(engine) grounding question - 74 Mk2

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i agree - definitely no argument here. my thought process - it appears the lucas harness is two, parallel, 18 awg wires. if i'm not mistaken, current capacity of two 18's is the approximate equivalent of one 14 - ??? :)

Doubling the circular mill area is equivalent to 3 AWG sizes - so two 18's is the same as one 15.
 
Interesting to find this topic today, as I just fitted my Dave Taylor head steady and was wondering about the engine earth last night in the shed. My DT steady has recessed bolts so I can't fit the original ring terminal earth wires as they were with the stock steady. Is the inlet valve cover stud a good alternative?

I've got 3-phase alternator, Podtronics Reg/Rec, Boyer ign, and a Dyna single coil, on the original positive earth system.
 
Interesting to find this topic today, as I just fitted my Dave Taylor head steady and was wondering about the engine earth last night in the shed. My DT steady has recessed bolts so I can't fit the original ring terminal earth wires as they were with the stock steady. Is the inlet valve cover stud a good alternative?

(engine) grounding question - 74 Mk2

Or....
I believe the threaded holes for the suspensory spring bracket there even if it's the version without the spring assembly.
(engine) grounding question - 74 Mk2
 
I've got 3-phase alternator, Podtronics Reg/Rec, Boyer ign, and a Dyna single coil, on the original positive earth system.

Although, thinking about it, as it has a Boyer ignition and dual coil unless it's an 850 Mk3 then it probably doesn't need an engine 'ground'.
 
Although, thinking about it, as it has a Boyer ignition and dual coil unless it's an 850 Mk3 then it probably doesn't need an engine 'ground'.

Only because it is a dual coil do I agree with this...and the MKIII has the huge starter ground.
The only ground, if not the red engine wire, is the clutch cable.
clutch cable goes to the handle bars which gets it's ground from the headlight bucket red or through the steering ball bearings.
While the boyer box gets it red ground return locally, the spark plugs return path is through the engine if grounded...
Rubber mounted shocks, rubber engine ISO, throttle and choke cables through plastic splitters.
In 2004 daytona, I had to carry my friend to the local flea market where he could buy a new analog boyer to replace the one that died during the ride. We discovered he had no engine ground... none.

Even a dropped plug wire (on a dual coil) that does not arc to engine ground can do the same thing.

Granted a casual intermittent ground can be found but occasional failure to allow a spark return is eventually deadly for the black box due to reflected spark back through the coil secondary then to the primary back to the output transistor. Seen this several times, even with an o-scope on my distributor machine...killed the boyer-dead.
For this reason I never check coils with an E-I. I always use points and they don't die if the spark fails to fire across the variable gap.
 
the aftermarket head steady's are thick enough to drill and tap for a stand alone ground

(engine) grounding question - 74 Mk2
 
Only because it is a dual coil do I agree with this..

Precisely, and why I stressed dual coil (italics).
For single coils, points or even a Tri-spark Classic Twin (as the module has a 'ground' wire) then an 'engine ground' would be required.
 
I generally recommend taping the head ground wire up to the harness and installing a new ground wire from one of the oil filter mounting bolts up to the battery ground at the back of the battery box.

There is a lot less movement at the rear of the engine cradle so the ground wire is less likely to break like the ground on the headsteady does -if you put a lot of miles on.
 
Even with a Dual coil I would fit a good earth, you never know if you or the next owner is going to fit two 6V coils and then be left wondering why its not running or not running well. Either you forget or the next owner does not realise the earth was left off due to the dual coil being fitted. A self made DPO inducing moment.
 
Besides the ground at the headsteady, I put a ring terminal on the lowest horizontal crankcase/cradle bolt and ran the wire back to the rectifier mounting bolt. It just makes sense to have an extra ground on a rubber mounted engine...
 
I also always use a ground wire. Unless you are using an electric starter the wire only needs to be very small gauge as the current is tiny.

Unless your plugs fire at exactly the same voltage with a twin lead coil there is going to be a voltage present on the engine. They will never fire at the same voltage because only one cylinder is on compression. Without a ground wire that means currant is going to go to ground through the next available path. That is likely to be the clutch cable. The current is very low so damage is unlikely other than possibly encouraging corrosion.

If you are using a hydraulic clutch and no other engine ground you will get a surprise when you touch the engine.:)
 
Unless your plugs fire at exactly the same voltage with a twin lead coil there is going to be a voltage present on the engine. They will never fire at the same voltage because only one cylinder is on compression. Without a ground wire that means currant is going to go to ground through the next available path. That is likely to be the clutch cable. The current is very low so damage is unlikely other than possibly encouraging corrosion.

As I understand it, the high voltage winding of dual coils has no connection to the bike's electrical system. The HT circuit is from the coil to one plug then to the other across the head then through the other plug back to the coil, one plug sparking positive and the other negative, as the coil HT wires are opposite ends of the same length of wire.
 
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As I understand it, the high voltage winding of dual coils has no connection to the bike's electrical system. The HT circuit is from the coil to one plug then to the other across the head then through the other plug back to the coil, one plug sparking positive and the other negative, as the coil HT wires are opposite ends of the same length of wire.

Yes it works as you describe. The plug firing at the top of exhaust basically at atmosphere is aroud 2-3KV and the balance of coils output is across the cylinder under compression and can run typically 7 to 10KV or more depending on throttle opening (pressure). On the following cylinder they switch function back and forth from low volts wasted spark to high volts ignition spark. Correct... the polarity however, does not change.
 
As I understand it, the high voltage winding of dual coils has no connection to the bike's electrical system. The HT circuit is from the coil to one plug then to the other across the head then through the other plug back to the coil, one plug sparking positive and the other negative, as the coil HT wires are opposite ends of the same length of wire.

This is true, but if there is say 10,000 volts across the plug under compression then there will only be a couple thousand volts across the plug which is not under compression.

That means the cylinder head will be at 8000 volts potential -in comparison to ground.

And yes, not all twin lead coils are referenced to ground -but some are.

I know that when using an ARD mag with it's twin lead coil on my racebike with a hydraulic clutch and a plastic throttle housing there must have been some reference to ground in the coil, it gave me a good surprise.

PS, in this instance when I installed the engine ground it also cured a missfire problem I had been looking for...
 
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