask issues with clutch stack height?

No it does not.
It may make the clutch pull easier than it was with the cable but getting the stack height right is key in having an easy to pull clutch with clean disengagement. Jim
 
Ya should notice by now that you can just put in all the plates and see the gap left or stack over lap of the the spring groove. Just mix and match till lever feels good which is about when the gap is 1/16" or less. In truth we could keep em all stock and enjoy most the joys of a easy operation Commando which means more consumables to deal wth AAU's to cables. Personally I now think those that find the clutch effort a bother have some neurological issues with their neck. Like vented primary appearances mean a lot to us motorcyclers.
 
My clutch was so hard to pull that my hand would cramp up and I was really hating riding my Norton for more than 30 minutes in town......

I looked at the pivot pin in the clutch lever...it was worn half way through from no lubrication over possibly 41 years. It actually made a squeaky creaking sound when applied. I replaced the pivot pin (well greased this time) and installed a Venhill Teflon lined cable and it was like a new bike. I didn't even mess with the clutch plate stack height. It is now about the same as my 2000 Harley. Not a 2 finger pull but perfectly acceptable.
 
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