The tools needed are not that expensive but say I didn't want to wait for them to be purchased online and shipped. I wanted to at least remove the engine this weekend but I don't have the clutch compressor or sprocket puller for the primary. Anyone have a creative solution to removing the clutch and crank sprocket or is it best to be patient and aquire the proper tools?
Engine rebuild DIY tools
- Thread starter ernest
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2009
- Messages
- 11,527
ernest said:
There are several posts about the clutch. Search "tuna". :mrgreen:
ernest said:
I removed the crank sprocket with a the rocker spindle / points slide hammer working both sides in turns. I also removed a rotten clutch the way it's strictly verboten without the compressor - I wiggled the big circlip out using a looooong lever and - standing next to the "line of fire" - caught the big spring in a basket. This clutch was very rusty so it just needed to get out of the way....
Tim
batrider
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2008
- Messages
- 2,380
Ha ha! I just made another tuna can clutch spring tool for old times sake. (Tuna can - washed out - with 1/2" hole in the bottom center) The bolt is 1/2" - 20 (UNF) by about 3" long - fully threaded. The real factory tool has the end of the bolt drilled out for the clutch pushrod which is a nice feature. You don't have to pull it out and then have the lever on the other side drop down out of position.
You can also make the engine sprocket puller. This was a must for me. The sprocket is on a taper so it is not the easiest thing to get off.
You can also make the engine sprocket puller. This was a must for me. The sprocket is on a taper so it is not the easiest thing to get off.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
I did a couple engines w/o the Norton tools but it was
more strain. Now I've the whole kit.
If ya like ping me to send what ever out for months as a time for just
cost to ship back and forth.
There may be rounding off or just plain orphan size nuts
that SAE - Metric or Whitworth just can grip but a adjustable
or Metriwrench type sockets/end wrench works a treat on.
Chisel clamp bearing race puller needed for Superblend do up.
Dial gage and calipers real handy pretty darn often.
1.5" end-box wrench can work the LH primary spocket nut.
Impact long socket can too or make or have made and
pipe with socket welding on.
Dental picks both hooked and slightly bent will find
lots of uses.
Hand hammer impact tool also worth is cost even if
just for that one slot head crank case screw.
Red and Blue grade Loctite and Blue Racer's Hi Temp Hylomar
sealer-glue'r for everything head to ignition leads sealing.
Chisel and drifts for buggered nuts or to pry out
rear drum peened in bearing seal.
Spiritual path or chemical mind relaxers to get though
learning curve with minimal trauma.
hobot
more strain. Now I've the whole kit.
If ya like ping me to send what ever out for months as a time for just
cost to ship back and forth.
There may be rounding off or just plain orphan size nuts
that SAE - Metric or Whitworth just can grip but a adjustable
or Metriwrench type sockets/end wrench works a treat on.
Chisel clamp bearing race puller needed for Superblend do up.
Dial gage and calipers real handy pretty darn often.
1.5" end-box wrench can work the LH primary spocket nut.
Impact long socket can too or make or have made and
pipe with socket welding on.
Dental picks both hooked and slightly bent will find
lots of uses.
Hand hammer impact tool also worth is cost even if
just for that one slot head crank case screw.
Red and Blue grade Loctite and Blue Racer's Hi Temp Hylomar
sealer-glue'r for everything head to ignition leads sealing.
Chisel and drifts for buggered nuts or to pry out
rear drum peened in bearing seal.
Spiritual path or chemical mind relaxers to get though
learning curve with minimal trauma.
hobot
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2009
- Messages
- 11,527
hobot said:
Do you keep those in your regular tool box or do they get a special one? :mrgreen:
Ron L
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,240
Tuna can, kitchen sink strainer, 4 inch cast iron pipe cap, there are many ways to make an emergency clutch spring compressor.
Tim, your a better man than I to pull the engine sprocket with a little slide hammer!
However, a steering wheel puller, commonly available at most any auto parts store works well. You can also make one from a piece of flat steel at least 1/2" thick. Drill holes for the long 5/16-24 bolts that thread into the sprocket and drill and tap the center hole for a 1/2 inch bolt (or use a nut under the plate). You may still need a couple good whacks with a punch and hammer to break the taper while under tension, but it will pop off. I have had some that took heat, a puller, and a couple sharp whacks to let go.
Tim, your a better man than I to pull the engine sprocket with a little slide hammer!
However, a steering wheel puller, commonly available at most any auto parts store works well. You can also make one from a piece of flat steel at least 1/2" thick. Drill holes for the long 5/16-24 bolts that thread into the sprocket and drill and tap the center hole for a 1/2 inch bolt (or use a nut under the plate). You may still need a couple good whacks with a punch and hammer to break the taper while under tension, but it will pop off. I have had some that took heat, a puller, and a couple sharp whacks to let go.
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2009
- Messages
- 128
I took two of the four studs that go from the crankcase to the stator mounts out and screwed the studs into the threaded holes on the drive sprocket and used a piece of angle iron that I had made for a clutch removal tool and used that. I just use that angle iron and a 3/4 inch section of 4inch PVC pipe to compress the clutch. ....Works......
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2008
- Messages
- 1,607
I made ring compressors from a couple of big hose clamps and 2 - 1" strips of aluminum sheet - about 20 gage. I had the stuff in my garage junk drawer. Clutch tool is a 3" PVC end cap - also from the junk drawer. Only had to buy a nut and bolt for that one.
Ron L said:
I have to admit that the three bikes were in a pretty run-down state and I have not tried that method on a newly installed sprocket. The only reason for trying this was that the bikes were in a shed a few miles from home and I forgot both the sprocket extractor and the clutch compressor.....
Tim
Heres my home made clutch Tool. Ive stamped on it what its for just in case I fall off my perch and the kids dont know what it is!
Ludwigs tool is interesting, would kill a roo at ten paces if thrown hard and accurate enough,would make a good kids Shanghi.
Nup, got me beat??
Rgds Foxy
Ludwigs tool is interesting, would kill a roo at ten paces if thrown hard and accurate enough,would make a good kids Shanghi.
Nup, got me beat??
Rgds Foxy
I was hoping to put together a tuna can compressor today so I could tackle the primary side. I found the tuna can easily enough, its the UNF threaded bolts I am having difficulty sourcing. I looked at the local home centers and hardware stores without any luck. Suggestion for sourcing both 5/16 & 1/2 fully threaded, tap bolts, would be would appreciated? If I could do it locally, even better!
Getting the countershaft sprocket nut off is do-able in many ways. Torquing it to spec on the other hand is a differant question. This remedied both on and off issue. A real bonus is an electric impact.
Autozone or Advance Auto sell a 1 1/2" deep socket for $9.99. But they are not deep enough. I bought 2 and cut them with a chop saw to make 1 superdooper deep socket. Ground them to as square as needed and put a big chamfer to fill with weld. The $89(sale price) 120v Flux wire welder from Harbor Freight is just enough for motorcycle stuff.
Autozone or Advance Auto sell a 1 1/2" deep socket for $9.99. But they are not deep enough. I bought 2 and cut them with a chop saw to make 1 superdooper deep socket. Ground them to as square as needed and put a big chamfer to fill with weld. The $89(sale price) 120v Flux wire welder from Harbor Freight is just enough for motorcycle stuff.
- Status
