Flood Victim

Thank you all gentlemen. It's been a very satisfying slog through the mud and rust and it isn't quite over yet. Got the gauges out of the box today for checking and the tach is stuck, so I might as well send them both off (along with the constipated tach from the SS clone) and get them refurbished.
 
I guess it's a real Norton. Gearbox lube is leaking out the kicker shaft. Trying to remember if I just replaced the o-ring or used one of those fancy double-lipped seals. Whatever went in there, it ain't working.
 
I've had good luck with Mobil 1 products in all my vehicles. Both types of bike oil test very high in any type of comparison test. My buddy's '07 Wide Glide has over 60,000 trouble-free miles using the 20/50 Mobil 1 bike oil. To me, the only reason NOT to use synthetic (other than the ever-escalating price) is if you enjoy oi changes enough to do twice as many.
 
I think I did a ton more scrubbing of nuts and bolts than replacing things. If my paint scheme works out, I'll be happy.
 
Scrubbed the inside of the cover with upholstery cleaner, Still some stains. Might try some fabric spray to encapsulate the rust stains

Flood Victim
 
Hi Danno,
What is the "fabric spray" that you mention? What do you mean by "encapsulate".

Ed
 
Well I know nothing sticks to rust and I'm going to sand and repaint the pan. I thought there might be some flexible cloth coating I could swab into the rust line where the cover was stretched onto the pan to keep it from starting up again. Might not even be necessary. Paint is much better now than the crap they used on the seat pans back in '73.
 
To 'encapsulate' is to cover in such a way that whatever you're encapsulating stays where it is and doesn't get outside to affect anything else. Just a term I learned in lead mitigation class. Lead paint in older homes can be encapsulated by another coat of paint and doesn't have to be removed to be safe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top