Front iso need help please

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Snakepit

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I am in the process of exchanging the front iso on my 73 750 to the vernier type. I am using the conversion kit from RGM motors. What is the procedure to get the mount back in the bike? I try from the bottom or the top or cocked sideways but no luck. Do I have to remove the head steady? thanks
 
Snakepit said:
Do I have to remove the head steady? thanks
I know this was one of the more frustrating things I have done. Seems like the headsteady had to come off. After all said and done, the headsteady needs to be set as the final adjustment.

I remember prying and stretching and pulling......I don't know if there is a trick and if there is, I missed it, but I got it in there eventually. It is possible.
 
Head steady and also anything else preventing full lift of engine, carb-filter connection, coil pack must be removed. Rear suspension loading hinders/resists the freed engine cradle lift-pivot on the rear iso, so helps to have frame on a box or lift so rear mass helps counter engine weight. Not too hard then to lever or jack up from under to get front mount to clear frame tabs. Measure distance betwix front tabs then the length of new mount to know where to set it or what to alter [ugh] til it slips right in, ie: with reasonable levering & pounding so iso bolt slides home. Then can play with the gap vs vibration vs handling till sweetest compromise in untamed flying carpet. Can take a few 100 miles to bed in. I am very pleased with the gap vs vibration vs handling after 45' beveling off the corners of the big cushions on my un-tamed flying carpet.
 
Frame downtubes are often pinched inwards and need to be gently spread to insert the front iso assembly. HOW you gently spread them is up to you!
 
grandpaul said:
Frame downtubes are often pinched inwards and need to be gently spread to insert the front iso assembly. HOW you gently spread them is up to you!

I ran threaded rod stock through the front downtube mounts with nuts to the inside. Then turned them out gently. Seemed to work.
 
850cmndo said:
grandpaul said:
Frame downtubes are often pinched inwards and need to be gently spread to insert the front iso assembly. HOW you gently spread them is up to you!

I ran threaded rod stock through the front downtube mounts with nuts to the inside. Then turned them out gently. Seemed to work.

That's one of the better solutions. I used a very small floor jack that just fit with 2 pieces of 3/8" thick plywood to keep from scratching the frame. One pump at a time, remove jack and test fit; repeat 'till the spacing is right.

In my case, I used vernier adjustable isolastics and got them to JUST fit at the narrowest setting to that the adjusters would have the most internal threading interface possible.
 
My Trixie seemed to suffer pinched close lower down tubes/tab area, maybe form the deer impact that bend the stanchions and under spine tube. I about stripped out 1/2" all tread trying to spread the tabs plus with wood block driven in too. I eventually gave up on that and just trimmed back the mount tube till able to screw in venier iso no problemo. The tabs spread force mostly just twists the tubes which then mostly spring back on release in my case, which if ya press an untammed C'do hard enough definitely adds to the horribleness of full Hinge onset.
 
Finally got it! Removed the head steady and jacked the engine a bit. thanks for the tips!
 
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