Degree Wheel

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Deets55

Deets55

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This spring when I clean my clutch plates I want to check my timing with a degree wheel. I bought a 7" wheel that has a small hole for the center bolt. That will let me drill it to the size I need. My question is do I need to remove the alternator nut and fit the wheel under that or is there a way to use a short bolt and catch some of the exposed threads on the alternator nut. If I can use a short bolt does anyone know what the bolt specs would be.
Comnoz this part might be for you, but any one is welcome to contribute. I saw in a previous thread you recommend to remove the piston stop before rotating the engine. Is that for oversize valves or all valves. I will be using an all brass Crane stop with a hole down the center and no lock nuts.

Thanks,
Pete
 
When you say "alternator nut", I assume you mean "rotor nut".

Not sure how your rotor nut is, but I have a Cdo rotor nut that has a long "sleeve" which will catch threads inside the hub of the rotor. Such a nut will easily hold the degree wheel. The rotor must have a bore to accommodate the sleeve.

Slick
 
I just used one of those neodymium super magnets and stuck the degree wheel to the rotor nut. They are really strong.
 
batrider said:
I just used one of those neodymium super magnets and stuck the degree wheel to the rotor nut. They are really strong.
Click to expand...

There you go! Problem solved.
 
Dyno made and gave me one of his degree adaptors that replaces the big rotor nut then had smaller inside threads to hold the wheel. What i ended up doing when I couldn't find in shed clutter was using a supermagnet to hold the wheel on then short tedium to get it centered. and indexed to TDC/0'. I used another magnet to hole indicator wire in place - then did the timing task and also graphed cam profile per crank degree to verify cam installed. When I did a leak down test I was able to get ~ perfect TDC that held pressure w/o any torque on crank that showed my wheel TDC was off 1'. Engine would suddenly try turn hard moving either side to this.

Degree Wheel
 
I used the drum sander from my Dremel kit. I replaced the shaft with a #6 screw long enough to leave threads exposed for some nuts to hold the degree wheel. When the rubber is compressed it swells and holds it in position. My degree wheel is plastic, so no magnets.
 
Just got back from what might the last ride for a while, snows a comin'.
Thanks for the idea's. Degree wheel is aluminum, but a super magnet might still hold it on. I just found a picture I took with my primary cover off. It looks like I have about 3/8" of exposed internal thread on the rotor nut. If I can find out the size and pitch I think I can get a piece of all thread in there and use a nut to hold the wheel in place, or use that expanding rubber trick Rich mentioned. Got all winter to think about it.
For any one who celebrates it. Have a Happy Thanksgiving. For those who don't, your missing a good day of (American) football and feasting.
Pete
 
Deets55 said:
Degree wheel is aluminum, but a super magnet might still hold it on.
Click to expand...

Blu Tack it! :)
(or whatever it's called in the US).

http://www.blutack.com/

Degree Wheel


Edit: A couple of comments expressed on another forum it appears one or two people are perhaps under the impression that Blu-Tack is some kind of "sticky paper" which it isn't (that's the backing paper)!
Degree Wheel
 
batrider said:
I just used one of those neodymium super magnets and stuck the degree wheel to the rotor nut. They are really strong.
Click to expand...


I do this to and it works a treat.
The bluetac idea may work by any remaining oil could mean problems with it remaining attached.
I don't see the point of removing rotor nut to fit an adapter type nut. Its just more work and will need re torquing or rotor nut plus locite or anti loosening type washer (or both) so if its secure leave it alone.
 
L.A.B. said:
Deets55 said:
Degree wheel is aluminum, but a super magnet might still hold it on.
Click to expand...

Blu Tack it! :)
(or whatever it's called in the US).
Click to expand...

With an aluminum or plastic wheel, don't even bother. Just hold the wheel up to the nut, and slap the magnet on top. Assuming it's one of those rare-earth types, it'll sandwich the wheel between the nut and magnet.

Nathan
 
Deets55 said:
Comnoz this part might be for you, but any one is welcome to contribute. I saw in a previous thread you recommend to remove the piston stop before rotating the engine. Is that for oversize valves or all valves. I will be using an all brass Crane stop with a hole down the center and no lock nuts.

Thanks,
Pete
Click to expand...

I would remove the piston stop before rotating the engine with stock valves also. It might clear but better safe than sorry. jim
 
A decent magnet will send flux through Al thickness of a degree wheel to pinch clamp it from outside against the crank end nut, not to attract the wheel. It was stable enough for me a bunch of times, if not too clumsy around it.
 
Why bother. Blu tac, you might as we hold it with your hands. magnet, much the same.


I suppose you guys motors will turn over like a roller. Put a full glass of water on the head and not spill a drop. Oh and you wont have to rev it to keep it going. You got to be kidding.

If its not locked to the crank solidly, its not going to be accurate.


Have fun. I'm Laughing
 
Put pressure in jug and see if it balances w/o moving off TDC to know the facts for sure.
 
kerinorton said:
Why bother. Blu tac, you might as we hold it with your hands. magnet, much the same.


I suppose you guys motors will turn over like a roller. Put a full glass of water on the head and not spill a drop. Oh and you wont have to rev it to keep it going. You got to be kidding.

If its not locked to the crank solidly, its not going to be accurate.


Have fun. I'm Laughing
Click to expand...

I don't do it with engine running. Just to set engine up.
Of course it doesn't vibrate when running Norton's don't do that do they :wink:

'S
 
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