Electronic instruments

Yes, it is set for "ticking". Hopefully I won't ride into a parked car while looking at the cool tachometer action!

Dakota Digital also makes electronic speedometers and tachometers that are interesting. I used one of their 4" combined units on my project bike. The speed and odometer readings are indicated in digital LED numbers. The tach can either be a moving horizontal bar at bottom or numeric. The gauge does so many things that it boggles the mind.
For example
It will measure quarter mile elapsed times
It will measure zero to sixty MPH elapsed times
It will record highest rpm reached each outing
It will record highest speed attained each outing
It also has the following functions:
left and right turn indicator warning lights
low oil warning light (oil tank sensor required)
gear indicator lighted LED, no sensor required
low voltage warning light
shift warning light (green) and high rpm warning light (red)
check engine warning light
high beam indicator light
auto night dimming
can be calibrated to GPS indicated true speed

All of the functioning above including on the fly calibration of the speedo portion, are done from a single small button that protrudes thru the face
Pretty amazing, but not stock looking so ideal for a custom bike.

Glen

I spoke to the Smiths man at the April Classic Bike Show. When I asked about how to re set the trip, he said it wasn't straightforward. When I pulled a face he said they were considering putting a button in the place of the now redundant bulb hole. When they get around to this, I will treat myself to a pair of these otherwise very nice clocks.

Nice looking Vinnie - Is it a Shadow or a tricked out Rapide?

worntorn said:

I got one of their electronic "chronometric" tachos. no complaints and it looks great alongside a real Chronometric 5 inch 150 MPH.

Glen

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It's a Rapide set up at about Shadow tune level or a bit above, and built for riding. It is no show Queen, but is a very good runner.
The tach is now working, Tom Kullen (Smiths USA) helped me get it sorted, good guy.
Glen

Well I got the new electronic clocks fitted. Quite a big job really, but not so bad once I'd got my brain in gear, cleared some time, shipped out the Missus and kids for the day, etc.

They are very nice clocks after all, I am pleased to say! It's quite a novelty having very precise needles on a Brit bike, where usually one has to take an average reading from the swinging needle!

It's nice having an accurate and steady tacho too, especially when trying to evaluate a new motor. It is now very clear that my old tacho was not accurate. It was OK at low revs, but then read low as the revs rose.

All in all, Im really pleased with the new clocks.

worntorn said:

It's a Rapide set up at about Shadow tune level or a bit above, and built for riding. It is no show Queen, but is a very good runner.
The tach is now working, Tom Kullen (Smiths USA) helped me get it sorted, good guy.
Glen

Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliments. Vincent looks awesome! I've sold quite a lot of gauges and occasionally will get a tech call and it is generally something simple. So far, I haven't had any issues with the gauges themselves. They go through a double inspection over in the UK before I even receive them and so far so good. I am compiling a list of some of the common mistakes in setting them up and will eventually post them to the website. Meanwhile, I have been working with Jim on a sending unit which I'm hoping to see at Miller next weekend.(No pressure Jim :wink: ) I have a 3D laser scanner that takes the part I want to reproduce and puts it in a format that greatly reduces the CNC programming time. In this case the rear axle sender will look similar in size and shape to the original Smiths rear axle drive except the sender wires (black sheathed) will come out of the center so it will actually be easier to run along the swingarm and blend in better. This will eliminate the last mechanical part that can fail for those wanting to maintain a more stock look. I'll also be testing the new self powered race tach on my racebike. I was hoping to have 6 but it looks like I'll only have my test unit. If everything goes as planned, I hope to have a bunch made before Barber. I will have a decent inventory of gauges at the Bonneville Vintage GP next weekend at Miller. http://www.bonnevillevintagegp.com Jim is hoping to make it and Ken will be there after his speed attempt on the salt, which I hear is drying out after the SCTA cancellation. Kenny Cummins is also registered to race and I know of a couple others so there should be a decent Norton showing. I'll be in the AHRMA tech garages GP16-17 so stop by and say hello. Also pitted there will be the Champagne Racing Teams quiver of Norton Manxes. Not sure if Nobby Clark will be their mechanic again but it sure is great being able to talk to him as he has a lot of sage advise. Well time to go get some new race rubber on the Norton. Hope to see you there!

Cheers,

Tom Kullen
Event Coordinator
Bonneville Vintage GP
AHRMA 44x
Formula 750/BEARS
2010 AHRMA Sportsman of the Year
801.557.4255-cell/text
tom@bonnevillevintagegp.com
http://www.bonnevillevintagegp.com
http://www.smithsgaugesusa.com

Matchless said:

I spoke to the Smiths man at the April Classic Bike Show. When I asked about how to re set the trip, he said it wasn't straightforward. When I pulled a face he said they were considering putting a button in the place of the now redundant bulb hole. When they get around to this, I will treat myself to a pair of these otherwise very nice clocks.

Click to expand...

Buy a button switch at Radio Shack, hook up per instructions, find a place to locate it (mine is in a headlight shell hole), quite EASY to reset trip meter on speedo.
Once you figure out your range per tank, you now have a substitute gas gauge!

Thought I'd post a pic of the clocks. You might notice my LED battery status monitor located in place of the original steering lock. This allowed me to use a plain headlamp shell devoid of lights, switches etc. it all adds to the cleaner look I was aiming for IMHO.

Looks like you have fitted the Landsdown cartridges?

They are my next upgrade, can you tell us how you like them and how different they are?

1up3down said:

Looks like you have fitted the Landsdown cartridges?

They are my next upgrade, can you tell us how you like them and how different they are?

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Yes I have 1up. I haven't done many miles yet and haven't done any really fast riding yet either.

I fitted these as part of the overall rebuild, so a number of things changed at the same time. In regards to suspension, I fitted the Landsdowne kit and Falcon racing rear shocks.

The forks do feel better though, the stock ones 'dived' too much / too easily for my liking, and I know from my own experience that just putting thicker oil in stock forks doesn't really work.

These feel firmer, without feeling hard. There is a noticeable feeling of better damping taking place. I fitted them at the recommended 'starter' settings and haven't fiddled with them yet.

I kept the stock springs.

For the money, I think they are a no brainer. They dropped straight in too, no fuss at all.

Today I rode my Commando in the dark for the first time since fitting the electronic clocks...

The tacho illumination only comes on when the engine is running! Its not a problem, when you know that's how it is...

I just wondered if this is how they are intended to be, or is it a result of my wiring ?!?

If it is the same wiring as my Smiths electronic chrono lookalike then this is the result of your wiring. The wiring for the tacho includes a feed for tach power(hook to load side of ignition switch,but use 3 amp fuse inline) , an impulse feed,(hook to negative side of coil etc) and a feed for the tach light.

If you hook the feed for the tach light to the load side of your headlight switch,( use another 3 amp inline fuse to protect tach light circuit), then the tach light will only come on when the headlight is on.
And normally it should not matter whether the engine is running or not, if the headlight is on, tach light should be on. If the tach light feed is instead joined with the main tach feed and connected to the load side of the ignition switch, then it should light up whenever the ignition is switched on, engine running or not.
Glen

worntorn said:

If it is the same wiring as my Smiths electronic chrono lookalike then this is the result of your wiring. The wiring for the tacho includes a feed for tach power(hook to load side of ignition switch,but use 3 amp fuse inline) , an impulse feed,(hook to negative side of coil etc) and a feed for the tach light.

If you hook the feed for the tach light to the load side of your headlight switch,( use another 3 amp inline fuse to protect tach light circuit), then the tach light will only come on when the headlight is on.

Glen

Click to expand...

I need to have a closer look tomorrow it seems. The power feed and light circuit feeds come from the same source for both speedo and tacho... Speedo illumination comes on with the light switch, but tacho only when engine is running... Will report back what I find, if I find anything!

Strange!

Hi, just to add my experience with Smiths electronic tacho, I had a problem with it ( the needle was stopped at 5000 rpm), so I just send it back to Andover where Simon was of a great help , I must thank him for his very good cooperation!
the tacho is back , just need to test it on the bike and hope all is OK now, again good service from the supplier AN and Smiths.
ps : I had bought it march this year , but could only ride the bike in August........

Just received my electronic Tachometer Smiths NVT logo from Andover. 1976 MK111 Norton. How do I hook it up electrically ? Red/Blue-bands, switched side of coil a headscratcher. More questions on speedometer hookup if and when it's delivered.

I bought my gauges from Tom Kullen cuz my original clocks gave up the ghost.
I used the button for the what I think was a starter button for the set up and it switches the odometer to the trip meter.
To program the speedo I just followed the instructions for DTS, Drive To Set.
I had my son mark off 1 mile by setting his odometer to 0, road 1 mile and stopped. I was right behind him. Hit my button and it was set. Easy Peasy.

My first set would fog up when in the sun to the point you couldn't see anything. Tom exchanged them and now they are fine.
Great Guy. I met him at the last Clubman Bike Show in San Jose

Wiring these clocks up is a bit daunting, especially if (like me) you're not a wiring expert.

It was a surprisingly big job to do in my opinion, but, by following the instructions I did it without any great fuss and they both worked 'right first time'.

My only minor 'issue' is the tacho doesn't illuminate until the engine is running (as discussed previously in this old thread) but even that's not really an issue, not much need to look at engine revs if the engine isn't running!

I once thought my tachometer was on the blink, but it turned out to be a nice 'early warning' of a poor electrical connection in the ignition circuit!

Update: just received my E- Speedometer from Andover. They are assembling another order of the bits and pieces that will make the 2 units (Speedo and Tach) actually work. Instructions are baffling. Any help appreciated Re: wiring and setup. Someone said I must use sealed bearings for the MK 111 rear wheel to make it all work , so I will need guidance for sure. :shock:

The instructions seems daunting because it looks like a big job, especially compared to the simplicity of fitting a stock mechanical job.

But if you work through the instructions step by step I'm sure you'll find it quite straightforward.