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Kthomas

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I have power to tail lamp but not to the headlamp and ignition. I have a new harness and I’m using a tri sparks with a podtronics type regulator ( bonneville shop ). It’s positive ground. The condensers , rectifier and diode is gone. It has good grounds everywhere. I’m not the best with electrickery . it is a 73 850. I have plugged everything else in properly according to the schematics but no juice up front. I know it’s got to be something simple but ? Maybe a jumper from condenser wire to coil ?
Thanks
 
Kthomas said:
I have power to tail lamp but not to the headlamp and ignition.
Click to expand...


The headlamp feed should be a blue/yellow UY running from ignition switch terminal 4 (assuming it's an original Lucas ignition switch. If aftermarket then T4 may not work?) to the junction area below the fuel tank and then to the headlamp toggle switch.
With the ignition switch set to the 'Ignition and Lights' position, there should be power all the way to the headlamp toggle switch, then with the headlamp toggle switch ON from there to the handlebar dip (Hi/Lo) switch through blue (U) then either blue/white UW or UR to the bulb connections.

Ignition feed is white (W) from ignition switch terminal 2 and that again goes to the junction area below the fuel tank where it connects with other W wires one of which should go to the handlebar switch cluster kill button, then white/yellow running back to the junction area where it should ultimately (with an extension wire if necessary?) connect to the Tri-Spark module black/yellow.



Kthomas said:
Maybe a jumper from condenser wire to coil ?
Click to expand...

No, not for positive ground.
Connecting white to the Tri-Spark black/yellow bypasses the kill switch (button).
Connecting a (preferably fused) jumper wire from battery negative to the Tri-Spark black/yellow bypasses both kill switch and ignition switch.
 
Ok
Thanks
This gives me something to work with.
I’ll troubleshoot these areas.
I really do appreciate the help. I get lazy when I have to think too much. It’s painful.
 
I threw in a couple of emoji’s but I guess you have to be a paying guest to use those.
Anyway, thanks for the laugh ! :)
 
L.A.B. said:
The headlamp feed should be a blue/yellow UY running from ignition switch terminal 4 (assuming it's an original Lucas ignition switch. If aftermarket then T4 may not work?) to the junction area below the fuel tank and then to the headlamp toggle switch.
With the ignition switch set to the 'Ignition and Lights' position, there should be power all the way to the headlamp toggle switch, then with the headlamp toggle switch ON from there to the handlebar dip (Hi/Lo) switch through blue (U) then either blue/white UW or UR to the bulb connections.

Ignition feed is white (W) from ignition switch terminal 2 and that again goes to the junction area below the fuel tank where it connects with other W wires one of which should go to the handlebar switch cluster kill button, then white/yellow running back to the junction area where it should ultimately (with an extension wire if necessary?) connect to the Tri-Spark module black/yellow.
Click to expand...

I ve got that part sorted now. Part of the issue was a crappy ignition switch which only functioned after wiggling. Also, I needed to add the extension from the white yellow to the Tri-spark. Now I need to figure out which headlight lens to get. All I have is a sealed beam and I want to use a LED. I’ve looked through the old post but was wondering what the best setup is now. Bonneville shop has a plug and play. Is this a good one ? Also, I need a new lens and after looking on Andover’s site I’m more confused than ever. There are several 7 inch lens’s with and without pilot.
 
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Anyone who's got one of these , unless its lived indoors , and Even Then ! , might consider STRIPPING it and CLEANING ALL THE CONTACTS , like you do on any other LUCAS switchgear . Car or Bike .

5.000 year old equipment is liable to be oxidised , dusty & grubby . Even if its only 10 or 20 years old .

Half power
 
Kthomas said:
Any suggestions on lens ?
Click to expand...
www.accessnorton.com

H-4 LED.

Read a lot of the postings. I would like to get opnions on the LED that has the best "origional" lught pattern and fits inside the stock headlight reflector on a 75 Commando
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
In the process of working out bugs in my system ! One problem is crappy parts. The new wiring harness is one issue. The fuse holder didn't even function properly and then stopped functioning at all . Had to remove plastic covering one of the contacts. Another issue is my main switch. It’s an old one I had laying around ( now I know why ). It is a 7 prong one. I need to buy another. The question I have : Bike is a 73. i just read that the 73 had a 4 prong version. Would I be just as well to buy the 4 prong or ? It has a 73 harness. If so, are some better than others ? Will tumblers switch over between the two or ?
 
Kthomas said:
The question I have : Bike is a 73. i just read that the 73 had a 4 prong version. Would I be just as well to buy the 4 prong or ? It has a 73 harness. If so, are some better than others ? Will tumblers switch over between the two or ?
Click to expand...

The 4 terminal ignition switch was used from early '72 up to and including the 850 Mk3 so had the same switch in the pic, below.

Terminals 1, 2 & 3 of the original switch have double tabs (prongs?) and a single T4 tab.
Half power
 
Maybe I’m referring to the different switches incorrectly. Is the switch in the picture correct for a 73. Also, what about using the ones with 4 spade connectors ( just on and off ? )
 
Kthomas said:
Maybe I’m referring to the different switches incorrectly. Is the switch in the picture correct for a 73.
Click to expand...

Yes, as I mentioned, the switch in my pic. is the correct and only ignition switch from early '72.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk

Kthomas said:
Also, what about using the ones with 4 spade connectors ( just on and off ? )
Click to expand...

That's the wrong ('68-'70) switch although it could be used if brown/blue is connected to one side of the switch with two common spade terminals and the remaining three wires (white, brown/green and blue/yellow) are connected to the other pair of common spade terminals so all lights will be on with the ignition ON and headlamp only, either OFF or ON according to the headlamp toggle switch position).
Or brown/blue (battery neg.) and blue/yellow (headlamp) could be connected to the same common pair of terminals but the headlamp feed would then be permanently 'hot' as far as the headlamp toggle switch and would have to be used to turn the headlamp on and off regardless of the ignition switch/key position.
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts

Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.
andover-norton.co.uk
andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
 
Kthomas said:
Maybe I’m referring to the different switches incorrectly. Is the switch in the picture correct for a 73. Also, what about using the ones with 4 spade connectors ( just on and off ? )
Click to expand...

The original switches are higher quality than the modern Lucas brand parts so worth saving (with appropriate tools to do so ! ) and quite often only need cleaning, the inner poles lapping and the outer spades realigned carefully as needed.
For something so old (1973) this was a joy to work on and came up all but new.

Half power Half power Half power Half power
 
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