Full Auto Head owners, please share your experiences

Jonez69

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I'm servicing a 72' Commando for a friend and noticed that it is equipped with a Full Auto Technologies head. My friend only told me he has receipts from work done by CNW but I have not seen said receipts. I think he bought the bike only because he wanted a Norton and it was offered at a very good price. It does need a bit of TLC, which I am giving it now. I would like to hear from Full Auto owners what exactly makes these heads worthy of the investment. I have no experience with them and this is the first one I have seen...
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Not sure of the exhaustive list (pardon the pun) but the cast alloy has less porosity (as in none that I am aware) than OEM. The exhaust ports have flat floors ("D" shaped)
Mine has been trouble free - now 6 years old and 17,000 miles. It has standard compression and 22 tooth sprocket and will redline (7500rpm) in top gear, so I'm happy.
I have heard some complain the "alloy is softer" but I don't believe there is any credible science behind these claims.
Cheers
 
What serial number?

Mine is Australian made and I have had it for around 12 years. I bought through Mick Hemmings in the UK when he was the UK agent. I certainly thought it a thing of beauty when I bought it and it saved me waiting 12 months for Steve Maney to get an original item one prepped for me, which alongside the cylinder barrel and rocker arms would have been the only used parts in the engine. The porting on inlet and exhaust was developed by Jim Comstock and it is very effective

It is on a 750 short stroke in a race bike, but has standard valve angles and sizes, skimmed 20 thou.. It works very well coupled with a PW3 profile (Now a JSM version) and a bit of compression (around 10.5:1).

I am guessing that is what you have. A more recent product will have been made in the US.

Some say the alloy used in the Australian one was soft, but in fact they were made by different foundries in small batches during the production life, so I believe that varies. I can see some signs of softer material, but I still think it is 100% better than an original Norton casting. If you pull it off see if the main 3/8" bolts have sunk into the head at all, that seemed to be the symptom that was mentioned.

I have had to put inserts in for the studs. But, of course, it has been on and off more times than would be the case with a road bike.

Definitely money well spent. I'm happy with it.

If I was flush with cash I might be interested in a US made one, which by most assessments is better quality both at the casting and machining execution, I particularly like that it has inserts for the studs as standard. The design itself is the same and was developed in Australia with access to original drawings owned at that time by Mick Hemmings.
 
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I have one of the later cylinder heads from Australia.
I have had problems with the four 3/8" bolt holes collapsing inwardly. What I found was that these four bolts were not tight after a European trip
(head was fitted just before commencing the trip) and then that I had problems getting the bolts out of the head as the walls of the holes had collapsed inwardly very slightly onto the bolts. The bolts had to be tapped out lightly with a drift. I'm surprised that the head gasket didn't blow.
To overcome this problem, Seager Engineering suggested fitting four "top hat" inserts into these bolt holes, but am still finding that the two bolts
nearest to the exhaust are either settling very slightly or very slowly sinking, maybe 0.002" per 1000 miles, but the side walls are being kept open by the inserts. I also had colisbro threaded inserts put into the three stud holes under the head for additional safety.
Apart from this nothing else detrimental, and of course mods as described by SteveA.
 
I have an early Aus made FA head and also had problems with the alloy crushing under the bolts. Combination of top hats and cNw (ARP) waisted bolts seems to have done the trick.
 
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