Alton Electric Starter - Share Your Experience

The Podtronics is not the same. The Zeners are a shunt regulator. The Pod is a series regulator. Google series and shunt regulators if you want to know the difference.

FYI - the regulator system on my bike is the Boyer Powerbox - it is the 3-phase type as the previous alternator was a 3-phase Lucas unit. The Powerbox has been rewired such that it can operate with the new Alton 150w single-phase alternator - no problems.

batrider said:

The Podtronics is not the same. The Zeners are a shunt regulator. The Pod is a series regulator. Google series and shunt regulators if you want to know the difference.

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I did; clearly explained, thanks.

Alton Corrected the starter problem free of charge thanks to their warranty!!!

hampdenguy said:

I had an alton electric starter conversion and it works fine when the engine is cold but when the motor gets hot the starter doesn't engage properly and it seems to make a loud grinding noise but does not engage properly so i have to kick start it.Im hoping there is some adjustment i can try to correct the problem but so far i have not heard anything about it anywhere else.any info or help would be appreciated.

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I suggest you inform your supplier of the problem as soon as possible if you haven't already done so, as it sounds like the sprag unit could be faulty?

hampdenguy said:

I had an alton electric starter conversion and it works fine when the engine is cold but when the motor gets hot the starter doesn't engage properly and it seems to make a loud grinding noise but does not engage properly so i have to kick start it.Im hoping there is some adjustment i can try to correct the problem but so far i have not heard anything about it anywhere else.any info or help would be appreciated.

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Yes, please contact Altn directly, if you can include a video it would help identify the problem.

Jean

I have recently fitted the belt version.
My 850cc machine was built by Norvil Motorcycles, from spares in 2002 and has a primary belt drive.
Hawkshaw Motorcycles starting advertising it very recently so I took the plunge and ordered one after assurances from Jim Hawkshaw that it would be compatible with a Norvil belt drive.
I stripped out the primary drive and tried to fit the new Alton chaincase. It would not lay flat on the crankcase. The Alton starter motor gearbox on the rear of the chaincase was fouling the crankcase. I ground away a little metal from the crankcase and obtained a good fit. The problem here is that later crankcases are thicker and Alton had not allowed for this. There was worse to come!

I had not touched the gearbox adjustment and simply went to replace the clutch pulley. It would not fit as it was fouling the cast pillar. It would fit if the gearbox was pushed back but then my belt was too short and my rear drive chain was almost hanging on the floor!
Jim Hawkshaw was very helpful and immediately set about resolving the problem. He was hampered by the fact that my problem arose just when Paul at Alton left for a two week holiday. We considered finding a longer belt but this in the end proved too difficult. Because the Norvil 72 tooth clutch pulley is alloy, it is very thick and large in diameter. The total gearbox adjustment range was only about 5mm making specifying a belt length very difficult. The longer term solution to enable this clutch pulley to be used would be to redesign the casting and I understand Alton is considering this.

Whilst all this was going on I did a trial fit of the crankshaft components and found that the starter chain drive would not align. This was largely due to the design of the Norvil crank pulley side plate, which would have required modification.
So Jim at Hawkshaw determined that the only way to get me out of this fix was to supply a new belt drive kit. In co-operation with Tony Hayward, he arranged for Tony to despatch one to me free of charge and it duly arrived in a couple of days.

The Hayward drive uses a 10mm pitch belt as opposed to the Norvil 8mm pitch and although the clutch pulley is anodised alloy, it is much smaller in diameter. Assembly was much easier than before but there were still some minor adjustments to make. To obtain alignment of the crank and clutch pulleys I needed to grind the clutch circlip spacer down by about 1.5mm. I had re-used the original clutch centre so whether this was due to a peculiarity of the Norvil item, I can’t say. Also, the starter chain was out of alignment by a similar amount and the back face of the large spacer between the crank pulley and the sprag required grinding down.

Apart from a bit of easing of crankshaft keyways, everything else went together perfectly. Once the assembly was complete minus the alternator, I was able to run the starter with the engine spark plugs removed and check that the belt ran true. Setting the rotor gap on the alternator is a doddle using the supplied shims. On the electrical side, the bracket supplied for the starter relay is designed to fit on top of a YTX-20L-BS battery but I preferred to fit a Shorai LFX18 Li-ion type to save space and weight. The extra space in the battery compartment allowed me to bolt down the relay and also fit my Scotoiler reservoir.

Starting on the button is instant! I can't tell you how thrilled I am to have a bike I can just get on and ride without busting my knee!
In summary, the Alton kit will fit a belt drive bike but not all of them. They have some more work to do to make it truly universal but I think we have to appreciate the enormity of the task and accept that some customisation may be necessary. I have only the highest praise for Jim Hawkshaw for generously doing his utmost to ensure I got the end result I wanted and also for Tony Hayward for helping out and giving advice on the phone.

That looks mighty tempting. but I still can kick the old gal so I'll resist temptation.

I couldn't tell from the photos: how do you set the timing?

seventyfour said:

I couldn't tell from the photos: how do you set the timing?

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Well, when you install it you don't touch the timing! :mrgreen:

swoosh once again showing a consistent level of helpfulness.

seventyfour said:

swoosh once again showing a consistent level of helpfulness.

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Captain Obvious at your service!

Well - after reading all of the posts I find it hard to believe the problems. I must say that it's a great joy to walk out to my Mk2A Commando, sit on the bike and dab the button. It starts instantly every time (Tri-Spark Ignition helps I'm sure). The only thing to get used to is the slight 'whiring' noise from the sprag clutch.

$2500 seems a lot for a starter on a $6-8000 motorcycle, but I suppose if it allows one to continue riding when no longer able to kickstart, it could be worth the cost.
It would be more desireable if it was a bendix type starter however. I do not care for the sprag idea, just seems problematic in concept and in practice.

Glen

worntorn said:

$2500 seems a lot for a starter on a $6-8000 motorcycle, but I suppose if it allows one to continue riding when no longer able to kickstart, it could be worth the cost.
It would be more desireable if it was a bendix type starter however. I do not care for the sprag idea, just seems problematic in concept and in practice.

Glen

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Break open a "Bendix" and you'll find a sprag.

RS

worntorn said:

$2500 seems a lot for a starter on a $6-8000 motorcycle, but I suppose if it allows one to continue riding when no longer able to kickstart, it could be worth the cost.
It would be more desireable if it was a bendix type starter however. I do not care for the sprag idea, just seems problematic in concept and in practice.

Glen

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How much is a good paint job? how much to replace a fiberglass tank for a steel tank? How much is a valve job?

I do the groceries each week and come up with $200+ while I could live with cheese sandwiches for much less, life would be bland so getting an electric starter which was just a dream a few years ago and being able to ride the motorcycle that makes me feel good is a very small investment.

Put the money in the bank, at 3% it will take 24 years to double or take the plunge and enjoy yourself. I will be 64 soon, if I can still ride at 88, for sure I will need a push button to start it, so I may as well get it now :mrgreen:

Jean

there are 2 differences in the Bendix. one and most importantly it IS NOT in constant over run like on the Norton and two is all the Bendix drives I have had apart is a cam and roller type which technically is NOT a sprag, but both could be called an overrunning clutch. IMHO a bendix type of starter like old britts or QPD is the better answer.

RoadScholar said:

Break open a "Bendix" and you'll find a sprag.

RS

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bill said:

IMHO a bendix type of starter like old britts or QPD is the better answer.

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Old Britts or QPD better than Alton in what way?
Technically? : questionable!
Price? : certainly not!
Easy mounting? : certainly not!
Looks? : certainly not!
IMHO Alton is favourite.

IMHO it is technically better for the reasons I stated. it is NOT in an over run state with a sprag clutch that is a KNOWN weakness with the 850 MK3 and unproven in LONG term use on the Alton. the Alton also has a lower watt output alternator than is available so another draw back. without seeing torque to the crank shaft numbers from either one from all appearances the Alton MIGHT be the looser on this point but that is just a guess on my part. yes it is more expensive and you do loose the OE look's with an after market air filter.

nortonspeed said:

Old Britts or QPD better than Alton in what way?
Technically? : questionable!
Price? : certainly not!
Looks? : certainly not!
IMHO Alton is favourite.

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