difficult shifting MK3

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seattle##gs

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R&R the entire primary side. Did not ride the bike previously. Shifting is really tough, I suspect the clutch plates are not separating completely (bronze plates).
Everything went together well. Is there some odd problem that could arise in the crossover shift linkage? Something binding?
 
seattle##gs said:
Is there some odd problem that could arise in the crossover shift linkage?
Click to expand...
It can wear which does cause problems. Not only does the small bush in the outer cover wear but the spines into the connector don't appear to be hardened so they wear. The connector may also need replacing.

Andover Norton - BUSH - GEAR CHANGE CROSS-SHAFT - 06.5185

BUSH - GEAR CHANGE CROSS-SHAFT
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CROSS SHAFT - 06.6187

CROSS SHAFT
andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CONNECTOR - GEARCHANGE CROSS-SHAFT - 06.5607

CONNECTOR - GEARCHANGE CROSS-SHAFT
andover-norton.co.uk

It's possible the pawl carrier may also need to be replaced.

Andover Norton - PAWL CARRIER ASSEMBLY (WITH PAWL & CIRCLIP) - 06.5216

PAWL CARRIER ASSEMBLY (WITH PAWL & CIRCLIP)
andover-norton.co.uk
Maybe also the pedal shaft bush but that doesn't seem to wear as badly.

Andover Norton - BUSH - PEDAL SHAFT - 06.6189

BUSH - PEDAL SHAFT
andover-norton.co.uk

Some kind previous owner/mechanic had epoxied the connector parts together on my Mk3 which took a blowtorch to separate.
 
Last edited:
Check how much slack there is in the mechanism by lifting the gearchange pedal in neutral. More than about 1/2" of free movement then the mechanism probably needs to be inspected.
difficult shifting MK3
 
seattle##gs said:
R&R the entire primary side. Did not ride the bike previously. Shifting is really tough, I suspect the clutch plates are not separating completely (bronze plates).
Everything went together well. Is there some odd problem that could arise in the crossover shift linkage? Something binding?
Click to expand...
Shift the bike through the gears when spinning the rear wheel and hand shifting without the engine running. The shaft and splines can develop slop at each junction. But the bikes all have some pedal play. Clean the whole clutch side and clutch drum and put in a set of Barnet plates. I send directions with the ones I sell and can send sets with altered stack heights , + 040 seems to be very popular
 
All above comments are good . I'd add a mainshaft tip oil seal to prevent gearbox oil from entering the primary . I had developed shifting issues too on my MK111 until hearing somewhere that the neutral button on the camplate develops a rough slot in itself over time and should be replaced with the new type , including switch .
Exploring the issue I found the cross shaft splines had developed a twist . Yes the shaft should be a hardened steel . Good luck .
 
When I put everything back together I did not clean off the plates which is most likely the problem. The job was to replace all seals and gaskets in the primary area...mission accomplished. Usually I clean off the plates as part of the job but not this time. I replaced the oil with #40 non detergent because that is what I had. Any recommendations as to oil weight? I would generally use #30, I think #20 would be too thin because of the chain tensioner.
 
Carl H said:
Shift the bike through the gears when spinning the rear wheel and hand shifting without the engine running. The shaft and splines can develop slop at each junction. But the bikes all have some pedal play. Clean the whole clutch side and clutch drum and put in a set of Barnet plates. I send directions with the ones I sell and can send sets with altered stack heights , + 040 seems to be very popular
Click to expand...
You sell parts?
 
I run 5W -50 W. Synthetic in the primary . Never an issue with the original bronze plates dragging or sticking .
The whole bike uses synthetic oils now , as things have settled in for quite a while now .
 


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