Front brake upgrade..........

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The main problem with fitting dual discs on a Commando is probably the availability of the other fork slider to carry the second calliper. Is anyone making them ? One disc on a Commando is not enough if you are doing serious speed.
My front brake is a Honda CB750 hub with two Suzuki steel discs, two Lockheed AP callipers with asbestos linings, and a Lockheed lever which is intended for use with one calliper. It is extremely light and reliable. I bought the discs and the hub from the wreckers - cheap. Not this classic British bullshit - I like living too much.
In 1973, the Japanese were light years ahead of the British in everything except handling. You don't need modern four-pot callipers because your Commando will never have 100 BHP. You can grab my front brake lever at any speed and you will stop the front wheel, whether the brake is red hot or stone cold. One finger is always enough. Whenever I race, I only use one finger on the brake lever while the others turn the throttle. On a road bike, you might need a harder lever - you might grab it too hard when you are half asleep.
 
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When my Norton stock disc brake system tried to kill me and while recovering from a broken arm and thumb I replaced my whole front brake system with a full Grimeca system from RGM, MC, lever, calliper, SS hose and 12" semi floating disc, this was about 6 years ago and I can tell you its one of the best upgrades I have done to my brakes system, it has brought my front brakes up to modern bike braking and easy one or two finger braking, that's where the longer lever comes into play, my Norton front brake is as good as the front brakes on my Thruxton's, well worth the money and it looks good on the bike having that big 12" disc up front, I have about 35k miles on this set up and it still as good as the day I put it on.
After 44 years on my Norton and many stock front brake rebuilds over those years I should have saved my money and replaced the stock brakes completely a long time ago, as one day your stock Norton front brake will let you down and without warning, is your life worth it, I know mine is and really what a small price to pay for a full brake system that works as good as any modern day brake system.

Ashley
 
While I very much respect those posters who tout highly upgraded braking systems from what ever source,
and I often wish I had one of those systems, I don't! I have the stock OEM system, though upgraded with
a 13mm master cylinder along with Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads. Oh, and I had my brake disc Blanchard
ground. No, this isn't even close to my modern Yamaha, but is quite nice. It stops very well. I don't ride
in urban situations and I don't race. Just saying that a stock setup with upgrades works quite well.
 
I had the standard Lockheed Caliper, stainless hose and a japanese 13mm pump on my fastback.
The initial braking power wasnt that bad, but on tight downhill roads with lots of hairpins it startet fading and squealing.
I like the stock look of the Lockheed caliper but the combination of a fixed caliper and a fixed disc is complete crap.
 
Clearly shows that how and where you ride are the deciding factors in brake choice.
My Commando has the best brakes of all my bikes. So you can see my riding style is a lot
less aggressive than others. I get passed by riders on modern bikes doing stuff I'd never do but
I realize their machines are far more capable than mine. Since I've never had a modern bike I don't
ride as if I'm aboard one.
 
I use the Lockheed caliper like Norvil sells along with a 12mm m/c from Brembo. Disc was blanchard ground. Really works well, great feel to it.
 
While I very much respect those posters who tout highly upgraded braking systems from what ever source,
and I often wish I had one of those systems, I don't! I have the stock OEM system, though upgraded with
a 13mm master cylinder along with Ferodo Platinum Brake Pads. Oh, and I had my brake disc Blanchard
ground. No, this isn't even close to my modern Yamaha, but is quite nice. It stops very well. I don't ride
in urban situations and I don't race. Just saying that a stock setup with upgrades works quite well.
One of the worst situations you can get into is when you get into a corner too hot and find yourself running wide with a bike which does not tighten it's line if you accelerate. It means you end up braking too hard when you are cranked over. If you have a really good front brake, you can sometimes stand the bike up and grab a handful to knock the speed off, then resume the lean to get around without running off. With my bike, when I race I brake hard into the corners while cranked over at minimum lean, then get straight back onto the gas to get the bike to steer itself around the corner. With most road bikes, you cannot do that. A mediocre front brake does not do you any favours. You only die once.
 
I’ve already purchased the 13 mm Andover m/c which should be fine. I am unsure as to who to go with for the caliper and floating disc. RGM do one as do Norvil..........
 
For many years I raced with a drum front brake. If you cannot rely on your front brake to be there when you need it without it killing you, it can cause extreme anxiety. In Australia, we have an historic race class for which only drum brakes are permitted. It is the ultimate in stupidity. In the old days, the combination of drum brakes and pudding basin helmets was deadly. Disc brakes are a whole new world. Mostly they are extremely effective and reliable.
 
For many years I raced with a drum front brake. If you cannot rely on your front brake to be there when you need it without it killing you, it can cause extreme anxiety. In Australia, we have an historic race class for which only drum brakes are permitted. It is the ultimate in stupidity. In the old days, the combination of drum brakes and pudding basin helmets was deadly. Disc brakes are a whole new world. Mostly they are extremely effective and reliable.
Thanks for the update Al
 
A couple of you have stated the Norvil one is poor.......... I think I’ll go with the rgm one then.
Thanks .......
 
A couple of you have stated the Norvil one is poor.......... I think I’ll go with the rgm one then.
Thanks .......
The RGM one feels to me to be made from the same material... and with this the caliper mounting holes are oval, so make sure once everything is aligned the through bolts are tightened fully
Further I made up some spacers to insert either side of the bolt shank so it couldn't move
TO be honest IMHO to Norvil bracket is the better off the two
 
There are various posts about the Norvil inner being made of cheese, I have seem no posts complaining of the RGM inner. There are different grades of aluminium alloy and various heat treatments to vary the properties. Norvil have made the wrong choice, RGM the right choice on the inner.
 
There are various posts about the Norvil inner being made of cheese, I have seem no posts complaining of the RGM inner. There are different grades of aluminium alloy and various heat treatments to vary the properties. Norvil have made the wrong choice, RGM the right choice on the inner.
Inner???
 

Disc inner the disc floating outer runs on.

The issues are discussed here

 
I see... The difference with me is that I'm using The none floating OE disc and the caliper support bracket is different
 
For what it’s worth, I use the CNW m/c for the front brake along with the matching m/c hydraulic clutch and handlebar controls from Matt. They all work so well and look so good on the bars. Totally changed the way my bike functions, much less effort required which makes for smoother and safer riding. Matt is always very supportive and I enjoy working with him. It’s worth the wait, in my opinion.
 
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