It's nice looking for sure, especially with the beadazzle of those Carrillo rods and black ARP nuts on there. I believe Mr Maney made lighter cranks than Andy as well.
Oh yeah, I've thought about all of that. Aside from the machine work and unknown length issue between the engine and swingarm, the other issue is one of the legs on the foot rest mount on the drive side goes through the primary cases on a P11. That might be a mild challenge to work around, but not too difficult.
NEB makes bolt-on belt drive kits for all kinds of motorcycles, but not the P11. The primary on a P11 is too narrow for a belt to fit in between the inner and outer primary covers when bolted together. It is doable with extensive modification to use a kit that works on an N15, G15 and a couple of others, and has been done, but I am not motivated enough to put in the work in to make it happen right now.
If you think about it, this is the only way. The only other way would be to make them a nice easy fit… which means that in many used bores, they’d be sloppy and work loose !This is the second set of BSA lifter blocks I've dealt with. Both sets get wider at the bottom and do not go into the standard size bores without excessive force. They need a little bit of light sanding and then polishing with scotchbrite or whatever one's favorite fitting tools are to get them to slide in.
As far as the BSA block will easily go in on the Right. Left side block has been fit.
How often is “a few times” ?Warmed up enough for me to actually start on the next "re-build" of my P11 engine. I like to think of my P11 as a P11 Special, but I think I'm going to rethink that and call it a Blue Flag Special.
Got as far as getting the head off. I may have mentioned that I ran the little thing up over 7000 RPM a few times. As luck would have it that didn't work out so well. Results are I did blow out a little section of the head gasket. Unfortunately, it was right where the oil return drain is. I think I might have put one of a big end rod bearings in the hurt locker as well. Bores look OK. Pushrod tunnels are disgusting. Will no more tomorrow.
Ouch
By DESIGN? Or by virtue of a phenom of the part "spreading" (stress releiving) when the slot is milled across a turned part?
Could be either. But my point is that it is often required to ‘fettle to fit’ if aiming for blue printed standards. However, these days, folk seem to think it shouldn’t be necessary.By DESIGN? Or by virtue of a phenom of the part "spreading" (stress releiving) when the slot is milled across a turned part?
I'd guess the latter, and it still works ok. Verify lifter side clearance in situ.
JMWO
3/8 x 20 tpi BSF for the 4 head bolts and 7/8 x 26 tpi CEI for the two front studs. If made right, those studs have a longer thread engagement than stock. Reducing stress in the threaded joints is particularly important for an alu barrel, and use of reduced shank bolts is suggested. Maybe JSM can be talked into making a bolt kit which suits the Molnar barrel?
I'll check, but other differences aside I think the Molnar bolts have the same amount of thread engagement as the cNw bolts did in the iron barrels. Edit: There is more thread on the Molnar head to barrel bolts, but they won't penetrate the barrels anymore than the cNw bolts did.
Alternatively, I can buy Molnar cases that are stronger and have the inserts in them already. Might be less painful buying new cases that having to deal the frustration involved with putting my cases in machinist jail for a month to get 4 inserts installed. I could do the inserts myself, but if they are out of alignment at all, I'll be fighting getting the through bolts started and properly torqued.