Detent plunger housing...>
- Thread starter ommief
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drones76 said:
Yep, got that. What I'm looking to do is pull that housing and inspect my spring and plunger. How much disassembly do I have to do to get at that housing to put a wrench or socket on it?
Is access on the bottom of the gearbox itself, on the inner cover? Diagram does not show how to get at that housing. I'm hoping I don't have to actually pull the inner cover to get at it.
BTW, once I've dealt with this shifting issue and we've moved, the bike will be living out in the western mountains, Brevard. Have you had your Norton up on the Blue Ridge Parkway?
ommief said:
STOP! You don't have to take anything apart. It screws in from the bottom of the gearbox shell. When inspecting the plunger, look for a nice conical shaped end on the plunger. If it is rounded appreciatively, then it should be replace. You can get used ones in good shape for pennies from Old Britts. A fresh spring is also advisable.
It is misleading that they show it, and the camplate, on the inner cover diagram.
Guido
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I took mine out and the spring was broken.
I went to my local True Value hrdwr store and bought a spring and then to the Napa Auto for a copper washer.
Repair was about $3.00.
It is I think a 15mm socket to remove it.
Get a drain pan ready as it will empty the trans when removed
I went to my local True Value hrdwr store and bought a spring and then to the Napa Auto for a copper washer.
Repair was about $3.00.
It is I think a 15mm socket to remove it.
Get a drain pan ready as it will empty the trans when removed
Great, thanks guys. That's what I suspected as the OldBritts diagrams show pics of the camplate in the gearbox shell and the only logical place the detent housing
could be would be on the bottom of the shell. If you don't mind me asking, what were your symptoms? My symptom is that my upshifts appear to shift past the notch in the camplate
putting me in a false neutral. A quick downshift and I'm into the gear I was expecting. I ordered the spring and have it in hand. I'm thinking I should have ordered the plunger as well.
I'll know more after the inspection. Thanks again! Tom
could be would be on the bottom of the shell. If you don't mind me asking, what were your symptoms? My symptom is that my upshifts appear to shift past the notch in the camplate
putting me in a false neutral. A quick downshift and I'm into the gear I was expecting. I ordered the spring and have it in hand. I'm thinking I should have ordered the plunger as well.
I'll know more after the inspection. Thanks again! Tom
ommief said:
Compare your old and new spring heights, a little can mean a lot. The detents are mighty hard yet they will wear down. You can easily run with the new spring until the new detent come in, if you even need one.
For me, I was popping out of first under load. The new spring and detent cured it. Even now with added HP's and lower gearing, there is no popping out. At first I looked into the relationship between the first and second layshaft gear dogs, but they are as they were. Many people will go to extremes overlooking this basic componant of the detent spring.
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Any time the gearbox is apart it's well worth polishing the selecter plate edge which the sprung plunger runs on - helps toward a smooth gear change action at the lever.
I think the gear pinion dogs do the work to keep the box in gear, the plunger is more of a lever stop/locator. I don't think the plunger spring is capable of resisting 50+ BHP - although that's not a direct force acting on the spring.
I think the gear pinion dogs do the work to keep the box in gear, the plunger is more of a lever stop/locator. I don't think the plunger spring is capable of resisting 50+ BHP - although that's not a direct force acting on the spring.
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