Exhaust clamping

DogT · May 29, 2011

The old steel ones will bend and look like crap. I got some new bronze ones from Walridge and they have 3 larger tabs around the edge and you can always hook the tool over one of them, they will not bend or break. When you tighten with a extension bar, you just have to be careful and remember how you are multiplying the force, you can feel how tight it is, don't be a gorilla.

I have an old mainshaft out of a P/U manual trans and sometimes I put that on the larger tabs and whack it with the hammer too if I can't find someone to help me.

I'll look into those Suzuki washers too.

Dave
69S

pete.v · May 29, 2011

maylar said:
Suzuki p/n 14181-01D00. It's the only crush washer I'll use.

Same here. I use the 850 nuts on the 750 head and these fill and seal the gap.

Rich_j · May 29, 2011

That's really weird, I use 750 nuts on an 850 head. The 750's are longer (and prettier) better with 750 style unbalanced pipes which I also use.

DogT · May 29, 2011

I have to agree, the 850 (reverse) nuts look like too much bling for me, but then I've got those finned rocker covers.

Dave
69S

Don Tovey · May 30, 2011

Hi,
I have the Bronze exhaust nuts on mine & like most others say here, tighten them up when the engine is at full working temperature. I always do that & mine dont seem to come loose at all.
When out on branch rides mine gets a lot of wellie up to 6000 rpm & its all nice & tight.
cheers

Hobot · May 30, 2011

Phil Radford, Norton Parts Expert Extraordinaire, owner of Fair Spares America, Inc., says...

GET IT TIGHT!
Phil demonstrates the permanent answer to Exhaust Port Thread Destruction Disorder (aka: EPTDD...I just made that up). The only way to prevent your exhaust nuts from loosening & destroying the threads is to tighten them...BIG TIME! Phil's formula: Take it for a ride & get it hot. Then get one of these long-handled exhaust spanners & tighten the crap out them! As tight as you can get them. The threads are huge, so they can handle it.

way more in here
http://www.classic-british-motorcycles. ... parts.html

Are you man enough to get er done!

Torontonian · May 30, 2011

Permatex Ultra Copper on the threads . Drive. Retighten hot. Stand on the special tool if U have to .TIGHT. No lock tabs ,no safety wire,no more issues. Done, Finito, end of story. One nice product.

davamb · May 30, 2011

Phil Radford said:
GET IT TIGHT!

I think I'm picking up a consistent theme here.

hobot said:
Are you man enough to get er done!

What? Have I got a big enought tool?

Nope. Not that big anyways.

ando · May 30, 2011

Without doubt the best way to stop the exhaust nuts from undoing is to wrap several layers of PTFE (teflon) tape around the threads and then screw them in. You must wrap the tape the right way or it will peel off as you screw them in. ie spin the nut onto the tape in the direction that you screw it in. If the nut screws in too easy just add a bit more tape until the nut is a firm fit in the thread. You will not have to do the nuts up overtight as the nuts will not shake loose, even if only done up hand tight, provided you have the correct amount of tape on the thread. Teflon tape is used by plumbers to seal water and gas pipe threads and is available from hardware or plumbers supplies.

davamb · May 31, 2011

How's it go with the temperatures associated with the exhaust port Ando? No worries?

ando · May 31, 2011

The teflon tape is completely unaffected by temperature. Unthreading the exhaust nuts is just as easy as tightening them. I have been using teflon tape on my Norton for over 30 years and have not had the the nuts come lose during that time. I recently replaced my exhaust system and undid the nuts for the first time in about 5 years. They were little more than hand tight, just as I tightened them years ago.

davamb · May 31, 2011

Thanks Ando. I will give that a go. Something about hanging off the clamp with huge amounts of leverage just seems a bit ... I dunno. Yeah, I know, it's what they were designed to take, but if there's another way of doing it with less force and more finesse then it's worth consideration.

splatt · May 31, 2011

davamb said:
Thanks Ando. I will give that a go. Something about hanging off the clamp with huge amounts of leverage just seems a bit ... I dunno. Yeah, I know, it's what they were designed to take, but if there's another way of doing it with less force and more finesse then it's worth consideration.

The PTFE tape, nickle antisieze etc, are all helping reduce the friction on the threads when tightening, a good idea. A 2'' unf bolt is ,roughly, tightened to over 2000lbft, 500lbft for an aluminium block would be safe, so if the threads are good in the head it should easily hold 100lbft, the nuts should start distorting before it strips. I personaly tighten while running at 3000rpm with a 600mm bar.

Exhaust clamping

Similar threads