Engine but no frame

Has @Fritzer_108 ever said what he wants to do with the finished product? Road race? Street tracker? Cruiser? Scrambler? Just a decent looking bitsa? Something to keep or something to sell? Maybe narrowing down the options would result in more useful discussion.
 
acotrel said:
The Seeley frames were way ahead of anything else in the 1960s. People who believe in featherbed frames are kidding themselves. I have ridden an original Manx and my Seeley - I know which handles better. A really good guy on a Manx might be somewhere near me in a race, but never in front.
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You're 80 something right? Does kryptonite slow you down at all?
 
acotrel said:
I built a Tribsa using an A10 BSA frame and a 650 Triumph engine. There eas a tank mount which hangs down from a top rube on the frame. It stabilises the tank. I think I removed it. My Tribsa had 1963 Triumph fork yokes and it's handling was better than my 500cc Triton which replaced it. One of my mates also built a similar Tribsa, but used the BSA A10 fork yokes - it scared him shitless. It did it's antics at about 70 MPH.

Not because I own one, if you are serious about road racing, a Mk3 Seeley frame is the best way to go. It is the lightest while still being strong. A unit Triumph frame might not have enough room, and a BSA A10 frame is heavier. I followed my Seeley frame for about 2 years before I tacked it down and bought it. But I could not get the Laverda 750 motor it was housing when I raced agaisnt it. It had taught me a lesson about handling when the idiot who was riding it crashed me. What he did was impossible with any Triton or Manx. He rode around me in a high speed corner then braked in front of me. My drum brake tossed me.
The Seeley frames were way ahead of anything else in the 1960s. People who believe in featherbed frames are kidding themselves. I have ridden an original Manx and my Seeley - I know which handles better. A really good guy on a Manx might be somewhere near me in a race, but never in front.
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Norton Seeley Commando – Worth Motorcycle Company

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A half decent guy on a Manx will lap YOUR Seeley after 3 laps
 
Schwany said:
Not on fantasy island where dreams come true. ;)

My apologies to the OP for going way off track into the gravel.
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Ha no worries.


There's an A10 frame and a swingarm near me for $500 but no front end or title. The tirle i can work around, but I'm curious if a set of norton roadholders could be transplanted. I've got spare set with the triple trees and stem.
 
Fritzer_108 said:
There's an A10 frame and a swingarm near me for $500 but no front end or title. The tirle i can work around, but I'm curious if a set of norton roadholders could be transplanted. I've got spare set with the triple trees and stem.
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Before investing time and money on this, do your homework. Ensure you get a desirable value for trail. Ensure the drive train can be made to line up.

- Knut
 
Fritzer_108 said:
Ha no worries.


There's an A10 frame and a swingarm near me for $500 but no front end or title. The tirle i can work around, but I'm curious if a set of norton roadholders could be transplanted. I've got spare set with the triple trees and stem.
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Don't let Knut scare you off. He's right, of course, but none of these potential issues are insurmountable if you are determined and either have or are willing to acquire the skills needed to make it happen. Also, there is a wealth of knowledge over here, a lot of people have experience doing all kinds of things with motorcycles. Read around and you'll soon figure out who might be able to help you.
 
Any Triumph 650 fork yokes post 1962 up to the 70s should work well. I think most British bikes had 38mm staunchions. Your problem might be in finding enough room for the engine and gearbox. I cut full circle engine plates for my Tribsa. It was a tight fit, but it all worked really well. I think it had 19 inch wheels. If you use 18 inch, it might handle a bit more stable.
 
acotrel said:
Any Triumph 650 fork yokes post 1962 up to the 70s should work well. I think most British bikes had 38mm staunchions. Your problem might be in finding enough room for the engine and gearbox. I cut full circle engine plates for my Tribsa. It was a tight fit, but it all worked really well. I think it had 19 inch wheels. If you use 18 inch, it might handle a bit more stable.
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Can't think of any British bikes 38mm stanchions?
I'm happy to do proven wrong though
 
I just noted that inch and a half is 38.1mm. All my bikes have gaiters so I cannot just whip the vernier on them!
 
Onder said:
I just noted that inch and a half is 38.1mm. All my bikes have gaiters so I cannot just whip the vernier on them!
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The reason I ask is I've never seen a British bike with an inch and half forks
I've seen loads with 1 3/8" or 34.925 mm
 
I thought the closest mm size of most british fork tubes was 36mm? I bought a set of Ceriani triples off of eBay a few years ago that were being sold because somebody had bored them to 37mm and they didn't fit british forks anymore.
 
Fritzer_108 said:
The engine is from a 1962 88 SS. I have had no luck locating a featherbed frame, aside from buying a repro. I also have access to some pre-OIF unit Triumph frames.
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I am assuming you are in America, I am in the UK and have a very nice wideline frame with paperwork that needs to be sold.
 
baz said:
The reason I ask is I've never seen a British bike with an inch and half forks
I've seen loads with 1 3/8" or 34.925 mm
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triumph T140 are 34.5mm Ceriani and the like are 35mm. can be a pain.
 
Late Rickman Betors were 38mm nothing else. 34.5mm Norton Triumph etc.
 
35mm is what I meant, of course. Old Harley Sportsters (pre-Evo) are 35mm, too.
 
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