Fullauto Head

I have an RH4 head on my Commando which so far seems to perform, but Ihave the offer to purchase a Fullauto head.

Please give me your thoughts in a spontaneous reply, would you go for it despite it not being an urgent must at the moment.

I have a RH4 head on my 1975 Commando which i would be sorry to see it go even for a Fullauto.

ELLIS

Woody850 said:

I have an RH4 head on my Commando which so far seems to perform, but Ihave the offer to purchase a Fullauto head.

Please give me your thoughts in a spontaneous reply, would you go for it despite it not being an urgent must at the moment.

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Hello,
If you can afford it, go for it. It is quality wise in every way the best investment for the future. These heads are near to perfect.
Best Regards Klaus

Yes. My old RH10 is in the FA box on the shelf just in case, no regrets.

Woody850 said:

Please give me your thoughts in a spontaneous reply, would you go for it despite it not being an urgent must at the moment.

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They are a very nice cylinder head but lacked quality control (pride) if my one is anything to go by which was disappointing given the low number made.

If the head you are looking at is anywhere around #170 you need to check the ports for signs of a die grinder being used in the bowl to insert transition which means you need to check the valve seat faces very carefully for damage from the same tool.

Here is your predicament.
At this point in time there is no production of these heads (as far as I know) but manufacture of them will start again ? in the USA via the new manufacturer at some point.

We would hope that person will not only turn out a as new product (without swarf still stuck between the fins ) but also address some of the other oddities like the retained weak 3/8-20 tpi threads.

The future cost is unknown, will it be more than the head you have been offered or less.

Would I buy another one, no unless I was only looking for something that looks pretty from the outside casting wise based on my bike coming stock with an RH10 that was in fine form.
The irony for me is I only bought the FA head to avoid sending the RH10 out to have the seats done because there were few places competent (but found SERCO Motorsport since then)

The 850 FA head cost close to $4000 with valve train components , the 750 RH1 head JC did for me cost $1300 and that includes buying it off US eBay, having it posted to Jim and to have the seats done, guides installed, Kibblewhite valves supplied along with alu/bronze inserts on the exhaust ports and three 3/8 studs and post to Australia.
In hindsight I could have sent the RH10 to him for a fraction of the cost of the FA even with double international post, the bonus being you actually get a head ready to bolt one but no fancy box with contoured polystyrene packing to put on the mantle piece.

If you have a cracked RH4 that might be something else but I would wait for the US version, why not contact them to see where production is at ?
If the FA head you are being offered is cheap it might be worth the gamble after close inspection just remember they were expensive but that is an expense you might get fifty cents on the dollar back on.

Just remember the FA head will not work properly unless you also fit 2.5 inch wheel rims and Avon tyres.

Hi Woody

If I had the funds I would buy it & out it away. I am sure the new heads when they are made in America will exceptional given the thoughtfulness & quality of the items they have so far produced. They will I believe cost more.
My friend has had a full referb on his head 4 months & a thousand pounds later he has a fabulous 43 year old head
Chris

Well, I was sorry that I was unable to set enough money aside to be able to buy one before the production stopped. That being said I look forward to the next generation from the new owners, they're bound to have improvements, evolution is a wonderful thing. Since your bike isn't down for worn out/damaged head, I'd wait. Cj

Time Warp said:

If the head you are looking at is anywhere around #170 you need to check the ports for signs of a die grinder being used in the bowl to insert transition which means you need to check the valve seat faces very carefully for damage from the same tool.

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Has anyone else found this to be true on their F/A head?

Ed

Well I called this morning after making up my mind but it was too late

But as it is the Gods must be with me urging me to spare the cash for something else.

I did however recieve very helpful information regarding repairs with Laser Welding.

I thank you all for your very helpfull information it spurred me to decide and yes I heard about the new American production
but it seems set-backs are holding back the release date.

Oh and if you read this Klaus and you are near me it would be good to meet up.

All the best to you all John

APRRSV said:

Has anyone else found this to be true on their F/A head?

Ed

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I have FA head #172.

Only issue was that the plug holes were tight. I could hand thread in plugs when cold, but not my piston stop. It would go into the old RH10.

I put it down to wear on the old head, until I was doing some plug chops and the plugs were super tight and I buggered a couple threads one one side.

Chasing the threads with a good tap fixed the issues.

This is the head straight out of the box.

That's the one in your third photo with the die grinding and would be curious to know where you got that head.

On FA # 170 who ever did that grinding hit the valve seat, my main concern is no one else has that problem because there is no warranty, not then, not now.

I have decided to run it as is and join RACQ.

Time Warp said:

That's the one in your third photo with the die grinding and would be curious to know where you got that head.

On FA # 170 who ever did that grinding hit the valve seat, my main concern is no one else has that problem because there is no warranty, not then, not now.

I have decided to run it as is and join RACQ.

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No warranty? Since when?

gortnipper said:

This is the head straight out of the box.

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I'm feeling the pain!

Woody850 said:

Oh and if you read this Klaus and you are near me it would be good to meet up.

All the best to you all John

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Yes Woody,
You are very welcome to see me in Eschborn near Frankfurt (Main). The Bier is already cold. We can discuss FA- Cylinder heads.
Best Regards
Klaus

Fullauto said:

No warranty? Since when?

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Why are you under the impression that there is no warranty on Fullauto heads? I'm afraid my crystal ball is in for a service.

Klaus Monning said:

You are very welcome to see me in Eschborn near Frankfurt (Main).

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You didn't happen to visit the Glemseck 101 on the old Solitude racing circuit or the Mannheim Veterama did you? If yes then we probably brushed shoulders.

John

Fullauto said:

Why are you under the impression that there is no warranty on Fullauto heads? I'm afraid my crystal ball is in for a service.

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I'm curious why we haven't heard from Timewarp regarding warranty.

Ed

I have a dream
That one day every component from a Commando must have the quality of a Fullauto head or a TTI gearbox
Yves

Time Warp said:

That's the one in your third photo with the die grinding and would be curious to know where you got that head.

On FA # 170 who ever did that grinding hit the valve seat, my main concern is no one else has that problem because there is no warranty, not then, not now.

I have decided to run it as is and join RACQ.

Click to expand...

Well, I'm waiting on your answer. Who told you this? I stand by my products and always have. What gives?