explain how this works - electrical

Hey, I was skimming over this, maybe I need to read it a little more clearly because I don't understand how it works.
http://www.motogadget.com/us/frameset.html go to products m-unit

Basically a control unit for your electrical, BUT it eliminates all fuses and relays? How is this possible? or did I read it wrong, and you need an additional fuseblock?

like- compact, has flasher and modulators built in, individual led's show which circuit is bad





• complete digital push button control unit
• Complete replacement of all OEM fuses. Eight independent circuits are digitally supervised. A
circuit will be shut down in case of interference. After removing the interference the circuit will
be switched on automatically.
• Integrated, digital, load-independent flasher relay with programmable switch off feature
• Integrated digital brake-light modulator with programmable flashing sequence
• Integrated starter relay (up to 40A current flow)
• Intelligent control and shut-down of single loads; i.e. switch headlight off during cranking to
use maximum battery power.
• Control of head light’s low beam and high beam with only one push button
• Integrated digital horn relay
• Integrated alarm system
• Integrated hazard light feature
• Internal LED provides the status of vehicles electrical system at a glance – easy trouble
shooting.
• Easy setup by a temporary push button

pelican said:

Hey, I was skimming over this, maybe I need to read it a little more clearly because I don't understand how it works.
http://www.motogadget.com/us/frameset.html go to products m-unit

Basically a control unit for your electrical, BUT it eliminates all fuses and relays? How is this possible? or did I read it wrong, and you need an additional fuseblock?

like- compact, has flasher and modulators built in, individual led's show which circuit is bad

Click to expand...

No magic, just good design, but it doesn't eliminate the wiring, there are still switches with individual wires going to the horn button, starter switch, dip switch... To get rid of fuses, all they need is a means to measure current and shut off the circuit if it goes over a set value. After seeing one of their gauges, I have no doubt it is well made, overkill, but well made overkill.

Jean

So the downside is it shuts a system off, and you may have to re-wire or change a connector instead of just replacing a fuse? Not very good on the side of the road

At €249=$348 USD, I'll stick with conventional fusing. A 4 or 6 circuit fuse block with ATC or Mini fuses looks and works well for a whole lot less.

well yes, but when you figure in the price of the fuseblock -good one $60 centech or eastern beaver, 3 or 4 or 5 relays (the micro ones around $10 each), flasher unit for led's are normally $50-75, modulators are usually around $50, cheap alarm system, etc... it's just a little more cost, but less mess, room, and connections everywhere are good also... is 209e minus the VAT for US customers, so $290

Its very similar to Thunderhearts Micro Harness unit I got fro ~ $300 to remove as much clutter from Ms Peel as practical. These component box have internal relays and usually a couple or more of circuit breakers instead of fuses. They are more robust being mostly solid state and potted inside compared to separated items with their terminals. I like the labels and bells and whistles on this German version but may be too big for my image of the perfect road going gal of mine.

Now where will you mount the black box and the surrounding wiring?

Only thing simpler is plain ole Lucas set up that runs full load current through each switch. Works a charm until things get a few decades old like terminals, wires and charger magnets. With the extra complexity of relays you can run further and brighter on a bit less or no battery and extrend service life of kill button to hi beam toggle. ok Lucas police harness in street bikes don't count as so simple.

The only way I would get this is if I could run my turn signals as running lights, but I don't think that's possible with their microprocessor. Also the alarm system built in doesn't allow use of the centerstand.

Hobot, I think it is only 4" x 2.5"


you should see the micro relay they make... 1.9 cm x 1.9 cm

Ok slackjawseabird, I suspect this M-unit can work signals as running lights that pulse for turns. Ping em and ask. ThunderHeart regular harness box is almost identical in size and configuration, definitely advertises running lights/signals for about same cost. So does ThunderHearts micro harness box, with plug is ~4 x 4 x 1" size. I'll have to mount it about 1/3 way back in the rear frame loop. The small relays may be needed as only room to stick em is withing the space of spinal tube and side tubes or head light and maybe in front of frame.

Basically digital box has all the wiring form switches going into it to then works its relays to feed switching power to relays that carry the real current to power lights and such. I hope to adapt the starter circuit for Peel air compressor.

Still wondering if just adding relays to Lucas system is more compact/practical. This is what I did with last Ms Peel - I may not have room for a tool kit unless pocket size as all space covered by side covers is to remain just space.

yeah man, space is a big issue on my mk3. Once you put the solenoid, regulator, and the battery in not much space left.
I've been making this bracket for about 2 weeks (lol) to mount stuff to. Bolts to the air filter location and contours with the battery tray

Pelican, your efforts are not wasted on me, appreciate seeing what you came up with. Hope you have dreamed up all the in the way stuff to work around and provide for all that's planned long term. Will it get covered up so know one can tell?

yeah, I'm going to mount everything behind the bracket, plan it out, and then paint it black. There's about a 1/4" between the top of the bracket and the bottom of my air filter. Hopefully the vibrations won't make them touch. About a 1/4" between the diagonal sides and the frame to allow some air. I'm worried about stress fracture as it's aluminum. May have to make an L- bracket for extra support to the battery tray.

Ok, trying to conceal yout efforts are ya, painting it black even, huh.
Only way to know if holds up is test to destruction eh.
Should move with whole power unit and not bang the filter but may have to rubber buffer it or modify if it does. Does it carry battery mass too? Cushion that with a pad to help the shock fatigue factor. Could even corner fill spots with JBWeld after roughing up so JBW can grip and deaden the vibes in the fancy piece.

pelican said:

I'm worried about stress fracture as it's aluminum.

Click to expand...

Steel is much less prone to fractures, and it looks like you have crack lines along your bend lines as a result of folding Pelican. Commando vibes find every weakness - sooner rather than later!

Shoosh, he'll find out and so will we. But hey practice makes perfect in the end.
Could drill it out some decoratively too. I'm on you side Pelican, having drilled out battery box some much I had to add a welding rod to stiffen up an edge, nullifying about a row of drill holes : )

We all should have a wife and a mistress, one treated like last factory model left the other what ever you can get away with time and time again.

hobot

hobot said:

Shoosh, he'll find out and so will we. But hey practice makes perfect in the end.

Click to expand...

Always learning Hobot, always.

hobot said:

We all should have a wife and a mistress, one treated like last factory model left the other what ever you can get away with time and time again.

Click to expand...

Just thinking something along those lines, my Bessy sure is an expensive mistress. Last couple of weeks she's been treated to carby parts, new twistgrip and rearsets. I have had to supplement this last item with a new (original) rear brake switch to suit. Add to that I dropped my tacho for repairs this morning that's going to cost somewhere between $0 and $120 (no surprises for guessing which end of the scale it'll be). I've kep all my receipts since I started this rebuild but I'm dead scared to total them all up. Better not complain, I could have run her out of oil on the weekend!

Hmm. Does it ever reach a point when it was better than when it left the factory or is it always just a game of catchup?

Oops. Sorry to derail your thread Pelican, I'll get out of here now.

davamb said:

Hmm. Does it ever reach a point when it was better than when it left the factory or is it always just a game of catchup?

Click to expand...

It's like life. A constant journey of punishment and reward.

Mine has reached a point where I now may even consider some paint and stuff rather than concentrating on how she goes, stops and handles. I can't think of much else to do to it, practically speaking. It is absolutely gorgeous to ride and I can't get on it enough.

davamb said:

Sorry to derail your thread Pelican, I'll get out of here now.

Click to expand...

It's ok man, I like hearing about other people's projects too :lol:

Well I started out with steel, but it was too heavy. I didn't weigh it exactly, but it was heavier than the 2 side covers +some so I switched to aluminum. I saw the lines, while bending one side stretched, and the other side crinkled a little. Or may be where I scribed the dimension with my calipers. I may look into welding or some kind of filler before paint just to be sure. Like you guys said, you have to try to experiment. Either way, at least I have a drawing now to use as a template in case it does break.


that m-unit also says you can take the elec start lead off the battery and insert it directly to the box.

A fully fettered Commando is possible, even I had one, totally reliable one kick starts. But just before I was ready to drop the Drouin on it, a stuck throttle over rev event took the good out of the engine power curve, so back to square one and about total removal of anything really Norton. I also had a bone stock Combat that
I may keep in the end as so pleasant and easy to operate and order stuff for and quick capable for good road thrills, just not wining elite sports bike games.

ok, here's the panel mocked up


I sent them an email with some questions
Yes, you can run the turn signals as running lights. Additionally you can adjust the brightness from 10% up to 50% of the turn signal brightness.
You have to install a switch for the hazard lights, but they will run even with the bike off in case you break down and have to leave your bike.

The headlight is programmed to come on after the ignition starts. How can you get around this to keep the ignition on/ ignition on w/ lights? or are you reduced to an on/off ignition switch?

Just wire it like they say and keep the headlight switch in the headlight shell connected. Key on headlight off or key on with headlight, duh. You are using a
relay to run hi loads light aren't ya. Great features to entertain a long time, cool.
I've had too many times broke down at night using LED tail light to alert my position. For days on end via 1.2 ah battery I'd slip in back pocket to carry to
charger at rallys, when power got used up d/t electrical gremlins.

BTW now I see where you Al sculpture goes I like it even better.