jaydee75 said:
...but I'm used to dirt bikes wih forks that could have absorbed the jolts easily. What's the best way to improve fork action at the extreme? It would sure be a lot safer.
Jaydee
With a limited amount of travel, there's only so much that can be done. Except in Hobot's case, they were never intended for anything more than uneven road surfaces. If you were to try to modify valving, spring rates, and end stops to "absorb" bigger transitions, you'd find them to be so harsh over "regular" road surfaces that you'd swear you were riding with
no suspension.
Unless you swap front and rear for longer travel suspension, you get what you get. 'Might as well go the dual-sport route in that case. Keep in mind that increasing the travel will adversely affect the bike's geometry under extreme maneuvers, which is why even modern sport bikes don't have a great deal of suspension travel.
Updating the fork internals and using upgraded rear shocks will help on the road, but we're still stuck with the limiting factor of the miniscule travel. With that being said, there's a couple of mods and/or fork internal upgrades that have been spoken of in these hallowed pages, if' you'll do a bit of searching. I modded mine as spoken of at
http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/norton-roadholders (Covenant mod), and it does help at top and bottom. The most disturbing thing for me that it got rid of was the unsettling metallic "clank" when jerking it up onto the center stand. As I was rebuilding my forks at the time, I used the old top bushings with the step cut off to act as top stops. You can always buy them outright at
http://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/extra-lo ... g_2298.htm if you're not as cheap as me.
You can always swap out the entire guts with the Lansdowne kit. No personal experience, but you can search using that name.
I'm relieved to hear you and the bike came out unscathed!
Nathan